HDJ81 Heater Control Valve (1 Viewer)

[CruiserGord]

So that part for the 1990-92 models is officially discontinued. Only option is to try and locate a used one from a wrecker.

Other option is to possibly remove the new valve off the bracket and figure out a way to make it work on the original.


If one could just get the valve with the correct orientation it would be as simple as removing 2 screws and putting it on the original bracket. I'm sure other vehicles would've used that valve just with a different bracket.

 

[CruiserGord]

Alright check it out! I did some valve searching with pictures and found some interesting comparisons. Looks like the 96-99 4Runner uses the same valve, just mounted on a different bracket. Flow direction and valve handle are same orientation as the 90-92 cruiser version. One would just have to remove the bracket via two screws to swap out. Here's a picture of said valve:

 

[CruiserGord]

This Valve also seems to apply to the 95-98 T100. Would have to figure out if the open and close orientation inside is the same. Using the T100 search yields cheaper prices but only provides the valve, which is all you really need unless your original mounting bracket is FUBAR'd. Also looks to be aftermarket and not a denso but could be wrong.

 

[CruiserGord]

Here is an aftermarket "valve only" that could be purchased and tested. If it works then one could get the Toyota Genuine valve afterwards. Could probably put the original valve arm on as well. Only concern would be if the internals operated opposite direction. Original setup is valve open when arm is up.

Toyota 4Runner 1996-1998 Heater Valve 87240 35050 METRIX Brand New | eBay

 

[CruiserGord]

Update:

So from all the pictures I could dig up on the other Yota valves, they all seem to shut in the opposite direction. After some more key word searching I have discovered that the Ford Expedition(98-2002) may be the next target for valve replacement AND the valve only costs $9US.

So, I ordered one to have shipped to my father's winter hang out in Arizona and when he comes home, in March, I'll test it out. If anyone else wants to give it a try you can order it from Pitstop Auto or from Walmart(Sold and shipped by Pit Stop Auto) with free shipping.

Description is as follows: New HVAC Heater Control Valve 1790015 - F75Z18495AA Expedition. You can see that the valve arm shuts on the pull down not when pushed up on all the other valves I've looked at.

 

[CruiserGord]

Minor update:

My Father received the part and sent me pictures. The valve looks pretty much identical to the factory one and operates in exactly the same direction/orientation. This could be just as easy as removing the screw and swapping the valve control arm then mounting the valve on the existing bracket. I'll post more details once I get it in hand.

OH! I Forgot to mention...This part only cost $9US. Cheap easy fix if anyone ever has a valve issue.

The valve is made/supplied by UAC and the order is fulfilled by Walmart/Pit Stop Auto. You can actually go the UAC website and look up the valve using a 2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer Edition.

 

[SteveJackson]

Not sure if this has been posted, but Murray part number 74642 is a great replacement, just requires modifying the actuator arm on the valve a little.

 

[CruiserGord]

Sorry I forgot about this post! So I got the valve that my father brought back. It functions the same as the OEM. To use you’d have to remove the new arm via the one screw and put one from your old valve on. As long as the key shape fits the old arm it would be a direct replacement. Here are some pics:

 

[gte343z]

Has anyone tried using a LHD FZJ80 Heater valve body? It has the correct orientation (closes in counter clockwise orientation). You would need to reuse your RHD HDJ81 bracket and arm. This assumes that the indexing feature on the center of the arm is clocked appropriately (that the valve modules are identical). I suspect Toyota would keep the valve identical and vary they clocking using the arm itself. I don't have an FJ LHD valve to compare with right now, but the next time I go to the parts store or junk yard I will pull the lever off and take a picture.

Below are part numbers and an image of the different heater valve orientations for 90-92 models.
HJ - LHD, CW close, part #: 87240-60090
HJ - RHD, CCW close, part #: 87240-60080
FJ - LHD, CCW close, part #: 87240-60070
FJ - RHD, CW close, part #: 87240-60060

92-95 toyota eliminates the differences between FJ and HJ
FJ/HJ (LHD), CCW close, part #: 87240-60140
FJ/HJ (RHD), CW close, part #: 87240-60130

95-98 uses one single part number with orientation the same as the FJ LHD below.
FZJ/HJ (RHD & LHD), CCW close, part #: 87240-60170

 

[Bonznfc]

Has anyone tried using a LHD FZJ80 Heater valve body? It has the correct orientation (closes in counter clockwise orientation). You would need to reuse your RHD HDJ81 bracket and arm. This assumes that the indexing feature on the center of the arm is clocked appropriately (that the valve modules are identical). I suspect Toyota would keep the valve identical and vary they clocking using the arm itself. I don't have an FJ LHD valve to compare with right now, but the next time I go to the parts store or junk yard I will pull the lever off and take a picture.

