HDJ81 1HD-T BEB replaced (1 Viewer)

[wussyPup]

I finally finished replacing the connecting rod big end bearings (BEBs) in the 1HD-T in my 1990 HDJ81 with about 137,000 Km. They all looked better than I expected except for the top of #5 (numbered front to back).

Ouch:

But at least the crank looked OK:

The new ACLs were pretty, and Mot taught me to always take a picture of the box:

All of the new installed ACLs BEBs plasti-gauged between .0015" and .002".

If I get my act together, I'll do a writeup for other 1/4 banana owners like me - the rest of you can chuckle.

-Steve (IH8FIPG)

 

[Radd Cruisers]

WOW, worst ones I have ever seen.


Good thing the bearing is meant to take the brunt and not hurt the crank.



Rob

 

[96forerunner]

Couple questions

Sorry to cut into this thread but I have a few questions regarding this topic as I am just about convinced to purchase a RHD Diesel Cruiser that is for sale nearby.

1. If I am understanding correctly, the BEB (which are really the Connecting rod bearings and Crankshaft bearings??) can be replaced by ONLY removing the Oil Pan??? And of course the rest is self expanatory.

2. What is the difference if any between a 1hd-t and a hdj81? Is this the same thing...sorry I am a bit confused.

3. Other than the engine/tranny, is the remainder of a Diesel 80 series the same as the Petrol version? ie. drivetrain etc..

Sorry if I am asking searchable questions, I tried and did not find the exact answers I was looking for.

 

[wussyPup]

1. Yes, the BEBs are the bearing shells in the big end of the connecting rod around the crankshaft. Yes, the most difficult step (for me) was cutting the Formed In Place Gasket (FIPG) to drop the oil pan. I have a small lift and worked under the Cruiser without having to jack anything up to remove the pan or swap the BEBs.

2. 1HD-T is the model number of the engine fitted to the early HDJ80 and HDJ81.

3. Some FJ80s also have the A442F. I believe that the rest of the drivetrain is the same but the JDM models may hava gotten some things (like rear disk brakes) earlier than other markets. Also, they had adjustable shocks that I don't know if were offered in other markets.

G'luck, -Steve

 

[chet]

good catch Steve! Would have sucked to have a problem in the interior!!!

 

[Radd Cruisers]

How long for your first install?

Rob

 

[curious1]

I found the hardest part was the removal of the pan. The sealer Toyota uses makes it very hard to remove. It is like a glue. I ended up making a tool out of some 20 guage sheet metal to aid in the removal. I started with a piece of sheet metal that was 1.5" wide and about 3" long. I gave it a 90 degree bend about 1" in. I sharpened the 1" side like a razor and then worked it between the pan an block. I then tapped it around with a hammer to cut through sealer and little by little peel the pan away. I had started to use razors which kept breaking and prompted me to make this tool. It is a good idea to remove the cast iron stiffener brackets that connect to the tranny and block to aid in removing and installing the pan. Following the correct torque procedures is also easy. I turned the motor by turning the crank bolt. I purchased my BEB bearings from Sheldon at G&S. Very fast shipping and great service.

 

[Greg_B]

wussyPup, I am not happy to see that connecting rod bearing, but am happy you did them sooner rather then later.

This is simply more data that shows it simply is a must do, to have peace of mind. It appears high sodium engine oil in Japan are not saving these bearings from their fate.

gb

 

[speycaster]

Hi Greg, does that problem show up in the 13bt engine too? I pick mine up from south Langley on monday. Then to the muffler shop for a 3 inch system.

 

[Greg_B]

Hi Greg, does that problem show up in the 13bt engine too? I pick mine up from south Langley on monday. Then to the muffler shop for a 3 inch system.

No.

Enjoy your repowered ride!

gb

 

[wussyPup]

Here are a few pictures taken while replacing the BEBs from the 1HD-T in my 1990 HDJ81 at 136,700 Km.

This first composite, shows all of the BEBs. The top halves are on top, with #1 (front) at left, and #6 (rear) at right.

Most of the remaining pictures were taken during re-assembly, but are displayed in the dis-assembly order.

The first step is to remove the oil pan. This will be a lot easier with the front and LHS engine under covers and the 2 cast stiffener plates (between engine block and transmission housing) removed. To get to the front engine under cover, the plate for the steering stabilizer needs to be removed, this will also allow access to the end of the crankshaft.

The 2 bolts holding the steering stabilizer, and obove it is the front engine under cover.

