I would personally just slather a wad of grease on it every fall before the snow flies. As a New Yorker, you'll want to do annual woolwax/fluid film as well.
Help Needed I.E. Rust...
- Thread starter 100CRZR
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You can just paint the KDSS valve housing after you wire wheel the surface rust off and then not worry about it. That’s what I had done.
As others have said this housing rusts on every 200 basically. It’s ridiculous that Toyota left this part unpainted given you need to access the valve for any kind of suspension work.
Remove the tow hitch cover and you will probably see rust there as well. Ditto the spare tire mechanism (make sure that works before you buy).
As others have said this housing rusts on every 200 basically. It’s ridiculous that Toyota left this part unpainted given you need to access the valve for any kind of suspension work.
Remove the tow hitch cover and you will probably see rust there as well. Ditto the spare tire mechanism (make sure that works before you buy).
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Paint is not the route here unless you get everything to a bare metal surface. If you don’t, paint would just allow micro peeling to occur and water to ingress and rot it out from the inside.
Grease is naturally hydrophobic and expels the water and oxygen so the rust chemical reaction is completely stopped.
Well yes definitely don’t paint over the surface rust. You need to wire wheel to a bare metal surface and then paint.
You can still apply FF, marine grease, LPS3 or your grease of choice after the fact but in my opinion this is a part that should have been painted from the factory.
Sorry, but I've tried searching YouTube and forums for a clear video or images of where the shield bolts and can't find anything. Any guidance you could provide? Additionally, are these three bolts just bolts that screw into the frame (?) or do they have washers and nuts/bolts on the backside to anchor them to a mounting point?
Apologize but just want to know what I'm getting into and make sure I'm capable of correctly reinstalling (don't need the shield falling off on the highwawy) and not leaving any parts behind.
Just looked at this again and see the misunderstanding; I saw POR-15 has a rust remover product (here) and was planning to use that. Also saw some good things about Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver Gel Spray and Klean Strip Concrete & Metal Prep, but to make sure to completely clean after. If anyone has better recommendations to help cut down on the elbow grease, I'm appreciative & all ears.
Actually looking into Dinitrol underbody coating right now (more of a "set and forget" kinda person with this stuff). Found a few shops on Long Island & NYC-area that do it (Brick City Restoration, PLP Frameworks and American Tire), but, similarly, open to all suggestions if anyone's had a good experience somewhere.
Photo is from another KDSS thread, but I'm guessing the three bolts to remove the shield (appear to be P/N 91674-80818) are self tapping and do not paired with washers, nuts, etc. Would it be wise to pair it with a non-permanent thread locker (Loctite Blue?) or just tool tighten. Also looks like you can see two of three bolts (circled in yellow), so just curious if the third is equally visible.
Thanks in advance; sorry for churning activity on a commonly-covered topic
Thanks in advance; sorry for churning activity on a commonly-covered topic
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No need for loctite. Just get it good n’ tight when you’re putting the cover back on.
The bolts to take off the cover will be very easy to see when you get under there.