Head Gasket Blues
- Thread starter browndog
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- Thread starter
- #42
Thanks for the tips guys.
This is all good information. I took caution to get all of the removable texture off of the head and mating surface, so it is as smooth as it can be without having it resurfaced. I am a little concerned about a few small "pits" on the two surfaces, including the indentations left by the previous gasket rigs, but I assume that this is normal given how much torque is applied to the head bolts.
The head is on, and after a brief lunch break to settle my nerves I will get on with reassembly. We're not having the best weather for the coolant flush I'll need to do, but so be it.
Thanks for all the help.
This is all good information. I took caution to get all of the removable texture off of the head and mating surface, so it is as smooth as it can be without having it resurfaced. I am a little concerned about a few small "pits" on the two surfaces, including the indentations left by the previous gasket rigs, but I assume that this is normal given how much torque is applied to the head bolts.
The head is on, and after a brief lunch break to settle my nerves I will get on with reassembly. We're not having the best weather for the coolant flush I'll need to do, but so be it.
Thanks for all the help.
Matt, I still have all of the fittings that I used for my coolant flush. Let me know if you want to use them, you know how to reach me.
I hope that the cleaning went well. Let me know if you need an extra set of hands.
After this is done, post up a picture of the old headgasket. I am curious about the deflection on cylinder 1 and hope others have some insight.
Riley
I hope that the cleaning went well. Let me know if you need an extra set of hands.
After this is done, post up a picture of the old headgasket. I am curious about the deflection on cylinder 1 and hope others have some insight.
Riley
- Thread starter
- #44
Well....
Got her all buttoned up and went for the big start. Three things happened:
1) the water return nipple I broke early on and then tried to fix came off.
2) it didn't start, but got pretty close
3) I realized while taking a look at the engine to see if I was missing something that I only put ONE gasket on the fuel inlet pipe instead of TWO. Sweet.
It got very close to starting but never quite got there. I imagine there is air in the line but hadn't read anywhere that I needed to do anything special re: the fuel system.
What am I missing?
Got her all buttoned up and went for the big start. Three things happened:
1) the water return nipple I broke early on and then tried to fix came off.
2) it didn't start, but got pretty close
3) I realized while taking a look at the engine to see if I was missing something that I only put ONE gasket on the fuel inlet pipe instead of TWO. Sweet.
It got very close to starting but never quite got there. I imagine there is air in the line but hadn't read anywhere that I needed to do anything special re: the fuel system.
What am I missing?
you shouldn't have to. What is happening now?
- Thread starter
- #47
LandTank:
No start. I can get the motor to turn over and it almost catches but doesn't get all the way there. I can smell fuel in the exhaust and in the engine bay (like when flooded), which makes me think there must be a spark issue. I'm sure my two remaining problems (water bypass nipple and fuel inlet pipe gasket) are not related although I plan to fix those today.
I will go back over all my connections this morning to see if I missed a connecter or something.
No start. I can get the motor to turn over and it almost catches but doesn't get all the way there. I can smell fuel in the exhaust and in the engine bay (like when flooded), which makes me think there must be a spark issue. I'm sure my two remaining problems (water bypass nipple and fuel inlet pipe gasket) are not related although I plan to fix those today.
I will go back over all my connections this morning to see if I missed a connecter or something.
sounds like you have the distributor in wrong.
- Thread starter
- #49
Well, that could be. I thought the distributor assembly was pretty straightforward--line up the marks and push in--but I could be wrong. Another potential problem is the firing sequence of the spark plugs. Before I did the HG my wires were NOT hooked up in the sequence recommended in the FSM. I thought about going by the manual but my wires were not long enough for the recommended sequence, so I went with how they were hooked up prior to starting the project (1-6 in sequence).
That would sure be an easy fix.
That would sure be an easy fix.
- Thread starter
- #50
Checked the spark plug sequence, distributor setting, and looked for any loose connections. All looks well. I did read in another thread that the VAF, which I messed up on day 1, can create starting problems. I had it "fixed" at a local electronics shop, but it may not have worked. I'll be checking out a replacement VAF this evening to see if that works. If not, back to the drawing board.
Oh man, this is wrong on so many levels. First, the wires are marked as well as the dizzy cap so just plug them in correctly.
If the wires were out of sequence whan you took them off then someone before you could have pulled the distributor and got it back in wrong and then moved the wires to compensate.
I'd start fresh and rotate the crank to TDC of compression stroke and setup the distributor correctly. Then the stock wiring will work fine.
just because the dots line up doesn't mean it is in right. if you watch the shaft as you insert the distributor it rotates. your dots are no longer aligned. you want the dot on the housing at approximately 11 o'clock.
