hoser
SILVER Star
I think you can save even more money by just capping it off. You're in Phoenix, you don't even need heat!
lol!
Help please: Easiest way to remove the heater tees
- Thread starter AFei
- Start date
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lol!
- Thread starter
- #22
The truth about Phoenix: The air temperature could drop 80 degrees only driving 3 hours north...
- Thread starter
- #23
Everything heater tees connected was replaced with new parts, under $40:
- 6 hoses
- 2 SS tees
- 1 5/8" brass barb
- 18 worm driven SS clamps with non-perforated rolled-up bands
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
OE plastic last a LONG time in these rigs. More than a few people have had issues with the metal t's and hose clamps leaking. Granted one failure can be more catastrophic than the other.
- Thread starter
- #25
The OE plastic did last LONG in most cases, but it DID ruined some engines including mine, before I got this LX.
The metal Tees most people uses are the "Four Seasons 84543" I believe, which doesn't looks like an ideal one. First, it's not designed for LC/LX, and fitting size is about 2mm smaller than OE, which also restrict the follow. When comparing the 84543 side by side with the SS one I got, mine is much heavier with more metal and it's welded. I wish I have taken the picture with both side by side but I immediately returned the 84543.
For the clamp, I couldn't agree more that the traditional worm drive clamp sucks and it's easily cut into the hose. However, this issue can be avoided by the other type of worm drive clamp with non-perforated rolled-up bands. It doesn't damage the hose.
Besides of the cost, another reason I didn't use the OE clamp is that the OD of the Gates hose might not be the same as the OE hoses. Also, I found it's easier to work on the worm drive clam in that small places than the spring clamp.
Will see how it last...
What is the brass barb for? How did you use 18 clamps?
I would get a different T or hose or both if I had to clamp the hose like this.
View attachment 3670806
Everything heater tees connected was replaced with new parts, under $40:
Not very beautiful but definitely more reliable then the OE plastic...
- 6 hoses
- 2 SS tees
- 1 5/8" brass barb
- 18 worm driven SS clamps with non-perforated rolled-up bands
I would get a different T or hose or both if I had to clamp the hose like this.
View attachment 3670806
I used these......
I use these too. They are also good for releasing electrical connectors and pulling spark plug cables on older cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #28
The reason why I double clamp the C hose is not because one clamp is not strong enough. The Tees just came with free clamps. Although it's the same type with non-perforated rolled-up bands, it doesn't looks like high quality one. So I just keep them there as cheap insurance.
IMHO, this SS Tees are really very high quality one, and it's not the same one from eBay. The hose I used are Gates heater hose, and seems also high quality.
The inlet C hose is kinds of S shape. Other people cut if from Gates 18622. However, 18622 is smaller ID hose (12mm vs 14.5mm). So I choose Gates 19082 (15mm ID) and cut 2 of roughly L shape hoses. Then connect with 5/8" brass barb to form the S shape. I know it adds another point of failure but I'm pretty confident that the brass barb connection should last forever. Will keep eyes on it.
So basically, I used 7 hoses instead of 6, which needs 14 clamps. I also double clamp the both side of the 2 C hoses which add another 4 clamps. So 18 clamps.
I agree it's not as pretty as the OE setup, except for the Tee itself, which I think the SS tee looks much more beautiful than the OE plastic one. However, believe I over engineered it and hope it could last forever.
This sounds like you got the wrong size T.
hoser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
The size of the T is exact same as the OE plastic: 17mm x 17mm x 14mm. It's just the hose I couldn't find a similar shape one from Gates, so had to make one by connecting 2 hoses with the brass bed
- Thread starter
- #32
Great info! Seems I ignored another function of spring clamp, the constant torque...
Guess I'm going to replace all of them with the spring one. My next door ACE carries the spring clamp which I believe is about 80 cents each. Will go check with them.
Good news is that it still has the distilled water in the system and I will need to do one more rinse before filling in the pink water. So, no waste of coolant...
hoser
SILVER Star
@AFei Well, if you decide to change your hose clamps into constant tension clamps, the issue is.... your set-up is all piecemeal'd together. The specified "Toyota" clamps might not work with your combination of hose diameter, density, etc. Are those Gates hoses "stiffer" than the OE hoses? I would probably suggest buying an assortment of spring clamps... maybe like this:
Also, FYI, for future use, instead of that three piece "S" hose you have, there is an old trick for classic cars for shaping hose (when no OE hose is available).
Also, FYI, for future use, instead of that three piece "S" hose you have, there is an old trick for classic cars for shaping hose (when no OE hose is available).
5/8" (15.875mm) hose into the 14mm end just doesn't sound right to me. That explains the gap showed in the picture.The size of the T is exact same as the OE plastic: 17mm x 17mm x 14mm. It's just the hose I couldn't find a similar shape one from Gates, so had to make one by connecting 2 hoses with the brass bed
- Thread starter
- #35
Great info. Thank you!
Wish I know it before so I could just make one.
The Gates hose is pretty much same as the OE.
The 5/8" hose are for A and B where the connector is 17mm. For the C the hose is 0.59" which is 15mm. The 3rd fitting of my Tee has a neck which is slightly larger at about 14.6mm, which I think is within the tolerance range of the hose ID.
However, I do agree this is not the ideal replacement, although it seems working just fine. I guess I will keep close eyes on it to monitor its condition.
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Just flagging for a fellow swamp-dweller that I’d be a little concerned about the compression of the hose closest to the driver’s side in the above pics. That interior diameter has to be dramatically pinched. Perhaps shorten a bit or swap just that one to OE? Or as said above, just skip the rear heat and run one to the other and skip the rear heat. No way you use it much here!
OP has a valid view of options but the group knowledge for using OEM on this forum is second to none. Go OEM. My first question would be 'how do you know the parts are legit stainless steel'? After working in aerospace mfg. for 15 years any stainless steel not from USA or EU is suspect (Boeing anyone?). Just to offer a contrarian view, the part shown appears to be made of carbon steel with a chrome-type finish and the weld is a 'mig' or 'arc' weld, not the 'heli-arc' (GTAW) normally used for smaller stainless steel fittings. Lots of vendors offer machined castings for this sort of application but it could be you have a custom-made part. If it ever corrodes inside, you won't know. Even if you test with a magnet, that tells you nothing. OEM clamps also don't damage hose connections like ASME/USA type ring clamps. To piggyback on other posts, OEM seems to last and fit well enough but then again, it could be OEM might not be available.
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