Help Needed I.E. Rust...

[Mingus Dew]

Looks pretty good to me as someone that grew up in Ontario.

You can have the undercarriage dry ice blasted or have someone go through with a wire wheel and paint. Fluid Film or Woolwax application after that's done. Original coating should last you a while in the Pacific NW.

As others have said I would check the KDSS valve on the driver's side of the truck because significant corrosion can seize those bolts and then you are in for a major PITA if you ever want to do a lift or any suspension work.

Check to make sure that the spare tire mechanism also works and isn't seized from corrosion.

These trucks really like to rust in my (very limited) experience. My rig has lived it's whole life in South Florida and has rust on the welds in many spots. The hitch receiver was also quite rusty. Good not to get too obsessed with rust when you own one of these (trying to take my own advice).

Good luck!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Very clean vehicle. Zero concerns.

 

[sdnative]

You can have the undercarriage dry ice blasted

Does dry ice work on rust? I thought it was mainly for grease, oils and road grime kind of stuff.

 

[stonepa]

I wouldn’t do anything more than get it coated with a lanolin product every year, including inside the doors, fenders, rockers, and tailgate. Not hard, works great. No need to sandblast / ice blast/ whatever.

 

[AZLX570]

For real. The car already has 200k miles and looks that good with no undercoating. Undercoat it and maintain it every year or so and it'll easily get to 400K.

Even 400K is a crazy amount of miles. Not many people keep vehicles on the road anywhere near that. If you do, you will probably be doing (and have thought of) many more things other than just rust mitigation.

 

[Mingus Dew]

Does dry ice work on rust? I thought it was mainly for grease, oils and road grime kind of stuff.

For light surface rust it definitely works.

 

[LC Lurker]

Looks pretty dang good for a salt belt vehicle of that age.

I’d ask him what he did to protect it from rusting all these years (after you buy it lol).

Price seems high, but I’m no expert. I watch auctions on 200s and I’ve seen much better deals on late 2000s models. For example, there was an

- ‘09 with 82k miles that sold for $21k (light rust). This was an outlier I think, a steal and auction luck maybe

- ‘08 with 230k miles that sold for $15k (light-moderate rust, maybe slightly worse than the one you’re eying)

- ‘08 with 102k miles that sold for 23k (light rust, slightly lighter rust than the one you shared based on pics)

Personally I’d offer 15k to start, and wouldn’t budge past $17.5k. Be ready to leave the deal if anything doesn’t sit right. There’s other, non rust 200s out there if you’re willing to pay closer to $25k.

It’s a shame Toyota made these frames so susceptible rusting from road salt when everything else is damn near bullet proof. Achilles heel I guess. Rust is annoying to deal with, and I wouldn’t buy one with rust if I lived in a non-salt state. Just my two cents.

Edit: those auction examples I listed were all LXs. LCs probably go for a little more for whatever reason but keep that in mind.

 

[Heckraiser]

Not bad at all for a midwest truck. But I'd want to see photos of the bare iron bits of the AHC hardware to be sure. Honestly, I've seen many Western trucks that look worse.

 

[gaijin]

But I'd want to see photos of the bare iron bits of the AHC hardware to be sure.

The truck in question is a US-Spec LC200 - doubt you will find any AHC hardware to take a picture of...
HTH

 

[FxFormat]

I bought a 2015 with less miles for $3000 less. This seems expensive IMO

 

[Heckraiser]

The truck in question is a US-Spec LC200 - doubt you will find any AHC hardware to take a picture of...
HTH

Paying attention > me. However, same deal, I'd want to see the KDSS screws and the unpainted bits of the KDSS system.

 

[Supra Turbo]

I bought a 2015 with less miles for $3000 less. This seems expensive IMO

Different vehicle. The truck in discussion is an LC, not LX. The latter typically do sell for 10-20% less on a used market due to simple market supply and demand.

 

[GreatBenzini]

In the process of finalizing the purchase of a 2021 LC from California; service is up-to-date but this was the only thing I was uneasy about when reviewing the underbody pictures.

This doesn't seem as gnarly as some other's I've seen on here (like this), and don't expect anyone to comment with the protective shielding still installed, but I had two questions I was hoping to get some quick input on:

1. Can the KDSS valve body be dry ice blasted to remove the rust?
2. Can the KDSS valve body be, e.g., Fluid Film'd to prevent future rust?

Thanks in advance. Excited to become a more active member of this community.

 

[prharper]

In the process of finalizing the purchase of a 2021 LC from California; service is up-to-date but this was the only thing I was uneasy about when reviewing the underbody pictures.

This doesn't seem as gnarly as some other's I've seen on here (like this), and don't expect anyone to comment with the protective shielding still installed, but I had two questions I was hoping to get some quick input on:

1. Can the KDSS valve body be dry ice blasted to remove the rust?
2. Can the KDSS valve body be, e.g., Fluid Film'd to prevent future rust?

