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- #21
I hate all this newfangled gearshift stuff anyway. This is my wife’s truck. I drive a stick!Hah....we've all done that before. You're in good company.
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I hate all this newfangled gearshift stuff anyway. This is my wife’s truck. I drive a stick!Hah....we've all done that before. You're in good company.
I hate all this newfangled gearshift stuff anyway. This is my wife’s truck. I drive a stick!
He's screwed either way. It was working before he "started messing with it".
My condolences
You guys have no idea...
We go into the mechanic one time to drop it off for a service and the guy says to my wife “Anything you want us to have a look at?” My wife says “Yeah, I think the manifold shields are loose.” Guy looks at me and says, “Dude, you’re screwed. Gotta love a woman who knows when her manifold shields are loose!”
How am I going about the gearshift adjustment? Turn car on with park brake engaged to move shifter? Or do it with vehicle off and use the shift lock override?I agree that a mechanical reason inside the key cylinder is very unlikely at this point, so let's put that possibility aside for now.
The issue with your shifter first NOT coming out of Park and the attendant 'over shooting' of the lever would indicate an adjustment issue to me.
For that problem....I would be inclined to reset it:
This way we KNOW we are starting with a correctly oriented shifter/control shaft relationship.
- Loosen the nut on the shift lever.
- Move the control shaft on the transmission fully to the rearward position.
- Then bring the control shaft back forward (two notches) to the Neutral Position.
- Set the shift lever in its Neutral Position.
- Hold the shift lever lightly forward (towards the R position) and tighten the Shift Lever Nut.
After doing that....check to see that you can start the vehicle in both Park and Neutral.
Report back and we'll go from there.
As for the key not withdrawing from the cylinder we can eliminate one possibility by just testing the Key Interlock Solenoid:
View attachment 2604308
You should be able to find the connector for the KIS by following the wires coming from the bottom of the key cylinder to the harness.
How am I going about the gearshift adjustment? Turn car on with park brake engaged to move shifter? Or do it with vehicle off and use the shift lock override?
No sir. Half the time for this job is to cut around every clip hole, ground connection, etc. All good.Looks good. You didn't happen to 'wrap/insulate' anything that bolts to the body for a 'ground' did you?
Awesome, will do first thing in the morning. Thank you again!Vehicle off for this. Use over ride when time to move shifter. Chock wheels or use parking brake.
I’ll probably notice it more now that I’ve insulated that radiator of a transmission hump.I'll bet that amp gets quite toasty. Seat heaters can die on that seat and you'd never know!
So I just want to make absolutely sure I understand the instructions here before I mess things up even worse!
Is the nut you want me to loosen this one:
View attachment 2604611
And then I’m trying to locate the control shaft. The shift lever arm is welded to a cylinder that wraps around the nut and then runs towards the passenger side under some foam that I have disturbed yet:
View attachment 2604614
Control shaft is under here?
Roger that. Picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks!No, this involves the transmission to shift lever linkage, so you'll be going 'Down Under'.
View attachment 2604641
View attachment 2604642
There’s a nice drainage valley in my driveway that makes it real easy to get to the land down under. But it’s raining here in Tampa, stopping this afternoon. So I should have some news in a few hours.