- Thread starter
- #141
Thermostat thingy at 12... yes... Just got a timing light and not 100% how to set the timing... yet.
Head gasket and free beer
- Thread starter bdruff
- Start date
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Thermostat thingy at 12... yes... Just got a timing light and not 100% how to set the timing... yet.
Short on diagnostic box I think te1 to e1 but check first then turn ignition on you should have check engine now
Turn truck on
Then hook timing light to plug 1 set light to 3 degrees move distributer till light goes to 3 on dial of engine
There is thread on here recently where the fsm is pictured and till exactly how to do it
Turn truck on
Then hook timing light to plug 1 set light to 3 degrees move distributer till light goes to 3 on dial of engine
There is thread on here recently where the fsm is pictured and till exactly how to do it
- Thread starter
- #143
Got the new radiator in... still having a little trouble with timing. I think im a tooth off on the distributor but I don't know which direction. It starts but pings... I followed the fsm... jumped the pins in the diagnostic box... and have a timing light on it. I can see the line but it is way left of the 3 degree btdc line.
It isn't easy to get to now with the battery back in so trial and error isn't exciting... any tips on putting the distributor in the right if it is off a tooth?
It isn't easy to get to now with the battery back in so trial and error isn't exciting... any tips on putting the distributor in the right if it is off a tooth?
With the rotor at 11 o'clock your lock down bolt should be pretty much centered in the timing adjustment slot on the distributor. You can be one tooth off and still set the timing to 3 deg but your adjuster will be all the way to one end of the slot.
You can save yourself some headache with the egr valve install by using bolts installed from the driver side of the plenum once
the valve is mated to the plenum. Then put a nut on to secure the valve as you would with the stud. I realize you already ordered studs. That vacuum leak is probably responsible for you problems.
How much bars leaks did you dump in? I use that stuff in an fj40 radiator years ago and had no problem with it.
You can save yourself some headache with the egr valve install by using bolts installed from the driver side of the plenum once
How much bars leaks did you dump in? I use that stuff in an fj40 radiator years ago and had no problem with it.
Not if you know for a fact you are one tooth off and you know in which direction. I recently had to yank the distributor out of an 80 I bought a few months because it was off by one tooth. Our situations are different though because mine was running perfectly but I could see that the distributor was clocked weirdly.
I suggest going to TDC on the firing stroke of #1 and go from there.
I suggest going to TDC on the firing stroke of #1 and go from there.
- Thread starter
- #148
I really dont know what's going on fir a fact. It was running but bad.
It took longer than normal to start and It would sometimes sort of backfire /hiccup at start up but then would idle fine. It had a bad ping/pre-ignition though when I took off.
I took the distributor out and followed the fsm, lining up the groove and gear and the bolt.
No start.
I took it out and moved it to tcd. Aligned the distributor again and reinstalled.
No start. It cranks but doesn't turn over now.
Then pull the distributor and rotate the engine 360. With the timing mark at 0 deg. reinsert the distributor and try again.
Gotta be a good feeling!!!!!!!!!!!! Right on man. Good job keeping with it and not getting too discouraged. Drink a cold one and pat yourself on the back! 
Nice work. Way to hang in there through the setbacks 
Good job!
This is one job I hope to avoid. It would require me to clean and organize the garage and that is a severe form of punishment.
This is one job I hope to avoid. It would require me to clean and organize the garage and that is a severe form of punishment.
Great job, and now the big question. You gonna keep her now that you've got your blood, sweat, and tears in her?
- Thread starter
- #155
Great job, and now the big question. You gonna keep her now that you've got your blood, sweat, and tears in her?
Ain't that the truth...i don't know. Definitely makes me appreciate it more. Maybe I'll put it up for a ridiculous amount and just drive it with a for sale sign on it.
- Thread starter
- #156
So I expected some minor issues...this one probably is but I have gas bubbling out of my injector. Enough to drip and smells strong. I can actually see it bubbling.
The truck is running great...no codes. I never did put the timing light on it. I just went off my mark. It does take a little longer to turn over but now I suspect that's the injector.
I did use new o'rings, spacers, and ruber inserts. Could they have just not set?
I'll have time in the moring to look at it. Suggestions appreciated.
The truck is running great...no codes. I never did put the timing light on it. I just went off my mark. It does take a little longer to turn over but now I suspect that's the injector.
I did use new o'rings, spacers, and ruber inserts. Could they have just not set?
I'll have time in the moring to look at it. Suggestions appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #157
I took the throttle body off. The injector didn't leak but other threads have had leaks after cleaning. Mine didn't leak at all before and I didn't mess with them much. Just changed the o'rings and insulators. Maybe I pinched it when I was settting it in.
It was leaking a lot though.
I loosened the first 2 bolts on the fuel rail...but predictably....the 3rd is going to be a bitch. 1/4 inch with a long extension...and maybe a swivel at the end. I'll figure it out...
But should I take the whole rail out...will I risk messing up the other injectors?
Should I just try to loosen the bolts enough to try and reset the one injector? What would I be looking for to make sure it is seated? The fsm just said to spin them and make sure they seat. I thought I did...but obviously not.
There are plenty of threads in injectors so I'll keep reading.
It was leaking a lot though.
I loosened the first 2 bolts on the fuel rail...but predictably....the 3rd is going to be a bitch. 1/4 inch with a long extension...and maybe a swivel at the end. I'll figure it out...
But should I take the whole rail out...will I risk messing up the other injectors?
Should I just try to loosen the bolts enough to try and reset the one injector? What would I be looking for to make sure it is seated? The fsm just said to spin them and make sure they seat. I thought I did...but obviously not.
There are plenty of threads in injectors so I'll keep reading.
- Thread starter
- #159
Took me about 2 hours to get everything out...air filter, egr, throttle body, upper plennum and fuel rail. I opted to take the fuel line out that runs to the filter. Maybe coyld have left it in but wanted to have good clearance for the fuel rail.
I knew which injector was bad but it was obvious on the bench. It was the only one that had resistance when I spun it left and right.
Hour trip to toyota and back at it.
Put a very small amount of vasaline and slid the new o'ring on. It definitely felt better than the other ones (i only lubricated with gas per fsm)
Was super careful putting it in.
About 2 hours putting it back together...more careful than when I held my first born for the first time...or there abouts.
Fired it up...and happy to report that I have no leaks and she's running great.
Hopefully this is the last of the expected, small issues.
I knew which injector was bad but it was obvious on the bench. It was the only one that had resistance when I spun it left and right.
Hour trip to toyota and back at it.
Put a very small amount of vasaline and slid the new o'ring on. It definitely felt better than the other ones (i only lubricated with gas per fsm)
Was super careful putting it in.
About 2 hours putting it back together...more careful than when I held my first born for the first time...or there abouts.
Fired it up...and happy to report that I have no leaks and she's running great.
Hopefully this is the last of the expected, small issues.
- Thread starter
- #160
400 miles down the road and happy to report that she is running better than ever. 100+ degrees in Fresno, California and the air is blowing ice cold even at the stop lights.
No leaks, temps good, and smooth idle.
I would be happy driving this truck for the rest of my life but my wife still wants something newer. A 100 series is probably more off-road capable than anything we'll ever need and I think I could love one of those just as much.
As promised, here is the VIN number
local Craigslist ad
1995 Toyota 80 series Land Cruiser
No leaks, temps good, and smooth idle.
I would be happy driving this truck for the rest of my life but my wife still wants something newer. A 100 series is probably more off-road capable than anything we'll ever need and I think I could love one of those just as much.
As promised, here is the VIN number
local Craigslist ad
1995 Toyota 80 series Land Cruiser