Below are part numbers and an image of the different heater valve orientations for 90-92 models.
HJ - LHD, CW close, part #: 87240-60090
HJ - RHD, CCW close, part #: 87240-60080
FJ - LHD, CCW close, part #: 87240-60070
FJ - RHD, CW close, part #: 87240-60060

92-95 toyota eliminates the differences between FJ and HJ
FJ/HJ (LHD), CCW close, part #: 87240-60140
FJ/HJ (RHD), CW close, part #: 87240-60130

95-98 uses one single part number with orientation the same as the FJ LHD below.
FZJ/HJ (RHD & LHD), CCW close, part #: 87240-60170

View attachment 2152541

any luck with this???

 

[HillCountryTX]

Hopefully this helps other HDJ81 owners (I have a 1991 HDJ81 with about 257,xxx kms) out in regards to the HDJ81 Heater Control Valve replacement. Since the OEM Denso version is discontinued and no longer available I wasn't sure what to do. However...@SteveJackson helped out big time! And @SteveJackson deserves the credit for this find...in his Post #27 earlier in this thread he mentions that you can use a Murray Part #74642 Heater Valve as a replacement for the RHD HDJ81 heater valve (see HDJ81 Heater Control Valve - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj81-heater-control-valve.827718/post-11932985). I am HAPPY to report that this heater valve does in fact work, but it involves some minor modification of the white plastic keyhole where the metal armature connects to the heater valve body itself. The Murray heater valve was about $22 at O'Reilly's, but I had to have it shipped to the store, as they did not have it in stock in the store, FYI. I also needed to get some 5/8 in Gates Heater Hose to replace a tiny section of the original heater hose.

To do this heater valve replacement was not that difficult and I did not lose more than a quarter cup of coolant once I opened up the system. Since the heater valve is near the top of the vehicle's coolant system there is not much to push out of the system The hardest part I encountered was the removal of the existing short section of heater hose to the left of the heater valve when viewing the heater valve from the front of the engine. Since I have a 1991 HDJ81 the original heater hose was pretty stuck. I also learned about a different style of Toyota clamp that uses a "pin" to unravel/reel up a small metal band.

You can view the photos below to see what i did.

Below is what my old heater valve looks like in my 1991 HDJ81. You can see some pink crust around the plastic valve, somewhat where the lefthand heater hose meets the plastic valve body. I never did find a crack or source of the coolant leak, but it must have been tiny and only apparent when the system heated up. As you are probably well aware, if this heater valve fails (i.e. the plastic connectors disintegrate or crack) you can lose a lot of coolant in very little time. Replacing this heater valve is great preventative maintenance!

Next I disconnected the end of the cable (i.e. the cable that links the inside climate control slider with the heater valve) from the armature on the existing heater valve in the engine bay. I had the inside climate control slider set to "cold" so that the cable was fully retracted. This was pretty straight forward as there is only a metal clip that you need unclip to in order free the cable from the heater valve armature (the metal arm). You can see in the photo below the metal clip and cable end that I'm talking about.

I then removed the heater hose on the right side of the heater valve when facing the heater valve head on. It involves unscrewing a screw-tensioned clamp. I reused this heater hose and the screw-tensioned clamp as they are both in good condition (the right heater hose had been replaced a few years ago and is not the original one, fyi). Know that once you remove the heater hose from the the heater valve body you will lose a small bit of coolant. In total I lost maybe 1/4 of a cup of red coolant...not too bad. Below is a photo with the right side heater hose removed.

Next I removed the old heater hose to the left of the heater valve. It took me awhile to figure out how the clamps functioned. To loosen them you simply turn the pin so that it loosens...you do NOT try and remove the pin by sliding it out like I thought...that was the a-ha moment for me Below you can see I used a nail punch to "unscrew" or turn the pin so that it lets out the metal clamp tension. I did NOT reuse these clamps as I felt like they are somewhat of a one-time use clamp.

The left heater hose was the most stubborn to remove and I had to eventually cut it off the metal heater pipe, taking care to not nick/scratch the underlying metal heater pipe. The left hand heater hose was definitely original and I did NOT reuse it. In its place I used Gates 5/8 Heater Hose.

I then loosened the entire heater valve from the engine bay by using a 10mm socket to unbolt it from the chassis. Now it was time to adapt the Murray Heater Valve to operate like the original Denso Heater Valve in terms of where the armature is when it is in the "open" (or heat) and "closed" (or cool) position. After looking at the new Murray heater valve I realized that I need to trim the plastic keyhole that orients the metal armature on the valve itself. I used a small hacksaw and very gingerly sawed off a small bit of plastic to make the keyhole fit.

Below is a comparison shot of what the Murray part looks like relative to the OEM Denso heater valve on the bracket. You'll notice the metal armature is 180 deg. opposite of what the OEM heater valve is. You'll have to "reclock" the armature to match the OEM heater valve, so to speak.

