Help finding the remaining wires for Keyless/Remote start (1 Viewer)

[goaticus]

I'm installing a new keyless and remote start system in my rig. After multiple attempts to replace lost key FOB and the idea of getting in warmed, defrosted truck over the winter, I decided to get and aftermarket system.

I spent Sunday tearing apart the old security system harness to figure out what each wire did and how to deal with the vehicle being disabled without it plugged in. I plan on doing a full write-up once I have it all dialed.

Until then, I need to access some wires I haven't found yet. And, apparently, the $160 I spent on 1994 FSM Vol 1 & 2 does NOT get me the wiring diagrams.

First, there was one wire in the security harness I couldn't figure out. It is L/O in both the security harness and the harness going into the door pillar. It makes an odd erratic sound when testing continuity. My guess is a drivers door lock position indicator? The lower dash is laying on the floor in this pic so don't let it mess with orientation.

I was able to get some pretty good starter info from The12volt.com.
I also need access to;

-From the manual "positive (+) parking light wire that triggers when you lock and unlock the doors and remote start the vehicle." The12volt refernces Dark Green in drivers kick panel. There's a LOT going on in that area. Some more specific info would be great. I imagine it's in the body harness plug. However, in the next section...

-From the manual "Parking light 250mA negative (-) output. The proper wire will test (-) when the parking light switch is in the on position." Not sure why these sound similar but different.

-ignition wire I imagine will be in the column harness to send 12v+ to the starter relay.

-Lastly is a tach signal. The12volt recommended a tach signal in the "test connector" which I immagine is the diagnostic port in the engine bay. Anyone know which one?

Thanks for any help.

 

[shocktower]

I would find the FSM of the wiring and look into that, I hate electrical , I have removed a dozen of these alarm systems and threw them in the garbage . I do have access to a 94 FSM electrical I might see it tomorrow and then I could copy some pages and it might help your adventure

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

My thread about installing my remote starter, found here, might be of some use to you, especially the spreadsheet that I made and linked to. Mine is a '96 LX450 though, so I'm not sure if there are differences in the wiring of our vehicles.

 

[goaticus]

My thread about installing my remote starter, found here, might be of some use to you, especially the spreadsheet that I made and linked to. Mine is a '96 LX450 though, so I'm not sure if there are differences in the wiring of our vehicles.

Thanks, Man. I know there are definitely some difference between '93 &'94 and the later years. That is a very tidy job you did.

 

[cnorm5623]

So when I installed my Viper keyless/ remote start I used these Three threads

HOW TO: Detailed DIY for Remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry

Viper 211HV Keyless Entry Install

viper keyless entry locks but won't unlock

It is clear as mud but I was able to get it going.

 

[goaticus]

So when I installed my Viper keyless/ remote start I used these Three threads

HOW TO: Detailed DIY for Remote Start/Alarm/Keyless Entry

Viper 211HV Keyless Entry Install

viper keyless entry locks but won't unlock

It is clear as mud but I was able to get it going.

Some good info in there for sure. Didn't see in there though where the Viper system used any kind of tach signal to stop cranking the engine once it fires. I have my locks up and working and had to solve to locks but won't unlock mystery myself. Turns out to be the mystery wire I had been head scratching over all along.

What I was able to figure out was that if the locks are triggered (locked) with the drivers door closed (which truck gets signal from drivers door switch/dome light off) then it won't unlock when ground is provided to the unlock. Works fine though if drivers door is open. Figured out that if my L/O wire coming from the drivers door harness is grounded, it unlocks perfectly. My concern now is that the truck will now let me lock the keys in...?

Anyways still on the hunt for some wires. More to come.

 

[cnorm5623]

Some good info in there for sure. Didn't see in there though where the Viper system used any kind of tach signal to stop cranking the engine once it fires. I have my locks up and working and had to solve to locks but won't unlock mystery myself. Turns out to be the mystery wire I had been head scratching over all along.

What I was able to figure out was that if the locks are triggered (locked) with the drivers door closed (which truck gets signal from drivers door switch/dome light off) then it won't unlock when ground is provided to the unlock. Works fine though if drivers door is open. Figured out that if my L/O wire coming from the drivers door harness is grounded, it unlocks perfectly. My concern now is that the truck will now let me lock the keys in...?

Anyways still on the hunt for some wires. More to come.

The Viper System can use tach sig or voltage. I chose to use the voltage option. so after it starts and the alternator is spinning the voltage jumps up to charging and the system knows it started. my locks took me a while to figure out too. but mine was realizing I HAD to use the two wires coming from the passenger door together with a diode like in the last thread I posted.

 

[goaticus]

The Viper System can use tach sig or voltage. I chose to use the voltage option. so after it starts and the alternator is spinning the voltage jumps up to charging and the system knows it started. my locks took me a while to figure out too. but mine was realizing I HAD to use the two wires coming from the passenger door together with a diode like in the last thread I posted.

I thought about using the voltage but have a terrible fear of what might happen if the alternator/regulator were to s*** out and not provide that voltage lift.