HELP! Can't get snap ring in! (1 Viewer)

[dlee300z]

Doing the passenger birfied rebuild and finished everything except for one small thing. Can't get the Snap ring in. I don't have enough birfield to pull out to put the ring in.

I've taken it back apart 3 times, scraped off all gaskets like someone said but still, same thing. What can I do?

I've put in a 12mm bolt in and tried to pull it out but still, not enough to put the ring in. I'm going to be stranded if I don't get any help.

ANyone have any suggestions or ideas? I did line up the axle to the two smooth sides and there was no play in it.

HELP!!!

 

[-Spike-]

Seems like someone had a similar problem when they installed the cage in the birfield cup backwards. How confident are you about the orientation of the cage?

-Spike

 

[-Spike-]

Before you ask, I do NOT remember which way they're supposed to go. I always have to search the forums to figure it out. There's a flatter lip on one side, that's all I remember.

-Spike

 

[dlee300z]

thats the problem. I did that and can not pull enough out.

As for SPIKE-I didnt even break the birfield from the axle so I don't think thats the problem. I just packed it w/ alot of grease.

Believe, I YANKED it out w/ all my might---maybe I"m not strong enough but I used pliers and still no go!

 

[-Spike-]

Did you change any bearings? If so, did the races get fully seated? How about the spindle bushing, did you mess with it or replace the spindle? Perhaps a full accounting of what you did might help. I can't think of anything else at the moment that would cause your problem, other than bits of foreign matter lodged somewhere- like between the axle stub and the spindle bushing. Unfortunately I'm off to bed, perhaps someone else will be able to help.

-Spike

 

[clownmidget]

Make sure your ABS sensor is out. If it is in, take it out and replace it only after you have the rest buttoned up.

 

[clownmidget]

Make sure your drive plate is fully seated onto the dowel pins. A gentle twist and a gentle tap.

Re-read this just in case...https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276

 

[MoGas]

What year is your cruiser? Did you change the drive flanges? did you relpace a birf? there was a change mid 94 that uses a different birf shaft and drive flange

Dave

 

[clownmidget]

From a search it appears his IS a 94!

 

[MoGas]

We shoudn't have to search for that kind of information.........

 

[cruiserdan]

How much do you lack? Did you replace a birf or a drive flange? Did you replace wheel bearings?

 

[dlee300z]

Got a hint that it might be the races in my hub. Either the inner or outer race may not be seated in properly. I know I did the best I could do w/ the drift but maybe it has a little left to go.

Is the hub oil seal supposed to be perfectly even or should it go in deeper and have a little lip? I remember the seal was perfectly even when I put the rotor so its possible the outer race.

At least I won't have to take off anything more.
YIKES!!

 

[-Spike-]

As long as the seal contacts the smooth surface on the axle, it's good. A common fix for a chronic leaking seal is to move the new seal so it contacts the axle in a new spot.

My bet is on the races. Err, uh, bearing races. Meh.

-Spike

 

[dlee300z]

Got them in, Hub bearing races were not seated in all the way. I had to take out the hub and pounded them w/ the brass drift. It barely fit the Snap Ring but enough so that I could not push the axle in w/ the bolt so Im' happy.

Thanks guys! Thanks ALVARO AND ANDY also!!

 

[-Spike-]

Keep an eye on your bearings. If they still aren't fully seated (the snap ring should fit easily) they may move and that will change your preload drastically, burning up your bearings in a hurry.

-Spike.

 

[alvarorb]

David,

I'm glad it worked out. I had a similar situation years ago. All the race needed was a couple of more poundings.
Last time I replaced my bearings, I used a race setting tool. What a big difference. Plus the same tool can be used to set seals. I want one of those.

Regards

Alvaro