To "reclock" the metal armature on the new Murray heater valve you simply undo the black screw and remove the metal armature. You'll notice there is a "house" shaped plastic keyhole in the white plastic below. Simply trim the white plastic looking "roof" portion of the "house" so that the metal armature will sit in the same orientation as the OEM heater valve arm when it is in the cold (or "shut") position. It doesn't require that much trimming...just a little bit. Now re-fit the metal armature so that it is oriented like the OEM was. Then put the screw back in. I then removed the old OEM heater valve from the existing mounting bracket and transferred the new Murray heater valve on to it. It was a perfect fit. The installation is in reverse, only I replaced the left-hand heater hose with some Gates 5/8 heater hose and used some stainless steel clamps to clamp it down.

I made sure all the connections were tight, but not too tight, and then started up the engine and drove around for awhile. Make sure the in-cab heater slider properly turns the valve so that hot is hot and cold is cold That's it. No need to "burp" the coolant system or anything. Any of that air will eventually make its way to the overflow bottle and come out of the system...just make sure to have that heater on to encourage the coolant to flow through the system. Hope this helps other folks!

 

[gte343z]

Hopefully this helps other HDJ81 owners (I have a 1991 HDJ81 with about 257,xxx kms) out in regards to the HDJ81 Heater Control Valve replacement. Since the OEM Denso version is discontinued and no longer available I wasn't sure what to do. However...@SteveJackson helped out big time! And @SteveJackson deserves the credit for this find...in his Post #27 earlier in this thread he mentions that you can use a Murray Part #74642 Heater Valve as a replacement for the RHD HDJ81 heater valve (see HDJ81 Heater Control Valve - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj81-heater-control-valve.827718/post-11932985). I am HAPPY to report that this heater valve does in fact work, but it involves some minor modification of the white plastic keyhole where the metal armature connects to the heater valve body itself. The Murray heater valve was about $22 at O'Reilly's, but I had to have it shipped to the store, as they did not have it in stock in the store, FYI. I also needed to get some 5/8 in Gates Heater Hose to replace a tiny section of the original heater hose.

To do this heater valve replacement was not that difficult and I did not lose more than a quarter cup of coolant once I opened up the system. Since the heater valve is near the top of the vehicle's coolant system there is not much to push out of the system The hardest part I encountered was the removal of the existing short section of heater hose to the left of the heater valve when viewing the heater valve from the front of the engine. Since I have a 1991 HDJ81 the original heater hose was pretty stuck. I also learned about a different style of Toyota clamp that uses a "pin" to unravel/reel up a small metal band.

You can view the photos below to see what i did.

Below is what my old heater valve looks like in my 1991 HDJ81. You can see some pink crust around the plastic valve, somewhat where the lefthand heater hose meets the plastic valve body. I never did find a crack or source of the coolant leak, but it must have been tiny and only apparent when the system heated up. As you are probably well aware, if this heater valve fails (i.e. the plastic connectors disintegrate or crack) you can lose a lot of coolant in very little time. Replacing this heater valve is great preventative maintenance!

View attachment 2597981


Next I disconnected the end of the cable (i.e. the cable that links the inside climate control slider with the heater valve) from the armature on the existing heater valve in the engine bay. I had the inside climate control slider set to "cold" so that the cable was fully retracted. This was pretty straight forward as there is only a metal clip that you need unclip to in order free the cable from the heater valve armature (the metal arm). You can see in the photo below the metal clip and cable end that I'm talking about.

View attachment 2597988

I then removed the heater hose on the right side of the heater valve when facing the heater valve head on. It involves unscrewing a screw-tensioned clamp. I reused this heater hose and the screw-tensioned clamp as they are both in good condition (the right heater hose had been replaced a few years ago and is not the original one, fyi). Know that once you remove the heater hose from the the heater valve body you will lose a small bit of coolant. In total I lost maybe 1/4 of a cup of red coolant...not too bad. Below is a photo with the right side heater hose removed.

View attachment 2597989


Next I removed the old heater hose to the left of the heater valve. It took me awhile to figure out how the clamps functioned. To loosen them you simply turn the pin so that it loosens...you do NOT try and remove the pin by sliding it out like I thought...that was the a-ha moment for me Below you can see I used a nail punch to "unscrew" or turn the pin so that it lets out the metal clamp tension. I did NOT reuse these clamps as I felt like they are somewhat of a one-time use clamp.

View attachment 2597992


The left heater hose was the most stubborn to remove and I had to eventually cut it off the metal heater pipe, taking care to not nick/scratch the underlying metal heater pipe. The left hand heater hose was definitely original and I did NOT reuse it. In its place I used Gates 5/8 Heater Hose.

