Head Gasket toast- need advice

[Andrewsreef]

Ok, the denial is over and my headgasket is done (if you have read my past posts). When I went to change my oil, I now have oil seeping from the head/block junction. This is new as I thought I had a coolant leak from the head a while back. The oil seems to be leaking out and then making its way to the starter, transmission tube and transmission and down the oil pan. I see where it is coming from and it is definatley the head gasket /block seem.

I have two mechanics I trust that do good work and they are honest. Neither has done a headgasket on one of these (they have 4 runners and other toyotas). I have really tried and I can not find a shop locally that really knows these trucks. For all of you that have experience doing this job, is there anything I need to tell them to watch out for? I have read the timing chain tensioner somtimes needs replacing but anything else? I am also going to replace the intake as it has a small crack on one of the bolt holes.

Please advise if you have experience doing this job and can help with trouble areas and the like.

Thanks again.

Andrew

 

[Beowulf]

>> ... I now have oil seeping from the head/block junction. <<

I forget, how many miles on your LX?

Several regulars posted good advice to Landtank and Cruiserman and Lars when they did their own HG replacement (cruiserman had to go much deeper.) Look back for those threads though the pictures are probably gone since that was before the forum software change. Pay attention to Robbie's advice as he has probably done more HG's on the 1FZ-FE engines than anyone else in the US or maybe in the world.

You don't want your mechanic to pull the timing chain cover if you can avoid it. Rick had to but that was because he accidentally broke the guide while removing the head. If the chain cover has to come off then there are other things you should replace like the tensioner, the chain guide, the oil pressure relief valve, and maybe the oil pump. Again, stay away from those pieces if you can cause that's a LOT more work than the head gasket. (See C-Dan's oil galley plug saga for details)

-B-

 

[Andrewsreef]

Just turned 79k. I will look back at those posts and I may try to PM cruiserman this weekend.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[landtank]

on the past thread I posted a scan of my HG. if you look at the red rubber ring in th eupper right corner you'll see a nick of sorts in it. That's the seal for the oil passage and your's will most likely looks the same. The nick is not supposed to be there.

In my opinion, don't mill the head unless absolutely needed! Most people seem to think this should be done since the head is off anyway. Chase all head bolt holes to make sure they are clean of debris. Don't wire brush the head surface to clean the old gasket off. You want that surface as smooth as possible when reassembling it. I pollished it with some wet/dry very fine paper and alcohol. You want the new gasket to slide easily between the head and block. The wiring harness threads through the intake. I removed mine which was involved but made life alot easier since I could R&R the head/intake as an assembly.

I simply changed out the HG and had no head work done at all. The engine runs great, 20k later.

 

[robbie]

I would have a cylinder leak down test done to see if the valves need work, this test will let the mechanic see if the vavles are seating. If you want a little more power Mill the head no more than .015 inch(.010 is perfered). Have the head looked over for any pitting that is deeper than .003-.004, especially around the coolant passanges. I would also look over the bottom end as postive pressure has to build up for oil to leak out this or any area along the head. If you mechanic's have any problem they could call the shop and ask questions. Yes I have seen head with this milage need some valve work. The customer could not believe the way the truck ran after I did the work. later robbie

 

[Andrewsreef]

Robbie, or others, while the head is off I am going to have to face the intake manifold crack on on of the screws that attaches the intake to the throttle body. I was able to determine the crack is on the portion of the intake that is for the screw and is not leaking as best I can tell with soapy water. It does not appear to be anywhere near the tube portion of the intake. Do you think this is worth repairing with JBWeld or just replacing it? Another $200 to the problem if it has to be replaced. I know this is hard to answer without a better picture (from my prior post).

Thanks

 

[RavenTai]

Originally posted by RJCorazza:
[QB] When you say "built for 200a continuous draw" do you mean the cables will handle that load, or you will be placing a 200 amp continuous load on your batteries?
[/QB]

Could you repost a picture of that crack? Is it in a spot where it can grow (heading for air passages) or did it crack from the hole to the edge and has "run it's course"?

Best practice would be to replace it, unless you can completely fill the inside of the crack with jbweld it is going to be a weak spot, don't know how hard $200 will hurt you, there has been several 80's parted out, a used one will be much cheaper, a used manifold (after it is cleaned) is just as good as a new one as long as it has no damage, warpage or corrosion, they don’t wear

 

[semlin]

given the $ you are about to invest, you are crazy not to replace that intake manifold even if only with a used one (try www.cruiserparts.net).

 

[cruiserdan]

I bet Christo's got one.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Who is Christo? Cruiserparts.net has one for $175 +shiping. Does that sound about right?

Thanks

ANdrew

 

[cruiserdan]

Who is Christo? Cruiserparts.net has one for $175 +shiping. Does that sound about right?

Thanks

ANdrew

.....................um, I don't know how to respond. Christo is Christo Slee, propriotor of Slee Off Road. He is a true pioneer of 80 series Cruiser modifications and improvements. Without going into booring detail, he runs a shop in Golden Colorado and has spent a good deal of time on perfecting add-on goodies suitable for the 80 series. In addition, he is a member of the board and contributes regularly. As a result of his tinkering he has aquired a pile of parts and a few vehicles that he has parted out.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Sorry, did not mean to offend anyone. I have heard his name but was not sure about it.

THanks

ANdrew

 

[cruiserdan]

You did not offend anybody.


It's a bit funny actually, kind of like saying "Who is Michael Jordan?" at a basketball game.....

 

[Andrewsreef]

Got it.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[Riley]

>> It's a bit funny actually, kind of like saying "Who is Michael Jordan?" at a basketball game..... <<

LOL, now that's funny Dan.

I remember when Christo PM'd me to see if I had any pics of my Outback roofrack on my 80 that he could use on his site.

A couple of days later I'm driving out at my sister's farm with the step ladder in the back to take pics from a good angle.

Kind of like Michael Jordan wanting a couple of pics of my Nikes. ;p

Good luck Andrew, you're getting good advice.

R

 

[reffug]

It's a bit funny actually, kind of like saying "Who is Michael Jordan?" at a basketball game.....[/QUOTE]


Good call Dan, funny! I doubt even Christo was offended.

 

[Andrewsreef]

Thank you Cruiserdan. Christo does have an Intake and I am ordering it today!!!

Thanks again.

Andrew

 

[Andrewsreef]

Ok, my shop pulled everything apart today and was cleaning parts when I called. They said the head gasket looked ok and had no "failure points" that they could see. Could that be due to the fact that most of the veichles they work on have complete failures and mine was "starting to fail and leak"?

Please give me your thoughts.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[landtank]

If you can get the HG would you mind scanning the #5 and #6 section and posting it. On the mine and the others that I've seen there was a distortion in the sealing ring of #6.

I'd be willing to pay postage to see it in person also.

 

[Lars]

Here is my gasket and where it was leaking coolant on #6....