NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Great Job Izzy! I have a few vehicles that need this done. Come on over
Heater Core Flushing - OWNED! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter izzyandsue
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Yeah man, I am the sheeeetz now. Drove the truck for the first time since doing this job. This morning was 60F outside, within 90 seconds of driving it was blowing hot air. Amazing, like a real car.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I made the mistake of telling Heather about this, hers puts out crappy heat. Selling this as a kit Izzy? 
- Thread starter
- #25
Will cost more to ship than to go to Lowes/home depot to get. The only brass thing was the hose coupler, all else plastic and a couple bucks. I will attack the full system/radiator flush maybe next weekend.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I was pulling your leg on the kit. I have to get Heather's truck in the shop at some point and just do it. Somehow, working on our own stuff is not as much fun as it used to be.
I'm in the same boat as you....takes forever to start blowing warm air. Anyone done this on the mighty 3FE before? I imagine the steps are identical, just a matter of knowing which hoses are which.
-D
-D
- Thread starter
- #28
I figured, no worries. I am gathering both materials and intestinal fortitude to do the radiator flush (with freaking pictures for the less mechanically inclined like me) this weekend. Looks like choco-milk right now. Hope to do step by step with plain language, and not screw it up. Like an old fashion army field manual, "if you want the soldier to pour piss out of his boot, write the instructions on the heel".
The other thing I need to do is remove and reinsert "correctly" the front locker actuator so the light doesn't flash when turned on. I tested it, locks fine but light flashes. It was probably installed without the FSM procedure, which by the way is really a screwy halfassed explanation. I thought my Japanese was good enough, but that translation is turrible turrible.
The other thing I need to do is remove and reinsert "correctly" the front locker actuator so the light doesn't flash when turned on. I tested it, locks fine but light flashes. It was probably installed without the FSM procedure, which by the way is really a screwy halfassed explanation. I thought my Japanese was good enough, but that translation is turrible turrible.
Beware of the muriatic acid radiator flush. I did this 50/50 (MA/H20) in the Crockpot's radiator and it cost me a radiator...just sayin'...and before anyone asks, I did follow with two complete flushes with baking soda/water. It worked great for a week and then sprang a leak that could not be repaired. Shop said the core was etched too thin and kept splitting when heat and solder was applied. This rad was maybe 5-6 years old. Still had the OEM sticker on the bottom of the tank.
- Thread starter
- #30
I was going to use this:
Motor Medic by Gunk C2124 Super Heavty Duty Radiator Flush - 22 oz.
Motor Medic by Gunk C2124 Super Heavty Duty Radiator Flush - 22 oz.
- Thread starter
- #31
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Citric is fine. Very mild as compared with muriatic acid (which is basically just hydrochloric acid). I have used the citric flush before on another vehicle and it did okay but seemed like weak sauce. I went the full monty on the CP using muriatic and that was a big mistake. You live and learn!
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks! Better to learn from others than to repeat the same mistakes.
- Thread starter
- #34
So, when i drain the radiator, does the whole system drains? Thats what the videos show, but i am skeptical. Never done this.
jfz80
Cruisin’
No. There is what seems to be at least a gallon or more residual in block and rear heater. There is a block drain plug driver side below and behind oil filter. When I flush mine I will alternate opening the rad and the block to flush all the old out. Running and up to temp (Tstat open) with heaters on high of course.
- Thread starter
- #36
Roger that!
- Thread starter
- #37
Getting closer to D day here for this job. Went to look at engine to see if I could find the drain cock. lots of bolts on the side of the engine, could be any of them, or I have a cockless block...
For radiator, don't see any drains either, will have to remove the front skid plate tomorrow and poke around there. I have a newer radiator, that much I do know, was already installed with the truck when I bought it.
For radiator, don't see any drains either, will have to remove the front skid plate tomorrow and poke around there. I have a newer radiator, that much I do know, was already installed with the truck when I bought it.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Oh c'mon sue
Go look again. It's not too bad. And I don't recall lots of bolts. I got a busted flash but will try and snap a pic. Lift your wheel skirt and look straight in behind coil tower and wheel. 18" extension and 12 or 14 mm
Rad should be on driver side. It is a pain to get to or see. Almost in the from core support crossmember. I use 90* pliers to break free. Then fingers till it dribbles all over you
Go look again. It's not too bad. And I don't recall lots of bolts. I got a busted flash but will try and snap a pic. Lift your wheel skirt and look straight in behind coil tower and wheel. 18" extension and 12 or 14 mm
Rad should be on driver side. It is a pain to get to or see. Almost in the from core support crossmember. I use 90* pliers to break free. Then fingers till it dribbles all over you
- Thread starter
- #39
Wait, I have to lift my skirt for this? That's a whole different thing.
Yeah. I'd say so. You're looking for a cock on the block. What better way?
