HDJ81/1HD-T Blown Head gasket... I think ...

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Joined
Nov 21, 2012
Threads
19
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149
Location
Vancouver, BC
After having no related problems with my truck, I completed a 1500 km drive today from Salt Lake City to Vancouver. There are quite afew high mountain climbs on this trip and the speed limits are generally in the 70-80 MPH range so I made sure to keep a close eye on my temp gauge in cash of overheating. My truck usually runs at 80C and will heat up to as much as 90C under highway speeds, uphill or low-range up hill etc but then comes back down. Not surprising my truck was running in the 85-90C range a good portion of this trip.

I stopped 3 times for fuel and each time checked my oil (looked fine) and can't recall if I checked coolant or not but don't recall any issues, if I did.

Anyway, I was pretty much highway speeds the whole trip so the +5-10C temps were normal but once I got back into Vancouver, I noticed they didn't go back down to 80C. This was unusual as they normally will drop right back down when I let off the gas, go downhill etc. I drove about 10 mins to my house and they stayed this way, but never increased over 90C.

When I parked in my driveway, I opened the hood and noticed that the radiator overflow was to the brim and it was wet around the battery tray. The top hose was rock hard. Sighs ....

After giving the truck an hour or so to cool, I went out and opened the radiator cap and got a strong hissing noise and coolant began getting sucked back into the radiator but not enough to fill it. I ended up using a funnel to pour the overflow tank into the radiator directly and got it full. I then added about 2 cups of water to the overflow tank to get it back to level.

To see if this problem was going to happen again I drove around the block about 5 times until I got back up to temperature and went a good 15 mins without it going above 80C.

From reading other threads thought it seems as often a head gasket or other problem inside the engine can go undetected at low levels as the radiator pushes the air into the overflow tank and sucks in liquid coolant from the bottom.

The easy solutions (i.e. rad cap) were going to be my first step along with an exhaust gas test of the radiator but as I was checking the level I heard a ticking noise .... After about 10 mins of looking I saw bubbles coming out of the #6 cylinder by the head gasket. I also checked my oil and I am now down a quart (from last checking about 200 miles earlier).

To me it seems like a foregone conclusion that my engine will be coming apart but maybe someone can talk me off the ledge? And just how my luck has been, I am worried its going to be more than the gasket. If the head is cracked or something along those lines I don't know what I am going to do ... I love my truck but there aren't really 1HD-Ts sitting in wreckers for parts.

I guess I don't really have a question but would love to hear some thoughts ....
 
It always seems to be the number 6 too.... s***ty.

hope its just the head gasket and nothing more!
 
It always seems to be the number 6 too.... s***ty.

hope its just the head gasket and nothing more!


Does not seem to matter the engine if its a straight 6 it will blow #6. 1FZ, 7M, 1HD.....


...via IH8MUD app
 
Soo with the symptoms can't see it being anything other than a HG or cracked head? I can't but just wanna make sure I am not jumping to the worst...

I thought about changing the rad cap but the bubbles made me jump to HG. But I did find a thread of someone that had this and determined it just to be the intake manifold leaking oil and accumulating there and bubbling as it heated up.

Problem with trying to diagnose is that it hasn't done this other than on a long high RPM trip.
 
The machanic I got to look at the truck (John @ ATEB) did a leak-down test on each cylinder and said he saw that they held pressure and saw no bubbles coming through the coolant. He didn't see the bubbles I saw from the #6 HG and thought it was likely oil that had leaked bubbling (I do have a leaky intake manifold).

He said the fan clutch was shot and the rad needed to be replaced.

I think this is obviously good news, but still can't figure out how a rad/fan could cause air to get in the coolant WITHOUT the truck overheating. I get that if a truck overheats, the coolant boils and bubbles overflow the coolant but in my case the truck ran at operating temperature all along.

Any thoughts?
 
So there is one thing I have not seen mentioned along with all of these overheating issues .... and that is an issue I am having..... 94 / ... Out of 7 days last week I had 1 day on my way to work (only 15 miles, 1/2 city and 1/2 hwy .... ) where the Heat blowing out of the heater went COLD, and then the Temp gauge showed the engine was heating up pretty quick.. ... This really only happens going 50-60+, and stops once I slow down / let up on the pedal. It has been overflowing into the overflow container pretty steadily,filling up about twice in a week. i just replaced the radiator , thermostat, and a couple hoses. Anny thoughts?

it has been suggested that the head gasket may be leaking, perhaps bubbles in the cooling system, faulty radiator cap ( replaced) .

One side note is that the insides of the overflow and the radiator stink, not really like straight colland, bit more like dirty oil or exhaughts sort of ....

