I'm looking at this 2008 in my area that lived most of it's life in the midwest: Ohio, Indiana. The seller is asking $21,950. Pacific Blue. 208K miles. Will you guys look at these photos and give your opinion as to how bad this is ? You can see the weld seams...
Help Needed I.E. Rust...
- Thread starter 100CRZR
- Start date
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None of that rust scares me... I've seen much worse, but I've also seen much better.
I won't reflect on price one way or another.
I won't reflect on price one way or another.
Surprisingly not too bad given age and location. Check out the hitch receiver. Also look at the KDSS valve on driver side.
Doesn't look too bad to my eyes (life-long New England-er) but I'd take some measures to stop it from getting out of hand. If you buy, get it coated, Woolwax seems to be the way to go, and proper prep is key.
Rust is acceptable but will need quite a bit of care. Frame welds can be rusty on even southern trucks.
I would look carefully for the source of the oily stuff under the right side of the engine and at the rear of the transfer case.
It’s missing the front engine under covers and may have an aftermarket transfer case skid.
Pacific blue is an epic color.
I would look carefully for the source of the oily stuff under the right side of the engine and at the rear of the transfer case.
It’s missing the front engine under covers and may have an aftermarket transfer case skid.
Pacific blue is an epic color.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks so much ! All great advice that I knew I would get here! I was really worried. Not so much anymore. I do plan a PPI for this truck. I'm thinking of offering 19-20K after the PPI? The ad does mention a Slee Skid Plate.
Here's the most recent work performed ( I copied and pasted from the ad) :191423 Miles --Synthetic Oil Service. 194296 Miles--Replaced Front Pads and Rotors, Replaced Rear Pads and Rotors, Replaced Rear Calipers Replaced Accessory Belt Tensioner and Accessory Belt. 195716 Miles-- Synthetic Oil Service. 200735-- Miles Synthetic Oil Service. Replaced Transfer Case Fluid Replaced Front and Rear Differential Fluid, Throttle Body and Fuel Injection Cleaned, Power Steering Fluid Flush- Brake Fluid Replacement. 205483-- Miles Synthetic Oil Service, Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets Replaced Oil Pan Gasket. New tires at 206K.
Seems like some good maintenance has been done.
Here's the most recent work performed ( I copied and pasted from the ad) :191423 Miles --Synthetic Oil Service. 194296 Miles--Replaced Front Pads and Rotors, Replaced Rear Pads and Rotors, Replaced Rear Calipers Replaced Accessory Belt Tensioner and Accessory Belt. 195716 Miles-- Synthetic Oil Service. 200735-- Miles Synthetic Oil Service. Replaced Transfer Case Fluid Replaced Front and Rear Differential Fluid, Throttle Body and Fuel Injection Cleaned, Power Steering Fluid Flush- Brake Fluid Replacement. 205483-- Miles Synthetic Oil Service, Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets Replaced Oil Pan Gasket. New tires at 206K.
Seems like some good maintenance has been done.
That’s pristine by northern MN standards!
When you negotiate, you can use the fact that it’s a Midwest vehicle that doesn’t look like it was ever coated.
- Thread starter
- #10
Is the maintenance on the existing rust with the Woolwax etc a pain in the ass to keep up with ?? Like, is it worth it to do all this upkeep ? Or does it make more sense to just wait and find another example with out this issue? Thanks again, it really is truly appreciated having you all to bounce this off of.
I assume salt is not used in your zip code? I think the rust treatment will be a one-time “pain in the ass”. It’s a big job, but IMHO, worth it if the rest of the vehicle checks out ok. The long term effect of the rust will be stuck fasteners, but you’ll have some of those on a 13 year old anyway. See if you can get a PPI from a shop that knows LCs, or at least the 5.7L/6 speed combo.
Looks fine (even good) for 200k miles but note that he probably removed the front skid plates unless it comes with those/took them off for pictures. In your first picture, the aluminum piece covering the transfer case is not OEM.
The skids are some of the first things to rust away.
The skids are some of the first things to rust away.
Since your in Oregon you won’t have to keep up on the woolwax other then touch ups. I would clean the underside real good. Wire brush any crusty spots and follow up with Eastwood rust encapsulator or similar product. Follow that up with 15-20 cans of woolwax and your frame will stay nice and clean. I’m in NY so I apply the woolwax annually in the driveway with ramps. A compressor and a spray gun will be even cheaper if you go that route with the woolwax.
If you do go ahead with this purchase, make sure you get a complete set of skid plates - either OEM or Slee would be OK, but if they are missing (as shown in the pictures) then it would be a relative pain to source replacements.
HTH
@100CRZR : the Woolwax application is kind of a one-time PITA. I used a shop that did a thorough rinse and Salts Gone, then letting it dry before undercoating. They can even handle some slightly more involved rust remediation. All-said, it was right about $1K but they were very thorough and Woolwax is a great product as confirmed by others here on 'Mud. They said touch-ups every 3-5 years is a good idea (depending on use) and run somewhere in the $300 range. To me, it's all a worthwhile expense to keep these rigs forever.
No way I would go 3-5 years before a touch up being from Boston. You also really wanna spray off the salt from the underside in the spring which takes down some of the woolwax. I would re-apply every year for about 3 years until you actually get a thick coating built up on the frame and components. Best to do a touch up in the Summer and take it for some miles on dirt roads. Any places with a high wash off will begin to rust especially bolts etc. Super easy to touch up the underside with aerosol cans of woolwax.
@psmura : much appreciated! I am keeping an eye on it and just going by what the guys told me. I plan to take it in this spring and get a touch up for sure. I wasn't aware that WoolWax also took the dirt road approach but will look into that.
Typically you want to hit the front end and behind the wheels where most of the road spray wears away the undercoating. I have used Krown and Fluid Film as well in the past but the Woolwax holds up much better on the underside. I still use fluid film under the hood and in the doors etc. where the wash off isn't a problem and has a better ability to creep. I had a 2018 Tacoma I bought new and had 5 winters with zero rust on the underside. I'll never drive another vehicle in the salt without Woolwax or FF. The wifes 2018 GX is still looking minty fresh as well.
Post up some full rig shots if you buy it! Good luck!