- Thread starter
- #53
Whoa there fellas. I checked mine against another Cruiser today and they are hooked up exactly the same. I also checked my distributor position against his and again--the same. Give me a little credit here. I may be having some issues but I'm not an idiot.
I think my problem may be with the VAF and I hope to test a new (used) one tomorrow.
I think my problem may be with the VAF and I hope to test a new (used) one tomorrow.
when you checked the distributor did you remove the cap and make sure the rotor was pointing in the correct position. That is more important than the housing itself.
I didn't mean to imply you are an idiot, just responding to the statement that the original wiring sequence was out of order.
I didn't mean to imply you are an idiot, just responding to the statement that the original wiring sequence was out of order.
Agree with Rick and Rory above.
For me, the picture below was wrong. Forget that grooved line on the distributor gear. That doesn't mean nothing.
And then this fixed it(pointing at 11:00 O'clock). When you put it in, it has to be like this.
And after all that, always make sure the pulley is at TDC like the following:
Try this, see what happens. If this doesn't fix your problem then you need to start digging into fuel related stuff and wirings and etc.
good luck
For me, the picture below was wrong. Forget that grooved line on the distributor gear. That doesn't mean nothing.
And then this fixed it(pointing at 11:00 O'clock). When you put it in, it has to be like this.
And after all that, always make sure the pulley is at TDC like the following:
Try this, see what happens. If this doesn't fix your problem then you need to start digging into fuel related stuff and wirings and etc.
good luck
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The first thing i would check is the postion of the number one piston when the timimg mark is at zero degrees. I realize that this is a long shot, but the crusier has never started, perhaps it is 180 degree out.
that is to say, when you put the cams in there were two dots, I personally found the FSM very confusing on this point. if the cams are out 180 degrees it will never start.
to check do this....
remove the #1 plug, put your thumb in the spark plug tube, and turn the engine with the socket and wrench. If every thing is in order you will be able to feel the compression and air rushing past your thumb as the piston come up to TDC. and the marks on the balancer will line up at 0. if this does not happen, your cams are 180 out.
proably not the problem, but good to double check before you go any further.
Scott.
that is to say, when you put the cams in there were two dots, I personally found the FSM very confusing on this point. if the cams are out 180 degrees it will never start.
to check do this....
remove the #1 plug, put your thumb in the spark plug tube, and turn the engine with the socket and wrench. If every thing is in order you will be able to feel the compression and air rushing past your thumb as the piston come up to TDC. and the marks on the balancer will line up at 0. if this does not happen, your cams are 180 out.
proably not the problem, but good to double check before you go any further.
Scott.
it's important to make sure the timing mark is at zero on the COMPRESSION stroke. Lining everything up on the EXHAUST stroke won't get you anywhere.
So once that is done mark the dizzy base where the #1 plug is located on the cap and then insert the dizzy so the rotor points to that mark.
So once that is done mark the dizzy base where the #1 plug is located on the cap and then insert the dizzy so the rotor points to that mark.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks again folks.
Wasn't the dizzy. I took the cap off today to check alignment of the rotor and repositioned it so that it pointed to approximately 11 o'clock (while in TDC). Still didn't work. Swapped in a new VAM and it fired right up.
I let it idle for a while until it found a happy rpm, let it warm up so coolant would circulate throughout, and planned to add coolant as necessary. Took a little drive and all felt normal.
I'd love to celebrate but I'm seeing A LOT of white/gray smoke from the exhaust still. I assume it will take a little while to burn all the crap out of there, but I'm a bit concerned. Also, even after I got the motor warm the coolant level has not dropped, and I've only added about 10 qts (FSM says 14). I'm afraid I've got additional issues here.
How long should it take for the exhaust to clear up, and should I be trouble shooting cooling system issues?
Wasn't the dizzy. I took the cap off today to check alignment of the rotor and repositioned it so that it pointed to approximately 11 o'clock (while in TDC). Still didn't work. Swapped in a new VAM and it fired right up.
I let it idle for a while until it found a happy rpm, let it warm up so coolant would circulate throughout, and planned to add coolant as necessary. Took a little drive and all felt normal.
I'd love to celebrate but I'm seeing A LOT of white/gray smoke from the exhaust still. I assume it will take a little while to burn all the crap out of there, but I'm a bit concerned. Also, even after I got the motor warm the coolant level has not dropped, and I've only added about 10 qts (FSM says 14). I'm afraid I've got additional issues here.
How long should it take for the exhaust to clear up, and should I be trouble shooting cooling system issues?