I then loosened the entire heater valve from the engine bay by using a 10mm socket to unbolt it from the chassis. Now it was time to adapt the Murray Heater Valve to operate like the original Denso Heater Valve in terms of where the armature is when it is in the "open" (or heat) and "closed" (or cool) position. After looking at the new Murray heater valve I realized that I need to trim the plastic keyhole that orients the metal armature on the valve itself. I used a small hacksaw and very gingerly sawed off a small bit of plastic to make the keyhole fit.

Below is a comparison shot of what the Murray part looks like relative to the OEM Denso heater valve on the bracket. You'll notice the metal armature is 180 deg. opposite of what the OEM heater valve is. You'll have to "reclock" the armature to match the OEM heater valve, so to speak.

View attachment 2598012


To "reclock" the metal armature on the new Murray heater valve you simply undo the black screw and remove the metal armature. You'll notice there is a "house" shaped plastic keyhole in the white plastic below. Simply trim the white plastic looking "roof" portion of the "house" so that the metal armature will sit in the same orientation as the OEM heater valve arm when it is in the cold (or "shut") position. It doesn't require that much trimming...just a little bit. Now re-fit the metal armature so that it is oriented like the OEM was. Then put the screw back in. I then removed the old OEM heater valve from the existing mounting bracket and transferred the new Murray heater valve on to it. It was a perfect fit. The installation is in reverse, only I replaced the left-hand heater hose with some Gates 5/8 heater hose and used some stainless steel clamps to clamp it down.

I made sure all the connections were tight, but not too tight, and then started up the engine and drove around for awhile. Make sure the in-cab heater slider properly turns the valve so that hot is hot and cold is cold That's it. No need to "burp" the coolant system or anything. Any of that air will eventually make its way to the overflow bottle and come out of the system...just make sure to have that heater on to encourage the coolant to flow through the system. Hope this helps other folks!

For a 91 hdj81, If you want to use a Denso part, you can order 87240-60140... it’s 35 - 50$ Plus shipping. I had to order some other parts from amayama So I had one thrown in there. It is counter clockwise close also so you just have Reuse your old bracket and arm. Same fit as the Murray part.

 

[mvlasic23]

For a 91 hdj81, If you want to use a Denso part, you can order 87240-60140... it’s 35 - 50$ Plus shipping. I had to order some other parts from amayama So I had one thrown in there. It is counter clockwise close also so you just have Reuse your old bracket and arm. Same fit as the Murray part.

I buggered it up first order and got the 87240-60130 for my 91 HDJ81... Bugger. Have you or anyone actually tried using 87240-60140? Did it do the trick, don't want to make the wrong decision twice. Much appreciated.

 

[mvlasic23]

Adding to above message, my car is a RHD!

 

[mvlasic23]

This was great! Problem fixed

 

[Bdbierman]

This was great! Problem fixed

Hey dude - so did the 87240-60140 work? your rig is a 1991 RHD? Just want to confirm. Thanks mate

 

[mvlasic23]

Hey dude - so did the 87240-60140 work? your rig is a 1991 RHD? Just want to confirm. Thanks mate

Hey mate, mines a 1991 RHD. In the end I ran with the Four Seasons 74642, and followed HillCountryTX steps above.

I purchased from here:

HVAC Heater Control Valve-Heater Valve|Four Seasons 74642 - Fast Shipping | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HVAC Heater Control Valve-Heater Valve|Four Seasons 74642 - Fast Shipping at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I never attempted the 87240-60140 solution in the end as I was happy with the above approach.

My old tap had seized up and only heaters worked. After this fix everything is now running flawlessly, ice cold air!!!!

Hope that helps.

 

[andrewhofmeyr]

So, I just had a shop replace my heater valve. They put in a Napa valve part no.# NHG H1999 https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NHGH1999?impressionRank=1
I'll add pics below...

Does the installation look like its been done correctly?


Also is this a proper valve?


Cheers

 

[mvlasic23]

So, I just had a shop replace my heater valve. They put in a Napa valve part no.# NHG H1999 https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NHGH1999?impressionRank=1
I'll add pics below...

Does the installation look like its been done correctly?


Also is this a proper valve?


Cheers


View attachment 2854179View attachment 2854180View attachment 2854182

Are you able to regulate the temperature? Normally the tap is attached to the body of the vehicle to secure the tap in place. Regulate temp in the car and have someone look in the engine as you do this to see if it is opening and closing. Perhaps he has secured below the tap and its just not visible in these photos. If it works then fine

 

[andrewhofmeyr]

Are you able to regulate the temperature? Normally the tap is attached to the body of the vehicle to secure the tap in place. Regulate temp in the car and have someone look in the engine as you do this to see if it is opening and closing. Perhaps he has secured below the tap and its just not visible in these photos. If it works then fine

I did switch between hot and cold while driving and it seems to be working fine
Although I noticed in other photos that people had the arrow on the valve facing the opposite direction. Does this matter?