heim crossover steering issue (1 Viewer)

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cruisermatt

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Who's running 7/8" heims in crossover setup with Toyota high-steer arms? I recently started converting my setup from a custom y-link (with the same heims) to crossover, got this Trail gear crossover arm for free so decided to give it a go. Ordered custom length 7075 links from WOD.
Went to put it all together and the heims contact each other at pretty much all points, I ground the side of one of them and was able to get most of the steering angle but they really crash into each other right before full lock.
Wondering if a different brand steering arm like 4x4labs or Marlin would fix this. Only need the holes to be 0.100-0.200" more apart I think.
Side note I am most likely going to add 6 stud upgrade and a ram assist in the next few months, so most likely going with 4x4labs arms.
Worst comes to worst I have the ability to make my own arms I just don't have a ton of time currently. Any ideas?

the larger diameter links contact the spring plates too, of course :rolleyes:
 
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Seen guys just massage the contact area until there is a 1/16 or so and let it roll. That is worse when trying to use 1 ton ends, drill new hole type stuff.
Luke's arms fit the heims IIRC. I don't think Marlins do. Also, I thought I saw a special steering heim on Ruff Stuff site, not sure why it was special but may be for this exact issue ??
 
Stepping down to 3/4” heims would sorta fix it since they have a smaller body, but I don’t like the idea of a 3/4” shank in my steering, that’s smaller then stock Cruiser stuff. The ruffstuff 3/4 x 7/8” heims still have the same body size the bolt bore is the only difference.

I’ll try to get ahold of Luke @ 4x4labs and see what he says. I might just try to make a custom arm. I’ve got everything to do it. Been thinking about ditching the cone washers and going to 9/16” studs or bolts for awhile too
 
New steering arms with more spacing between the holes, or grind the bodies of the heims till they clear.
 
New steering arms with more spacing between the holes, or grind the bodies of the heims till they clear.

I already gave them some grind action but now the drag link joint is colliding with the jam nut/ steering link. Different arms are really the answer, the question is really if anyone knows arms that work. I sent emails to 4x4labs and Sky offroad but would probably prefer 4x4labs since they're 6-stud. Front Range keyed arms (he sells blank arms i think) are a potential option I just haven't seen anyone running them.
The CruiserMatt garage may be able to make some arms too.
 
cone washers good, my NWF arm for my dana 60 uses lug nuts, same idea, straight studs or bolts IMO would be a digression.
 
cone washers good, my NWF arm for my dana 60 uses lug nuts, same idea, straight studs or bolts IMO would be a digression.

I wouldn't mind lug nuts. I'm just tired of having to hammer stuff to disassemble. Zero regrets with going to heims or ditching the cone washers in the axle hubs for bigger bolts. So nice to just be able to disassemble things.
 
Not as ideal but the 45 that I had set up with heims ran the tierod under the arm and the dragkink above to make room.
 
Not as ideal but the 45 that I had set up with heims ran the tierod under the arm and the dragkink above to make room.

And it cleared leaf springs?
 
It did, the lift was a 4" spring under lift.

Yeah that won’t work for me. My tie rod was already running the leaf spring when fully flexed out and now the diameter of my links is bigger since I went from steel to aluminum.
Maybe I should just put the steel Y-link back on I didn’t have any issues with that :rolleyes:
 
Can you just raise one a bit with a spacer?

Consider Front range offroad arms. They key to the knuckle and eliminate the need for "six studs"
Theyre also built in different heights and come drilled or not.
 
Can you just raise one a bit with a spacer?

Consider Front range offroad arms. They key to the knuckle and eliminate the need for "six studs"
Theyre also built in different heights and come drilled or not.

Just saw this. Interesting idea with a spacer. Not sure if that would work unless the spacer was really tall (compliance) and then there's the potential clearance issue under bump/uptravel. I'll look at it later.
And yes I've seen the keyed arms. I like the idea and have not completely disregarded using them.
 

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