Help! Brake problem! (1 Viewer)

[DirtyRice Joe]

My son's FJ62 sat for about a week while on vacation. When he first drove it (to a friend's house - about 10 miles; then to the mall - another 10 miles), it was fine. But after his 3rd stop (about 25 miles total) the brake pedal went almost to the floor. He was able to stop and parked the truck. He said the brake light never came on. We went to get it, I checked the fluid and saw it was low. Just as I opened the reservoir, he pushed down the brake pedal. I stopped him and filled the reservoir. I couldn't get the pedal to come back to normal by pumping. I slowly drove home, the brake light was on the whole time. I had brakes, but the pedal was very low. Any idea what our problem is, and how we can can fix it?

I've never bled brakes before (except as the "pumper). Do I need to try this? Did my son pumping the pedal with the reservoir cap off introduce air into the system?

I've tried to search the threads, but didn't find anything that seemed directly applicable. By the way, it's a 1988 FJ62. Where is the LSPV located on that model? One of the posts I read re: bleed order said: LPSV, RR, LR, RF, and then LF. Another said RR, LR, LPSV, RF, and then LF. Which is correct, or did I misunderstand something?

Thanks, in advance,
Joe

 

[flybynight]

Start with getting the air out first...then you will know what else if any thing is wrong.

If you pumped air into the master you need to bleed it first. Remove both brake lines, have partner press pedal, plug holes with fingers, release pedal. repeat 3 - 4 times.

bleeding rule is start with wheel furthest from Master Cyl. work your way back. pump and hold while some one cracks bleed screw. it is best if you purge all the lines with fresh fluid. do this by puting a clear hose on nipple running into a bottle with fluid in it andpump out old fluid. (get hose at aquarium supply.)
the hose and bottle keep air from back in to the system.
it is possible that the fluid is so old that it has lost its viscosity.
LPSV is in line where single line back splits into two.

If you are alone pick up a set of Speed Bleeders from parts store and replace your existing bleed screws with them.

Good luck

 

[flybynight]

By the way, be sure to check pad wear while wheels are off.

 

[DirtyRice Joe]

Thanks for the info, Fly. Brake shoes were worn to the metal. I had a heck of a time getting the old drums off because everything was so tight, worn, and hanging up on grooves in the drums. I was finally able to get in the adjustment hole with two screwdrivers to release pressure on the star and turn it backwards. I'm pretty much re-assembled now, except for the new drums I'm awaiting. Then final assembly and bleeding. I'm still not sure on that "longest to shortest" run thing, and my FSM Brake Section refers me to the "Chassis & Body Manual", which I don't have.

 

[2mbb]

You want to start bleeding with the wheel cylinder that is farthest away from the master cylinder--but the distance is measured in terms of the total length of brake line. Because the brake line runs down the right side of the chassis, the wheel cylinder that is farthest away with the Left Rear. Next is Right Rear, then Left Front then Right Front. If you have an LSPV, you bleed that last.

 

[overhanger]

You want to start bleeding with the wheel cylinder that is farthest away from the master cylinder--but the distance is measured in terms of the total length of brake line. Because the brake line runs down the right side of the chassis, the wheel cylinder that is farthest away with the Left Rear. Next is Right Rear, then Left Front then Right Front. If you have an LSPV, you bleed that last.

Yup

 

[DirtyRice Joe]

Thanks all! The job is finished!