Thanks in advance. Excited to become a more active member of this community.

View attachment 4099867

That doesn't look bad and you have the 8 mm heads on the valves vs the hex screws that were prone to seize up and strip (prior to 2018). Not sure if it's worth the effort to dry ice blast. You can probably take a wire brush and remove the surface rust.

Yes, you should apply some a rust barrier to that surface and heads. It's the first thing I did on my 2018 LC. I smother it with thick red tacky grease which holds up well. BTW - I installed a new suspension over the weekend and had to loosen up those valves. After removing the grease, there is zero sign of rust on that face and bolts. Super easy to loosen.

 

[GreatBenzini]

That doesn't look bad and you have the 8 mm heads on the valves vs the hex screws that were prone to seize up and strip (prior to 2018). Not sure if it's worth the effort to dry ice blast. You can probably take a wire brush and remove the surface rust.

Yes, you should apply some a rust barrier to that surface and heads. It's the first thing I did on my 2018 LC. I smother it with thick red tacky grease which holds up well. BTW - I installed a new suspension over the weekend and had to loosen up those valves. After removing the grease, there is zero sign of rust on that face and bolts. Super easy to loosen.

Awesome (huge relief) and thanks for the quick response. Like you suggested, maybe a weekend, driveway project with some POR15 and a wire brush. I'm guessing since everything is so exposed (hence the rust problem), removing the shield doesn't demand high-level mechanic skill & tools? Vaguely recall reading that it's just 3 bolts and should come off.

And presuming this is a driveway project, just liberally lather on the marine grease (Lucas Oil blue from Home Depot, or anything better?) everywhere but on electrical connectors?

 

[prharper]

Awesome (huge relief) and thanks for the quick response. Like you suggested, maybe a weekend, driveway project with some POR15 and a wire brush. I'm guessing since everything is so exposed (hence the rust problem), removing the shield doesn't demand high-level mechanic skill & tools? Vaguely recall reading that it's just 3 bolts and should come off.

And presuming this is a driveway project, just liberally lather on the marine grease (Lucas Oil blue from Home Depot, or anything better?) everywhere but on electrical connectors?

That KDSS valve housing is literally the first thing that will rust regardless of where the truck lives. No electrical, it’s hydraulics. 3 bolts, I think 12mm. One bolt will need a socket extension. Smoother that face and 2 bolts w whatever thick grease you have. 5-10 min job.

 

[Zill]

Awesome (huge relief) and thanks for the quick response. Like you suggested, maybe a weekend, driveway project with some POR15 and a wire brush. I'm guessing since everything is so exposed (hence the rust problem), removing the shield doesn't demand high-level mechanic skill & tools? Vaguely recall reading that it's just 3 bolts and should come off.

And presuming this is a driveway project, just liberally lather on the marine grease (Lucas Oil blue from Home Depot, or anything better?) everywhere but on electrical connectors?

Do not use POR-15 on it since that will gum it up even further.

The shield comes off and is very easy to remove after taking off the bolts (to grease up the unit).

Just apply a heavy lather of marine grade grease and be done with it. The rust will stop in its tracks once you get that grease on there. No need to remove the existing rust as well.

Then put back on the shield and enjoy many years of service.

 

[GreatBenzini]

Do not use POR-15 on it since that will gum it up even further.

The shield comes off and is very easy to remove after taking off the bolts (to grease up the unit).

Just apply a heavy lather of marine grade grease and be done with it. The rust will stop in its tracks once you get that grease on there. No need to remove the existing rust as well.

Then put back on the shield and enjoy many years of service.

Appreciate the cautionary tale; certainly not looking to find ways to make it worse. Loaded questions (assuming it largely depends on environmental conditions you're facing), but how often does the marine grease need to be inspected/reapplied? I'll be in the Northeast and praying winters like we just had aren't going to be a new norm.

 

[Zill]

Appreciate the cautionary tale; certainly not looking to find ways to make it worse. Loaded questions (assuming it largely depends on environmental conditions you're facing), but how often does the marine grease need to be inspected/reapplied? I'll be in the Northeast and praying winters like we just had aren't going to be a new norm.

I’ve had it on my truck for 4 years now, and it’s still holding up great.

That cover absorbs most of the water wash impact, so in theory you really shouldn’t need to ever touch it, but it’s something you could inspect every year or two to be sure.

 

[Zill]

This is what I used. The marine grade grease helps it resist water wash off a bit better.

Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease w/Teflon 8oz | West Marine

Quicksilver 2-4-C marine grease with Teflon, 8oz tube. Multi-purpose marine lubricant for corrosion protection and smooth operation of boat parts.

www.westmarine.com