Help please - Lift challenge - UCA, shock, coil install

[colacola]

Installing 2.5” lift. Loosened kdss valves 3 rotation and LC is on 4 jackstands. Rear install of shocks/coils/airbags went fine. Using OTRAMM video as my guide but encountering problem up front getting ball joint loose from upper spindle. (Circled in red blow). Nut came off fine but not able to to break uca from spindle loose with hammer. Hit it with sledge hammer also fairly solid but dont want to f this up guessing my next move. Tried to remove the steering arm like shown in Project 200 video, nut comes off but cant break arm free (circled in yellow below). Went bak to OTRAMM video, followed his instructions including the points to loosen sway bar, but now sway bar has rotated upward, preventing any shot of getting arm off (circled in green below). Southern LC200 with 70k miles no rust. Never had problems getting anything loose - appreciate the help.

 

[bloc]

You shouldn’t need to separate the tie rod end ball joint.

For the upper knuckle ball joint I found a 2-arm pitman puller extremely useful. I’ll get the brand and model number when I get home later.

You can loosen the sway bar bracket bolts that hold it up against the frame for more wiggle room. Pull one bolt all the way out before loosening any others to see how far you can go while keeping some threads engaged to simplify retightening. Also if your drivers side sway bar link is disconnected it makes dealing with the passenger side easier.

Wait til you need to reconnect the passenger side.. it’s a pain in the ass. Large pry bar on top of the sway bar prying down against the frame is the ticket there.. as well as jacking under the arm to reduce the misalignment of the link bushing.

 

[colacola]

You shouldn’t need to separate the tie rod end ball joint.

For the upper knuckle ball joint I found a 2-arm pitman puller extremely useful. I’ll get the brand and model number when I get home later.

You can loosen the sway bar bracket bolts that hold it up against the frame for more wiggle room. Pull one bolt all the way out before loosening any others to see how far you can go while keeping some threads engaged to simplify retightening. Also if your drivers side sway bar link is disconnected it makes dealing with the passenger side easier.

Wait til you need to reconnect the passenger side.. it’s a pain in the ass. Large pry bar on top of the sway bar prying down against the frame is the ticket there.. as well as jacking under the arm to reduce the misalignment of the link bushing.

Thanks man. I got the ball joint/uca loose on drivers side no problem, went back to passenger side and it came loose with a light tap - hilarious I couldnt even get it with sledge hammer earlier. Appreciate the advice on sway bar with pry bar - I loosened the 4 mount bolts earlier. I will button the tie rod ends back up - thank you!

 

[bloc]

Thanks man. I got the ball joint/uca loose on drivers side no problem, went back to passenger side and it came loose with a light tap - hilarious I couldnt even get it with sledge hammer earlier. Appreciate the advice on sway bar with pry bar - I loosened the 4 mount bolts earlier. I will button the tie rod ends back up - thank you!

One more thought.. when removing the strut assemblies I don’t separate the upper ball joint. I’ve found if I leave that and the TRE in place I can loosen the large lower ball joint “bridge” bolts, loosen the LCA pivot bolts, remove the sway bar link bolts, remove the lower strut bolt, and just swing the LCA down and out of the way. Then the strut just lowers right out the bottom. With stock UCAs they even hold the arm and knuckle up and out of the way as long as I leave the pivot bolt tight. With aftermarket upper arms and their freer bushings I have to hang the knuckle off one of the screw holes in the upper wheel well.

At this point I only loosen the upper ball joint if I’m changing upper arms or CVs.

 

[BVE]

With 2.5“ of lift you’re most likely going to need aftermarket UCAs as well. Hate for you to wrestle with all this to have a messed up alignment.

 

[bloc]

Evertough 67025 is the perfect-sized tool for our upper ball joints. I've never liked hammering on the knuckle to release them as in my head it can lead to wear on the ball joint.

And BVE is correct about the arms.

 

[colacola]

With 2.5“ of lift you’re most likely going to need aftermarket UCAs as well. Hate for you to wrestle with all this to have a messed up alignment.

Ive got Dobinson uca’s to install- cant get the 555s pressed though. Took em to a shop and even with a hydraulic press they couldnt get em in.

 

[doru]

If the pros also failed maybe is time to talk to Dobison. This particular UCA may be a bit off. Maybe they can send a replacement.

 

[colacola]

If the pros also failed maybe is time to talk to Dobison. This particular UCA may be a bit off. Maybe they can send a replacement.

Agree. Mechanic told me the must not be machined to spec

 

[colacola]

I got it in. Put ball joint in freezer overnight. Last night “sanded” the s*** out of inside of UCA where ball joint seats. This morning heated that area of uca with some heat, ball joint pressed in fairly easy with at-home c-clamp kit. Lessen here is never order uca without ball joints already pressed. Either this one was out of spec or they must grind all the interior powder coat and then some - when they press em.

 

[doru]

Powder coating inside? What kind of quality control do they have?! There should never be paint let alone powder coating between the two. It is a press fitting.