Thanks, Steven, Loveland, CO
1994 Cruiser / 1978 CJ-5 (don't hate me for that)
 
So there is one thing I have not seen mentioned along with all of these overheating issues .... and that is an issue I am having..... 94 / ... Out of 7 days last week I had 1 day on my way to work (only 15 miles, 1/2 city and 1/2 hwy .... ) where the Heat blowing out of the heater went COLD, and then the Temp gauge showed the engine was heating up pretty quick.. ... This really only happens going 50-60+, and stops once I slow down / let up on the pedal. It has been overflowing into the overflow container pretty steadily,filling up about twice in a week. i just replaced the radiator , thermostat, and a couple hoses. Anny thoughts?

it has been suggested that the head gasket may be leaking, perhaps bubbles in the cooling system, faulty radiator cap ( replaced) .

One side note is that the insides of the overflow and the radiator stink, not really like straight colland, bit more like dirty oil or exhaughts sort of ....

Thanks, Steven, Loveland, CO
1994 Cruiser / 1978 CJ-5 (don't hate me for that)

Is your cruiser an FZJ80 or an HDJ81? Different engines, so the same advice may not apply.
 
Steven,

I think my symptoms were different than the ones you describe. I had heat blowing hot, and no overheating on either my aftermarket (top rad hose) or factory guages. The only thing that happened was that the coolant level rose and overflowed after a 15 hr drive with lots of hill climbs.

After bringing it to a shop that specializes in diesel cruisers, they were confident that I have no blown HG, cracked head etc. They came to this conclusion by pressurizing the cooling system and seeing that it held pressure and pressurizing each cylinder (120 psi) and seeing that each cylinder held pressure. They said my rad was clogged and fan was shot.

I replaced the fan clutch and rad, if anything, it is good preventative maintaince for my drive to Moab this summer where it will be hot. I don't personally understand how a rad would cause raising/overflowing coolant without overheating but regardless I have had no issues since. But I also have not done a prolongued high-load/high boots drive since, so I do remain skeptical. That being said, I had talked to others with similar symptoms who noted that it never got wose over time. So, if it is just a matter of having to pour my overflow back into the rad on my 1-2 long drives each year then I think I will deal with that until it gets worse. If a leak-down test doesnt' cause alarm any crack/leak is so minor that it likely isn't affecting performance enough to warrant an engine rebuild.
 
back pressure from a partially clogged rad would cause enough pressure to outperform the 13 PSI cap. You might still get enough flow to cool the engine, but you probably are building more pressure than you would normally with a fully flowing radiator.

Essentially your water pump created the extra pressure trying to push the coolant through a restricted rad. When the pressure got higher than 13psi, then it went to the overflow tank and made the top outlet hose rock hard. Best case scenario as a radiator is cheap compared to a head gasket replacement or a cracked head! Great luck!

As long as your rad is flowing now, you shouldn't get any more excessive overflow unless something else is going wrong. To be safe, I would flush the cooling system a few times to be sure any stuff that could block it again is flushed out.... I would flush from top hose to bottom hose through the engine to keep from flushing anything into that nice new radiator of yours!
 
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Awesome tips ! thanks ... i'll give it a shot and see what happens .... new info is that is only seems.to everheat in morning, and should ha e mentioned this is an.FZ , not a diesel .. wrong thread, sorry
 
Breckenridge, thanks. That does seem like a plausible explanation.

And yes I did a flush before the new rad went on.

So far, so good. Now just to try it out on a long trip.

The leakdown and read pressure tests make an internal engine problem less likely so that's good.
 
Engines makes heat, rad cools fluid and all is good.
In your case the engine made more heat than the rad/fan/waterpump can disapate so pressure builds up like a steaming tea kettle and overcomes rad cap psi... therefore dumping coolant into the overflow to relieve pressure.
During a hot shutdown this process will continue....hence boiling and bubbling
If and when you shut off the engine and as engine cools we have a vacuum which then draws coolant back into the rad back into the rad.
This is a closed system when working properly.

Coolant raises the boiling point of water and lowers the freezing point besides adding other useful properties.

Rad caps increase pressure, again raising the temperature at which your coolant will boil.

Therefore routinely check your overflow, hot and cold, this can save you in the long run because it indicates potential problems.

Remeber to check/replace old coolant hoses as heat and pressure can blow a hose.
 
Sounds like you dodged a bullet! Nice work... I have had no fun with my coolant systems in the past so now they are the first thing I look into when I get into a new truck... Amazing how many POs neglect the system considering how important it is for keeping the truck out of the shop! Also, it takes a long time to reverse some of the things that can happen with a few years of neglect early on. With your new Rad you should be in good shape as it sounds like you checked through the rest of the system thoroughly.
 
Squash - right, what you're saying makes sense, in general but I don't see how that would happen without any overheating - that was my only thought.
 
I had the same problem with mine running the same temps as u and not over heating did the leak down test came back good and a tk test also come back good. everything in the cooling system was replaced and still would push the coolant out the over flow. Around town and slow driving she was fine but hiway hills would cause it to over flow. I ended up pulling the head off and found a blown gasket replaced it and now all good. Just something else to think about
 

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