Stiffener plate (LHS).

Stiffener plate (RHS).

The oil pan is sealed with a Formed in Place Gasket (FIPG) which bonds to both the pan and block, and is a PITA to remove. The FSM says to use a gasket cutter to break the seal. Next 2 pictures show my pathetic attempts to create a gasket cutter.

First attempt at gasket cutter - too bulky.

Second attempt - too weak; should have been wider.

After dropping the oil pan, the oil pickup and screen assembly need to come off. Even after the Cruiser had sat for a week, the oil pickup was still full of oil and as soon as the seal to the block was cracked about a cup of oil dumped out. You don't want to be laying under it when that happens; ask me how I know.

Oil pickup and screen.

A 32mm socket can be used to rotate the crankshaft to bring each cylinder to the bottom.

Connecting rod cap ready for removal.

After cleaning, plasti-gauge is used to measure the oil clearance between the bearing surface and the crankshaft.

New plasti-gauge placed on new bearing, ready to install.

Used plasti-gauge stuck to crankshaft. Once squished, it's a lot easier to remove it from the crankshaft than the bearings; I found that a soft plastic pen cap ended up working well.

Bolts tightened to torque and then 90 degrees more; note the blue dots on the bolt heads; use a 12mm 12 point socket.

This is the steel gasket for the oil pickup; the FSM says to replace, but I didn't.

-Steve

 

[fe sus]

thanks for the write up... I purchased a set of bearings for my 3B and feel more confident about swapping them now... I replaced the oil pan gasket with a synthetic cork aftermarket deal so hopefully I can avoid dealing with that again... bearings for the 3B come in different sizes... what is the result of using bearings that are thicker or thinner than stock? Thanks.

 

[61ihc]

hey thanks steve,

I just purchased my bearings and will be doing them soon, I'm at 112k on my hdj81. did you reuse your old bolts and if so i'm assuming you had no problems turning them the 90 degrees? Just wondering if it makes sense to go with new ones. thanks.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

hey thanks steve,

I just purchased my bearings and will be doing them soon, I'm at 112k on my hdj81. did you reuse your old bolts and if so i'm assuming you had no problems turning them the 90 degrees? Just wondering if it makes sense to go with new ones. thanks.

In the case of the HD-T the specs allow you to reuse the bolts.

Just did a head on a f*&d piece of C&*P and the kit came with new bolts.


Nice pics and description.

Rob

 

[Greg_B]

thanks for the write up... I purchased a set of bearings for my 3B and feel more confident about swapping them now... I replaced the oil pan gasket with a synthetic cork aftermarket deal so hopefully I can avoid dealing with that again... bearings for the 3B come in different sizes... what is the result of using bearings that are thicker or thinner than stock? Thanks.

Why are you doing the connecting rod bearings on the 3B? They are not an issue like the HD-T/HZ factory bearings.

Could = a world of hurt if they do not plastiguage in spec.

hth's

gb

 

[wussyPup]

what is the result of using bearings that are thicker or thinner than stock?

I'm just learning how to work on my Cruiser and have very little experience; so please don't consider me as an authority.

It's not so much a matter of just the bearing sizes; it's the size of the oil clearance between the bearing surface and the journal that matters. Thicker bearings and a ground journal could yield a clearance within spec; as could thinner bearings and an over-sized journal. Plasti-gauge is our friend.

If my oil clearance were too large (or small) then I would look for thicker (or thinner) bearings and hope that I didn't have to resurface the crankshaft journals too. I would think that an out of spec oil clearance would probably be accompanied by an out of round journal.

 

[wussyPup]

did you reuse your old bolts and if so i'm assuming you had no problems turning them the 90 degrees?

I reused the old bolts and did not have any trouble with the torque plus 90 degrees. The FSM advises us to measure the length of the bolts and compare with new ones; I didn't have new ones so didn't do the comparison.

 

[mot]

If I get my act together, I'll do a writeup for other 1/4 banana owners like me...

Steve,

If you're a 1/4 banana man, that would make me something like a 1/40 or 1/160 banana man!

I'll have to pay someone to do it for me, that's for sure!

Nice write-up and I AM proud of you that you remember to take a picture of the package.

Mot

 

[wussyPup]

James had a question about how to apply the packing. Copied without permission from the FSM:

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Great thread, deserves a bump.........

Did a set of beariings today, worst I have ever seen, guessing the one was near ready to fail...

No question in my mind any more, they need replacing or its like playing Russian roulette....