Headliner Insulation ???? (1 Viewer)

[DanS HJ-45]

FWIW--I just ordered the thermal and acoustic barrier from Eastwood to spray on the roof before I put in a new headliner.

It's a pretty new product, so no reviews yet so I will be a guinea pig.

Do we need to save the bows from the original headliner for the SOR one, or others?

Dan

 

[bluehawk]

Don't know about the SOR liner, but I was told to keep the old rods. Also, mark the location where there came from out of the old head liner. I think they are specific from the front to the back.

 

[87CRUSR]

I used thin 1/8"? dynamat roofliner in between the ribs, installed OEM roof silencer pads and finished it off with SOR vinyl headliner. Tight fit but pleased with product.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Don't know about the SOR liner, but I was told to keep the old rods. Also, mark the location where there came from out of the old head liner. I think they are specific from the front to the back.

Cool.

I have saved the whole thing so far, just in case....

I'll make sure to report back on results (which will be a while, since the truck won't run for a few months yet) with the acoustic/thermal barrier setup.

Dan

 

[bluehawk]

cool, I got some floor under layment insulation and will use it to put on the roof before the headliner goes in. Hope the headliner will be done this week along with the sun visors.

 

[doug720]

Im not an expert on this subject, but whatever material you use on the interior rood panels, consider moisture.

The self stick materials should be OK, if there are no voids to hold moisture. If it's bonded properly, no moisture should get trapped between the roof and insulation. I would be cautious around the ribs.

Any other material used, should breath to allow condensation to vent. If not, I would suspect rust will be an issue.

To me, foam and mylar type materials would be a bad choice, as they will not allow moisture to vent through them, the only path would be to exit along the edges.

Maybe I'm wrong, but LandCruisers rust at the thought of trapped moisture, so I would be cautious and find the best material.

 

[jfnall]

Im not an expert on this subject, but whatever material you use on the interior rood panels, consider moisture.

The self stick materials should be OK, if there are no voids to hold moisture. If it's bonded properly, no moisture should get trapped between the roof and insulation. I would be cautious around the ribs.

Any other material used, should breath to allow condensation to vent. If not, I would suspect rust will be an issue.

To me, foam and mylar type materials would be a bad choice, as they will not allow moisture to vent through them, the only path would be to exit along the edges.

Maybe I'm wrong, but LandCruisers rust at the thought of trapped moisture, so I would be cautious and find the best material.

With that in mind, I think a spray on product might be best, along with a wool batting like the OEM wool, or jute for under carpet. I don't think I will use the jute with one side foil as I first thought I might. Being able to breathe will be important

 

[87CRUSR]

I checked my records and I did use the 1/8". Of the web...Dynaliner is the most effective automotive lightweight thermal insulator available, and perfect to use on top of Dynamat Xtreme. It is a soft, self-adhesive closed cell rubber with thousands of cells packed extremely close together, which gives the material near zero air infiltration occurrences. This is the key to its ability to reduce heat, as well as resist oil and water. Since it will not hold water, it will not promote rust or mildew like most under carpet padding and thermal insulators. Dynaliner is also durable enough to be crush and tear resistant. Because of its durability and ability to resist oil and water, Dynaliner is long lasting.

 

[jfnall]

I checked my records and I did use the 1/8". Of the web...Dynaliner is the most effective automotive lightweight thermal insulator available, and perfect to use on top of Dynamat Xtreme. It is a soft, self-adhesive closed cell rubber with thousands of cells packed extremely close together, which gives the material near zero air infiltration occurrences. This is the key to its ability to reduce heat, as well as resist oil and water. Since it will not hold water, it will not promote rust or mildew like most under carpet padding and thermal insulators. Dynaliner is also durable enough to be crush and tear resistant. Because of its durability and ability to resist oil and water, Dynaliner is long lasting.

