Help fitting carling switches in oem holes- depth (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 6, 2014
Threads
22
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211
Location
Medford, OR
Website
www.hunttractor.com
I bought several new contra V switches from otrattw knowing that I would need to enlarge the holes for the oem switches to allow the carling switches to fit. I enlarged the holes slightly and the switches fit nicely in the holes, but the catches on the back of the switches do not catch the back of the hole like they should to hold the switch in place. From what I can tell, the edges of the holes are too thick keeping the catches on the back of the switches from springing out to hold the switch in place.

I know a lot of people are using these switches so I’m throwing the question out there to find out what you have done to keep the switches in place. What did you do to keep your switches in place?

I’m trying to use the holes to the left of the locker knob along with the holes in the center dash (top and bottom rows). All seem to be the same.

I also bought a Wits’ End ash tray replacement switch holder for carling switches that I am using. The switches fit perfectly in it.

Thank you in advance for your help.
 
The carling switches fit a max panel depth of .250" and the Toyota panel is .288" if the switch is recessed into the hole to the same depth of the Toyota switches. Obviously this will not work and the catch on the back of the Carling switch does not catch the back of the panel. The Carling switch also cannot be recessed to the same point as the Toyota switch or the rocker will hit the panel keeping it from locking in place.

It looks to me like there is no other option other than gluing the switch into the hole to keep it securely in place. Is this what you guys have done or am I missing something?

In my extensive searching I have seen far too many threads talking about people using Carling switches, but nobody states how they are making them stay in the hole. I have also seen many pics of carling switches in the locations I am attempting to use and they "appear" to be secure in the hole.

Help a brother out. Tell me I'm an idiot and point out the obvious. I can take it.
 
Sounds like you made the holes too big?. I opened up the holes at the top left of that panel for 2 switches for driving lights. I used a dremel. Mine fit pretty tight. You could thin the panel face from the inside by using a rotory disc on a dremel or 1\8" AIR POWERED DIE GRINDER.
 
Sounds like you made the holes too big?. I opened up the holes at the top left of that panel for 2 switches for driving lights. I used a dremel. Mine fit pretty tight. You could thin the panel face from the inside by using a rotory disc on a dremel or 1\8" AIR POWERED DIE GRINDER.
I made the holes just big enough to get the switches in and they are fairly tight, but they don't stay perfectly square to the face. I guess I should have made them tighter. I don't think I could have taken less material and got the switch in the hole. It was a slow process- grind a little, try to get the switch through the hole, repeat.

I did think about trimming the back of the panel down, but that makes it so the Toyota blanks won't stay tight in the hole if I decide to go another route later. Besides, it is going to be a real PITA to do!

If only the Carling switches were made to fit in a deeper panel.

I'm leaning towards gluing the switches in place to insure they stay right where I want them unless anyone has a better idea.
 

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