I “think” it’s a 4 speed but I can’t seem to match up the bolt holes on my ‘75 FJ40. Maybe I gave up too quickly. Your thoughts are welcome .
Help identify which style this skid plate is…. 3 speed or 4 speed (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter knuckle47
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Three speed. If the back two sets of holes for the revit and bolt match it for a four speed or five speed.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I know my 73 has four sets of fixed nuts on each side rail. Both fill three and four speed skid plates will bolt up. How long Toyota continued with four bolts not sure. If your 75 has four sets it will bolt up using the front three holes. How that will line up with the transmission and transfer I'm not sure.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you….there are 4 holes in the frame so I’ll get back under it again tomorrow and try to get it matched up. I do think though that the 1” 90* lip on the back is going to interfere with the transfer case… I’ll get back and confirm
That skid plate looks nothing like the one on my 01/72 build with floor shift 3-speed. The microfiche only shows three different p/n's for the FJ40 series for the period from 03/69 to 07/80.
- Thread starter
- #6
Hmmm… I didn’t have the greatest method of trying to line it up. My upper body strength wouldn’t engage as easily as I’d thought so tomorrow I’ll use a floor jack and position it better. It got heavy real quick after I didn’t get the holes lined up on the first tries.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
The part number that ends in 11 is the only one they show for a three speed. The one that ends in 30 is the four speed up to 1/79. 31 is 1/79-7/80 four speed. Change over from. Three speed to four speed depends on the market. US is seems to be 1/74. Some markets had the three speed thru the 82 model. The three part number for the three speed was still the one that ended in 11 1/75-1/79. 1/79-7/80 part number ended in 12.
Believe the skid plate on the left is 1/79-7/80. Center is 8/80+ four speed. Right skid plate is 10/82 on five speed. The holes for rivets and bolt all match.
What I have done is the past is put a box on one side on put one side of the skid plate on the box. Then go over to the other and left the skid and start a couple of boxes. I also have a Harbor Freight transmission scissor jack. Has it a long time, only only $40. Great for installing and removing Bull Bars, sliders, fuel tanks and skid plates.
- Thread starter
- #8
This is great information….thank you for setting this in motion. Going out there shortly to see where it lies… looks like mine is different…quite possible that the typical inward bow from it doing it’s job in a previous life is contributing to my mounting difficulty. Could be “hammer time”.
Unless there is a better way. I’m thinking my log splitter and its’ 50 ton hydraulic cylinder has a place in this
Unless there is a better way. I’m thinking my log splitter and its’ 50 ton hydraulic cylinder has a place in this
Back in 82 some of the plate nuts were bad that held up the skid plate. I tapped them all out to the next larger size then bought stainless steel allen bolts and large area washers.
- Thread starter
- #10
Hey Charlie, I did chase them with a tap and I have all stainless hardware to replace the bolts with. Surprisingly, they were pretty darn clean…except that one! as always
IMHO almost every fastener needs either anti seize compound or threadlocker.
- Thread starter
- #12
Here’s a question I have had for years…. Is anti-seize used on lug nuts?
I do (lightly) so they don't rust on. 60 of driving have never had a properly torque lug nut come loose.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
When I did this
It also bashed the skid plate against transfer case. Used crowbar and scissors jack to get clearance from the transfer case. If you install a skid plate upside-down with a solid spacer and longer bolts you can use a floor jack to bend back in place. Sure a two ton jack can get the job done.
Pic of 01/72 skidplate for floor shift
3-speed, with a little steel adjustment for above the plate header pipe exhaust.
3-speed, with a little steel adjustment for above the plate header pipe exhaust.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Think Toyota added the section in the back to discourage running the exhaust above the skid plate. Can see the same area on the front has had the PTO shaft cutout enlarged for I'm the exhaust. The hole that below the area is to drain the PTO. My 10/69 70 model did not have that section in the back. The original owner welded a heavy plate horizontal in that area for the Ramsey PTO winch he added. If the plate would been there sure it would have been bent flat in that area.
Will have go onto a computer that has pictures of a camera versus picture on a phone. I have a picture of the skid plate off my 10/75 76 model's skid plate and a three speed. The holes for the rivets and bolts are how you determine if it's for a three speed or four/five speed. My 2/73 has the four fixed nuts in the frame because other markets like Australia had a four speed in the 73 FJ40 model. All the skid plate only used three bolts per side. Three uses the front fixed nut while four speed uses the back fixed nut. Two fixed nuts in the middle are used for both.
To my knowledge the column shift and floor shift both used the same skid plate. The linkage for the column was high and ended close to the front to interfere with the skid plate.
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I have this skid plate that looks like yours
It's been trimmed a little in the front like yours. Have another lime yours that hasn't been trimmed. It's in a pile of six skid plates. There are two four speed pre 8/80 skid plates. One has the extra piece in the back other one doesn't. Other three are 8/80 and later.
Believe this is the original one from my FJ40.
Can it has a couple extra holes drilled along the edge of each side. Can't remember for sure but believe I drilled back in 1994 when I added a four speed. It looks correct for the bash I did in November 2001 on an elk hunt.
