Heater Hose T's - Do NOT Wait!!!
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I drained maybe a quart via the valve on the bottom of the radiator...lost a few drops when the T's were removed.
Steve
Good tip, I'll do that for my next T change in 2020
The petcock.....
That's the word I was thinking of...though in the boondocks where I live that may refer generally to a neighbor's rooster.
I just changed mine today and the one closest to the driver's side crumbled when I took it apart. I also got new hoses from the dealer. All told, it was over $200 for 2 T's and 6 hoses. Took me about an hour to replace. I didn't drain the radiator at all and made a big mess.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Good on ya for changing them, but you need a new dealer! Cdan, Beno, or http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329
2001 California LC with 122k miles. The hot side T broke when pulling off the hose. Think we have enough folks here to prove this is a easy fix to avoid a lot of trouble.
Often Toyo dealers have online sites they don't disclose. Found Toyotamarinparts.com last week and saved 30% or so. Replaced all six hoses and T's, also did the fuel filter whiles I was in their. Tomorrow I finish the water pump, new radiator, new gaskets etc. Pain in the butt but worth it for the long haul. Also really nice to know it's done right vs. a independent mechanic.
Often Toyo dealers have online sites they don't disclose. Found Toyotamarinparts.com last week and saved 30% or so. Replaced all six hoses and T's, also did the fuel filter whiles I was in their. Tomorrow I finish the water pump, new radiator, new gaskets etc. Pain in the butt but worth it for the long haul. Also really nice to know it's done right vs. a independent mechanic.
Mine is A 98 with just over 60k and I had them done at the Yota dealer. My Buddy is the Service Director and I was getting a coolant Svc anyway so he changed them out for almost nothing . Very glad to know they r done !
Wow I did not know this was even an issue but in swapping the engine this week (2001 lx470 172k) one of these just fell apart... I headed to my plumbing bin and happened to have a brass PEX plumbing Tee 3/4 x 3/4 X 1/2" worked perfect I only replaced one side... guess I'll go back and do the other... this is a common Tee for pex plumbing where you are creating a 1/2" drop from a continuing 3/4" line they come in both plastic and brass and are barbed ... pex plumbing sizes are a bit misleading as the fittings fit INSIDE the tube and the tubing is a bit undersize... most big box stores (lowes HD) ect... carry pex fittings now... the plastic ones are rated for hot water and for in wall use and I've never had a failure (certified installer) but I still like brass...
Curious: Those who found original Ts deteriorated / disintegrated: Do you know history of vehicle coolant changes? If so, was it every 30k miles using distilled water for mix as recommended?
I followed recommended 30k intervals using 40/60 distilled water /coolant mix from the beginning (LX bought new in '99), and my Ts still looked fine when I changed them at about 180k miles.
There may be a chemical aspect to the plastic deterioration, driven by chlorine or other impurities in tap water, and/or general coolant mix degradation when change intervals are excessive (more than 30k miles).
I followed recommended 30k intervals using 40/60 distilled water /coolant mix from the beginning (LX bought new in '99), and my Ts still looked fine when I changed them at about 180k miles.
There may be a chemical aspect to the plastic deterioration, driven by chlorine or other impurities in tap water, and/or general coolant mix degradation when change intervals are excessive (more than 30k miles).
uHu
Bridgeburner
I wonder is this is a petrol/gas only problem, or 2UZ specific? Never heard of a HDJ100 with this problem, although it has the same setup with those Tees.
It could be clorine or fluoride related as well, but would the levels be high enough to make a difference?
It could be clorine or fluoride related as well, but would the levels be high enough to make a difference?
Good point - my LC was dealer serviced until I bought it and the heater-Ts looked virtually new when i swapped them out at 100k.
Don't know about a dealer, but I remember back in the 80's when I worked in auto shops we used plain tap water, straight from a hose pipe connected to city water. Filtered or distilled water costs more, I would not expect a typical shop to use it unless they can't get away with using plain tap water. Tap water is usually pretty impure, lots of chlorine residue and byproducts plus other impurities.
I also remember typical American vehicle coolant systems in the 80's loading up with all kinds of corrosion and contamination in service; part of that was probably due to their materials, poor cleanliness of parts (from UAW plants mind you), and poor electrical grounding design contributing to galvanic/electrolytic effects, but part was probably also due to plain tap water being used for coolant mix instead of distilled water.
I had a '96 GMC truck, always changed coolant using distilled water mix at recommended intervals, and it never developed such problems. One vehicle does not a study make, but it is one more data point.
When I worked at (a major Japanese auto manufacturer) in the 90's, they had an onsite water purification plant for coolant mix. Not sure what the process was (filtration, reverse osmosis, or what) but that indicates the importance of water purity for coolant and cooling system longevity. (They would not spend a dime that was not necessary.)
One of the potential drawbacks of plastic is possible susceptibility to chemical attack. Just a thought.
I also remember typical American vehicle coolant systems in the 80's loading up with all kinds of corrosion and contamination in service; part of that was probably due to their materials, poor cleanliness of parts (from UAW plants mind you), and poor electrical grounding design contributing to galvanic/electrolytic effects, but part was probably also due to plain tap water being used for coolant mix instead of distilled water.
I had a '96 GMC truck, always changed coolant using distilled water mix at recommended intervals, and it never developed such problems. One vehicle does not a study make, but it is one more data point.
When I worked at (a major Japanese auto manufacturer) in the 90's, they had an onsite water purification plant for coolant mix. Not sure what the process was (filtration, reverse osmosis, or what) but that indicates the importance of water purity for coolant and cooling system longevity. (They would not spend a dime that was not necessary.)
One of the potential drawbacks of plastic is possible susceptibility to chemical attack. Just a thought.
hoser
SILVER Star
I'm just going to guess it is caused by heat. One Tee is often in worse condition than the other Tee. I'm guessing the Tee in better condition comes after the heater core (cooler temperature).
And since you mentioned no problems with the Tee's on the 1HD-FTE, I looked up the thermostats. I don't know what normal operating temperature is but...
2UZ-FE thermostat opens at 180 degrees F (82 C)
1HD-FTE thermostat opens at 169 degrees F (76 C)
and an ignition cylinder, and a transmission, and a brake master cylinder, and a front differential, and a timing belt, and a throttle position sensor, and...
You have one thing drastically wrong, the damn master cylinder does does not stop the 100 when it gives up the ghost.
Ts on mine has small leaks, and broken into small pieces. I do not know when last time coolant was changed, but it has orange coolant when I bought the car. I am planning to flush the coolant this weekend and replace with Toyota Red.
