Head gasket??? (1 Viewer)

[Jim_M.]

Head gasket???

I’m wondering if I’ve blown the head gasket on my 1997 40th anniversary. When I get on the gas, particularly going uphill, and the rpms get around 2000 it hesitates and shudders. Not consistently though. If I’m on a downhill or flat it runs fine. On the way home today the check engine light came on.

I’ve looked around for a vacuum leak and did find a sizable crack in the hose that goes from the air filter to the throttle body. So right now its duct taped. I plan on replacing that very soon. I don’t smell anything burning and my oil looks really clean. Transmision fluid looks good too. Temps are all OK and my rpm at idle is fine. I can replicate the hesitation/shudder if I put it in drive and keep my foot on the brake and slowly get on the gas. Again hesitation/shudder starts around 2000 rpm.

The one wild card is it started about about 10 miles after I filled up w/ gas. It’s not the brand I usually run and was 87 octane. I’m just not sure bad gas would cause this.

Any thoughts you guys may have would be appreciated.
thanks in advance…jim

 

[Photoman]

Jim,
From what you describe it is only happening under load. Usually that could be bad fuel, clogged fuel filter, or bad fuel pump. Also could be other things including the leak you found or a vacuum leak. I would replace that hose first, check the other hoses, then replace the fuel filter. You could have gotten some bad gas which would probably screw up the fuel filter anyway. I don't think it's the head gasket. Just my guesses.
Bill

 

[cruiserdan]

Photo is spot on,

Your problem is the air intake hose. The vehicle goes "lean" because the hose opens up when the engine torques. When you are "power braking" the engine, it torques over and opens the crack. Replace the hose and you should be fine.



Send gifts to cruiserdan@paypal.com :

 

[landtoy80]

paypal doesn't except liquid gifts.

 

[cruiserdan]

Kurt,

EXCELENT POINT.

In that case, PM me for shipping instructions....... :

 

[Jim_M.]

Well it actually turned out to be the plugs. I'm sure the gaping hole in my hose didn't help much, but after I replaced the section of bad hose I really didn't notice a significant improvement. This proves to me that my temporary duct tape repair was first rate.

Last night I replaced all the plugs, reset the computer and it runs like a top. I want to replace the wires, distributor cap and rotor now as well. The cap and rotor prices from my local Toyota dealer aren’t too bad but the price for the wires is $109.54. I know there’s a lot of wire there but does that price sound right?

thanks

 

[Beowulf]

Jim,
As several can attest, the OEM plug wires are your best option. The price is reasonable considering their quality. Some have tried after-market wires and most have been disappointed with the fitment issues and the quality.

A smart shopper can probably get a little better price from C-Dan.

-B-

 

[Jim_M.]

I definitely want to stay OEM, do you think it's worthwhile replacing the wire to the coil as well?

 

[cruiserman]

Measure the resistance before you waste $80 on plug wires. Spend the money on a FSM.

 

[Landpimp]

[quote author=jim m. link=board=2;threadid=4932;start=msg40263#msg40263 date=1063292551]
I definitely want to stay OEM, do you think it's worthwhile replacing the wire to the coil as well?
[/quote]

if the OEM wires are like all other Cruiser spark plug wires it will come with the coil wire included. if for some reason not then yes replace the coil wire

John

 

[cruiserdan]

CORD SET, COIL AND SPARK: 90919-21557, list $109.54.
A smart shopper could maybe find one for about $82.15



Note: As the description indicates, it includes a coil wire.

 

[GXO]

My word C-Dan...someone must love your smart shopper program

I know I do.