Help! Overheating after a water pump install (1 Viewer)

[Super77]

Did you ever overheat prior to installing a new water pump and thermostat? When you say you overheated after install, how long did it stay in the red and did you notice if the coolant / water boiled? How many miles are on the engine? Has the top end been rebuilt - if so, when?

It never boiled. I heard the belt screeching when the pump seized, drove/idled for about 10 min, but it was a 20 degree day and the needle never went above 3/4 - just about where it is now after the work.

225k miles, original top end AFAIK.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Temperature sender #182-12

 

[Super77]

View attachment 2900730
Temperature sender #182-12

Ah, figures that would be the one I crushed when the wrench slipped

[orders another one on Amazon]

At least they’re cheap and easy to find.

 

[avantcruise]

It never boiled. I heard the belt screeching when the pump seized, drove/idled for about 10 min, but it was a 20 degree day and the needle never went above 3/4 - just about where it is now after the work.

225k miles, original top end AFAIK.

That’s encouraging - it doesn’t sound like a new issue presenting (I was worried you might have blown a head gasket before fixing the initial issue).

A temp sender should be an easy install. If the head and / or thermostat housing isn’t as hot as the gauge says, that would be where I’d look.

 

[Super77]

That’s encouraging - it doesn’t sound like a new issue presenting (I was worried you might have blown a head gasket before fixing the initial issue).

A temp sender should be an easy install. If the head and / or thermostat housing isn’t as hot as the gauge says, that would be where I’d look.

I doubt it. I’m not getting the telltale coolant steam out of the exhaust. My last compression check about 1.5 years ago showed good in all holes except #6, where the tech suspected worn rings.

I’ve spot measured in about a dozen places all over the block after 20 min of idle, and in no place other than above the manifold (fuel rail area) does temp exceed 175F. Front end is 2’ in the air on jacks and the bubbles at the filler have diminished. Gauge continues to look like this:

I have a new sender and sensor on order.

Question: does the midpoint of the gauge range correspond roughly to a thermostat temp of 180F? And is that the presumed “normal” operating temp of a 3FE?

 

[pithicus]

Question: does the midpoint of the gauge range correspond roughly to a thermostat temp of 180F?

My 3f carb 70 series temp gauge sits exactly half way @ 190f
When I had a 180 t-stat it sat about the 1/3 mark.

 

[avantcruise]

My 3f carb 70 series temp gauge sits exactly half way @ 190f
When I had a 180 t-stat it sat about the 1/3 mark.

My 89’ 3FE is the same. 180 t-stat sat at 1/3 (it took forever to get there and my heater didn’t work as well as I liked - have a high-flow Griffin aluminum radiator so maybe that combo ran too cold?) but with a 190 t-stat it sits at the halfway point.

If memory serves, the 190 t-stat is the default t-stat / operating temperature.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I doubt it. I’m not getting the telltale coolant steam out of the exhaust. My last compression check about 1.5 years ago showed good in all holes except #6, where the tech suspected worn rings.

I’ve spot measured in about a dozen places all over the block after 20 min of idle, and in no place other than above the manifold (fuel rail area) does temp exceed 175F. Front end is 2’ in the air on jacks and the bubbles at the filler have diminished. Gauge continues to look like this:View attachment 2900781
I have a new sender and sensor on order.

Question: does the midpoint of the gauge range correspond roughly to a thermostat temp of 180F? And is that the presumed “normal” operating temp of a 3FE?

your AMAZON CHINA temp sensor is a un-reliable solution , your setting your self up to not be reading accurate again ,,,,,,,,,,




perhaps a DENSO JAPAN gauges sender and new oem yazaki positive grip detent ball locking terminal is your path to a better end job scope repair ?

​

 

[Gretsch]

OEM for the win!!! The Amazon part might be the the key to this whole thing. I would be curious what your readings would be with the old sender in there. Might rule out/prove this being faulty sender. Willing to try that OP?

 

[Super77]

OEM for the win!!! The Amazon part might be the the key to this whole thing. I would be curious what your readings would be with the old sender in there. Might rule out/prove this being faulty sender. Willing to try that OP?

I’m ahead of you. Swapped out the Beck Arnley I bought on Amazon with whatever my local O’Reilly carries, as an experiment. Temp now sits at exactly the gauge midpoint at 175F on the tsat housing. 99% this was a sender issue.

I destroyed the old sender trying to unscrew it (was probably original) but with it installed my gauge always read at about 1/3.

 

[Super77]

Hey, just want to say thanks to the hive mind here. It’s rare for me to get a faulty sensor out of the box, but after swapping in a new one, the gauge sits perfectly at 50% fully warmed up. I did a triple flush on the system with distilled water and radiator cleaner until it ran clear, then new coolant. The coolant funnel kit turned fill and burp into a one-beer job. Definitely worth the $20!