Head freeze plug turns into head gasket replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter zapatius
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #45
Cut away tape and cover for main harness where it passes EGR pipe. Had two wires that had some heat marks, but no real damage. Wrapped in Super 88 electrical tape and then covered with Heat Shield Products Lava Tube (hook and loop wrap). Secured with stainless steel zip ties.
- Thread starter
- #46
New fuel pressure regulator. Used a product called "Aluma Brite" on the aluminum parts. It's marketed purpose is primarily to take corrosion off aluminum boat pontoons. I replaced most hardware with stainless steel. I used blue thread locker to prevent galling. Had one broken injector clip (#6) and the wires were in bad enough shape - ordered some replacements with pigtails from @slow95z
- Thread starter
- #47
Painted valve cover in Toyota 6M1. Cleared in KBS Diamond Coat - which sucks. It was soft enough that it deformed around the valve cover bolts. By the way, went with all new Toyota valve cover bolts and tightened to 108 in-lbs. Seemed to be right (saw previous posts that listed it at either 9 or 8 ft-lbs).
Looking good. Doing it RIGHT! 
- Thread starter
- #49
I am taking my time working on getting it all back together.
Got most everything back on. Here's a picture with the KBS High Temp Silicone Zinc on the exhaust headers and the lower part of the EGR body. I have soaked a lot of stuff in Evaporust or the aluminum cleaner.
One note - put the engine lift point on before you do the fuel rail, that was derpy on my part and now I will have to wiggle the bolts in.
I put on the '95-'97 heater pipe that runs above the exhaust manifold and, since I removed the PAIR, I used the '95-'97 pipe that runs above the crank pulley and hooks into the engine lift point.
Now, here's the wrench in the works - I'm probably only an hour away from it running but I took off the windshield cowl and found some rust under the weatherstripping. So I'm taking out the windshield next week and addressing that issue.
Got most everything back on. Here's a picture with the KBS High Temp Silicone Zinc on the exhaust headers and the lower part of the EGR body. I have soaked a lot of stuff in Evaporust or the aluminum cleaner.
One note - put the engine lift point on before you do the fuel rail, that was derpy on my part and now I will have to wiggle the bolts in.
I put on the '95-'97 heater pipe that runs above the exhaust manifold and, since I removed the PAIR, I used the '95-'97 pipe that runs above the crank pulley and hooks into the engine lift point.
Now, here's the wrench in the works - I'm probably only an hour away from it running but I took off the windshield cowl and found some rust under the weatherstripping. So I'm taking out the windshield next week and addressing that issue.
- Thread starter
- #52
I actually got everything put back together. Timing is off and I have a huge leak at the timing chain tensioner. Replacement parts on order, then I'll address the timing. For some reason, the timing always kicks my ass.
I went with a Vacmotion catch can for the PCV hose, if anyone is looking for a smaller option.
I went with a Vacmotion catch can for the PCV hose, if anyone is looking for a smaller option.
- Thread starter
- #53
So far, I am pleased with the KBS High Temp silicone zinc primer for the manifolds. Also went with the '95-'97 heater pipe . Cleaned and polished the throttle body. I bypassed the rear heater, removed the hard lines and the rear heater. I used stainless hex-keyed studs for the old PAIR (now O2) spots on the manifolds.
- Thread starter
- #54
I took off the cat heat shields and tossed them. They were rusty. The new ones from @slow95z cleaned right up and I painted them with the KBS High Temp silicone zinc primer as well. I took off the bolt on heat shield, which was very rusty. Left it in Evaporust for a few days. Cleaned it up and painted it with Seymour MRO high gloss black. Replaced hardware with stainless. Found some rust behind that heat shield, along the seam. Removed it and covered that whole seam behind the heat shield with Woolwax. The glare from the photo is because the Seymour paint is super shiny.
- Thread starter
- #57
Man.....you've got that thing looking GOOD..........!
Thanks! Trying to make it up to her for being a dumbass.
Did you coat the throttle body after polish? I like to make things very clean when i go in so i know where i was later. I also think it makes it easier to find problems later.
- Thread starter
- #59
I did not. What do you recommend?
Ha i was hoping to get that from you. I don't know how good a clear engine paint will stick to it.
