Help me pick a dry cut chop saw

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I just pulled the trigger on the Rage 2. I was gonna buy another abrasive saw, until i saw this. Didnt know i could get a affordable dry cut saw. Thanks for this thread.

BTW Amazon had it for $284, however shipping is 2-4 weeks even with a prime account

Also, how loud are these cutting compared to a abrasive saw?
 
I just got this Rage 2, http://www.discountsteel.com/items/Rage2_Metal_Cutting_Saw.cfm best price I could find anywhere. My buddy has one in his a fab shop and uses his every day, and loves it. He has a full fledged cold saw with cooling fluid and all, does not use it any more, he will use the Rage instead. I used his Rage 2 a few times in his shop and that sold me. I was saving up for a cold saw, and had full intention of buying a commercial one until I used His Rage 2. Will find out soon enough, have a cage to build as soon as it gets here.
 
I've had the Milwaukee saw for about four years now. Absolutely love it. I sold my jet horizontal bandsaw with auto feed and coolant (PITA). Lets just say I will never deal with a bandsaw again. I have used the same blade on aluminum, steel and stainless. Time saving per cut was why i bought it. Worth every penny.
 
I have a Rage 3. I think there is a review on here somewhere.

So far I've worn out 3 blades. I LOVE the ability to compound miter steel. And I LOVE the capacity. I can easily cut a 4x12" piece of steel on it. Not that I do, but it's possible. I use Oshlun steel specific blades. They are very hard to use to cut light weight materials. They tend to catch and end up making a mess out of small materials. Anything like 1/8" by 1/2" flatbar takes very careful cutting or swapping to the factory style blade. A better clamping mechanism might help with that.

Othwerwise it works pretty well.

I would really like to see a $500 version of the Rage 3 rather than the $200 version. If they spent a little more making it a really solid saw, it would be the ultimate metal cutting shop saw IMO.

If I had time and the need for one, I'd buy a Bosch "glider" 12" compound miter, then use some new pulleys to get the blade speed slowed down and make a metal cutting saw out of it. That would be an exceptional metal cutting saw for a small shop.

Of course if I had room and $ for it I'd have a Marvel 8 in my garage. IMO they are the Rolls Royce of metal cutting saws. I've never seen a better mid sized band saw. It'd be great if someone could make a little mini version of that.
 
A lot of metal material supplies and machine shops use a table saw for woodworking and replaces the wood blade for metal cutting blade.
 
A lot of metal material supplies and machine shops use a table saw for woodworking and replaces the wood blade for metal cutting blade.

I've thought about doing that. It seems really dangerous for some reason. Not sure why I think so, but it just seems like it would be. I have a Rockwell table saw that's belt drive, so a couple pulleys would get me the blade speed I would need.
 
I finally got the Evolution Rage 2. I Canceled my order since it was taking too long with Amazon. They finally had it in stock so i pulled the trigger on it again.

The freaking saw cuts like butter. I cut a bunch of 2x2x1/8" angle iron and it just zipped through it. Its loud, but not as bad as the Milwaukee and Dewalt abrasive chop saw i used to have and no smell. Plus it doesnt vibrate or trip my circuit breaker on a 15 amp breaker unlike my previous dewalt. Cutting stuff is effortless now.

The saw however throws chip front and back of the blade pretty far. ( not a biggie, except the stray chips that landed on the hood of my car) Overall i'm happy with smooth cutting, less noise and smell. Especially since i live in a town house.
 
My new toy...It's been a while since I started this thread so I thought I would give an update about where I am in this process. Shortly after posting my first thoughts on this thread, I almost pulled the trigger on the baileigh miter head bandsaw. The price was right, the specs would meet my needs, and it would fit in my garage. But something kept nagging at me. I was spending a bunch of money on a tool made it china. Now, don't get me wrong, I own my fair share of harbor freight tools, but usually nothing that I would cry over throwing in the trash if it broke or didn't do its job well.

So, back to the drawing board, I keep scouring craigslist, ebay, and auction/liquidation websites. Well, I finally found someone willing to part with an Ellis 1800 for....$500. I almost fell out of my chair and couldn't get on the phone quick enough. We exchanged some pics and settled on a date in late September to pick it up. Spent about $100 on a 16ft penske truck with a lift gate (since this thing weighs in at about 700 lbs) and drove 60 miles to go pick it up. Long story short, I arrive, check out the saw. The phrase, "rode hard and put away wet" comes to mind. this guy knew not a whole lot about this saw or just plain mechanics of a machine, which is scary considering since he had several cars in process of restoration behind him. The Ellis 1800 is a great miter head saw- but it's dry cut saw. Someone did not let this guy onto that and as I tried a couple of pieces of metal to test cut, he proceeded to dump about a quart of used motor oil all over the place. He said, "I'm hell on oil" whatever that means.

Summary: The blade was on backwards, cut awfully, couple of obviously exploded bearings, some missing bolts, and a terrible flat black paint job. Well, I decide that this thing was in rough shape, but parts were still available for it, it was american made, and I would probably never outgrow it. So, against my better judgment, I negotiated him down to $400 and threw it on the truck.

I brought it home and inside my garage, it looks like a big black metal horse just threw up in my house and pissed oil everywhere. I spend about 8 hours cleaning this thing up and putting it back in working order. The coating of oil over everything must have helped since every bolt turned with ease. I also called Ellis and ordered some spare parts. Then I started replacing some bearings. (I got about $100 worth of brand new sealed bearings from the PO, because he said that he thought it cut fine and didn't need to put them in)

Here's some pics after I cleaned up the mess and got this thing working again. I replaced 12 bearings in total, a new blade, chip brush, and a few misc bolts and knobs. I have to say that Ellis' customer service is one of the best I have used so far. I probably have called them at least 15 times, spent all kinds of time having them walk me through the disassembly/reassembly process, and tuning this thing. We finally got it to the point that the saw cuts almost dead on, but the blades keeps slipping off the drive wheel. So, after a bunch more phone calls, I decided to order a new drive wheel. They really tried hard to keep me from having to order a new one, since it's $150, but in the end we both agreed that there was no further adjustment that could be done and everything else was working as it should and in spec.

I'll update after I put on the new drive wheel. If it solves the problem, I'll pull everything apart again and paint this thing properly.

This is what my total cost should be.

Ellis 1800 Bandsaw = $400
Bearings, Blade, and Misc bits = $200
New Drive wheel = $150
Spray paint = $20
Penske Truck Rental = $100
TOTAL = $870

It's a bit more than I wanted to spend. I was budgeting $500-600 before, but if all works out well, I think I got a great saw that would be $3500 new and something that I'll be able to keep using for many more years to come. Enjoy the pics.




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Thought I would update my progress. I installed the new drive wheel, made one more tweak to the mounting position of the drive wheel on the shaft and blade now stays put. I did some more tuning and its great now. I think the degree wheel is off about a 1/2 degree, just need to bend pointer a little to make it accurate. Since this is my first big boy saw, I learned to use the down feed a little better and it cuts dead on now. Here's a pic of a 45 miter, before I noticed the scale being off a little bit. Gap is uniform around the joint, so it's just an issue of the degree wheel. Still happy with the purchase, just a bit more work than I anticipated. But now I don't want to take it apart and paint it since it dialed in now...

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