Is this product similar to QuietCrap? If so, I was advised by the guy that sells QuietCrap deadener that it is probably too heavy of a product to add that to the roof. Maybe if the stick-em potentially lets loose with the heat, then the sheet of product is falling down on the liner. Any thoughts?

 

[87CRUSR]

Is this product similar to QuietCrap? If so, I was advised by the guy that sells QuietCrap deadener that it is probably too heavy of a product to add that to the roof. Maybe if the stick-em potentially lets loose with the heat, then the sheet of product is falling down on the liner. Any thoughts?

The roof liner material I installed is not the QuietcrP like material. I used QC on the floor but it is indeed to heavy for the roof. Look at the 1/8 inch Dynaliner material. Much lighter and a completely different type of material for roof applications.

 

[jfnall]

So Dynaliner 1 layer is as sound proofing as the OEM wool?

 

[87CRUSR]

So Dynaliner 1 layer is as sound proofing as the OEM wool?

I used both. The Dynaliner (not over the rib supports) and the OEM wool on top of that. I thought....why not?

 

[gregnash]

Looks like the Dynaliner is nothing more than 1/4" closed cell foam which is supposed to be moisture resistant (for the most part). If it truly is then you can pick that stuff up cheap at any fabric shop or upholstery shop. And I would probably do the same thing as @87CRUSR with the OEM style JUTE over the CCF which is between the ribs.

 

[bluehawk]

Haven't got my headliner back yet and I will be out of country for a few months. When I get back, I'll post up on the new one.

 

[mmw68]

Hey Ya'll - some people have use my 50mil on the underside of the roofs with no issues. How about I send you a large sample when you get back into the country, and you can try it out? I've also been testing a roll on "sluge" and Iam seeing great results with it too. Be happy to get this into your hands and hear some feed back on what you think. -Mark

 

[Cruiser Parking Only]

Hey Ya'll - some people have use my 50mil on the underside of the roofs with no issues. How about I send you a large sample when you get back into the country, and you can try it out? I've also been testing a roll on "sluge" and Iam seeing great results with it too. Be happy to get this into your hands and hear some feed back on what you think. -Mark

Hello everyone
I recently gutted the interior of my 1982 Fj60 so I will be following this thread closley to get ideas.
Thanks for creating this thread.

 

[gregnash]

Hey Ya'll - some people have use my 50mil on the underside of the roofs with no issues. How about I send you a large sample when you get back into the country, and you can try it out? I've also been testing a roll on "sluge" and Iam seeing great results with it too. Be happy to get this into your hands and hear some feed back on what you think. -Mark

Mark (@mmw68) have a questions regarding your sludge product.... would this be something that the OE style jute would stick to or would one have to look for other ways of adhesion for the jute? Would be interested to see what your stuff is like as I plan to sound deaden the inside of my truck eventually and I know that @The Machinist used it (I believe) and was very happy with the Quiet Crap.

 

[bluehawk]

Hey Ya'll - some people have use my 50mil on the underside of the roofs with no issues. How about I send you a large sample when you get back into the country, and you can try it out? I've also been testing a roll on "sluge" and Iam seeing great results with it too. Be happy to get this into your hands and hear some feed back on what you think. -Mark

Sounds good, I'll be in contact with you when I get back. Like gregnash asked, will a jute like material adhere to your product.

 

[Off Duty]

sub'd

 

[mmw68]

This product is would be a stand alone product. Once it dries, you can paint, sand, or even put a layer of Queitcrap on top. Are you talking about using jute up top on the headliner or on floor. Most of the time you lay down a deadener - then the jute and carpet lay on top. You might use some adhesive in some areas, but most of the time you would not.

Mark (@mmw68) have a questions regarding your sludge product.... would this be something that the OE style jute would stick to or would one have to look for other ways of adhesion for the jute? Would be interested to see what your stuff is like as I plan to sound deaden the inside of my truck eventually and I know that @The Machinist used it (I believe) and was very happy with the Quiet Crap.