boozewz
SILVER Star
Builds HDJ80 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Lo2aY
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
@boozewz The motor is done and ready to be installed. About to do a compression test and see how it looks.
The Frame is separated from the body for a good wash and inspection for cracks or corrosion. We ended up bridging the rear cargo area from the bottom of the floorboard. I just hate how they sag with weight. So we bridged multiple areas to help distribute the load. It's really an overkill as I'm planning to run a drawer system in the rear.
I have Dynomax/Dynoliner inbound from the states to do all of the interior.
The JDM seats are heading to the upholstery shop to make seat covers.
Last week, the tub was primed and ready for paint. Last minute decision came to pull the frame out and look it over. That slowed things down at the body shop.
We need to find headliner that doesn't have cutouts for the rear AC system. I deleted the rear AC and need to find a headliner that will work.
It's funny how I came back to mud looking for a solution to run the Pyrometer/EGT system.
Also looking into Pre-fuel filter. It would suck to get this motor/fuel system contaminated with water or dirt. It's funny how the 80 is one of the most popular toyota vehicles, yet, it's really hard to find a complete pre-filter kit for it!!?!
I'm also trying to find the ID numbers for the H151 and H150 trans. I can't really find any numbers on the outside. Not sure how you guys can ID them apart?
I'll follow up with decent pictures once I get the truck back from the Bodyshop. I was promised this week. Knowing bodyshops, they never deliver on time lol.
The Frame is separated from the body for a good wash and inspection for cracks or corrosion. We ended up bridging the rear cargo area from the bottom of the floorboard. I just hate how they sag with weight. So we bridged multiple areas to help distribute the load. It's really an overkill as I'm planning to run a drawer system in the rear.
I have Dynomax/Dynoliner inbound from the states to do all of the interior.
The JDM seats are heading to the upholstery shop to make seat covers.
Last week, the tub was primed and ready for paint. Last minute decision came to pull the frame out and look it over. That slowed things down at the body shop.
We need to find headliner that doesn't have cutouts for the rear AC system. I deleted the rear AC and need to find a headliner that will work.
It's funny how I came back to mud looking for a solution to run the Pyrometer/EGT system.
Also looking into Pre-fuel filter. It would suck to get this motor/fuel system contaminated with water or dirt. It's funny how the 80 is one of the most popular toyota vehicles, yet, it's really hard to find a complete pre-filter kit for it!!?!
I'm also trying to find the ID numbers for the H151 and H150 trans. I can't really find any numbers on the outside. Not sure how you guys can ID them apart?
I'll follow up with decent pictures once I get the truck back from the Bodyshop. I was promised this week. Knowing bodyshops, they never deliver on time lol.
boozewz
SILVER Star
Great stuff!
Re pryomoter, I run mine pre turbo, and it works very well. A lot of guys prefer running it pre rather than post turbo for a more true reading of heat.
As for the gearbox, the VIN plate should have the info. My HZJ80 has a H150F. Did your 1HDT come with a trans? Put it side by side with your H150F and compare?
How did you source the JDM seats? Should be a super nice upgrade while keeping it all original.
Re pryomoter, I run mine pre turbo, and it works very well. A lot of guys prefer running it pre rather than post turbo for a more true reading of heat.
As for the gearbox, the VIN plate should have the info. My HZJ80 has a H150F. Did your 1HDT come with a trans? Put it side by side with your H150F and compare?
How did you source the JDM seats? Should be a super nice upgrade while keeping it all original.
- Thread starter
- #44
Indeed. Looking forward to driving it.
My motor is a 1HD-FT not 1HDT. Not sure if that makes a difference in the trans choices. The motor I found was backed with an Auto trans. So it really doesn't help to compare. I read somewhere that the gas models have the H151 and the 1HZ is backed by the 150. From what I read, the strength is the same, just different gearing (1st 2nd gears are taller).
I'll probably go pre-turbo. would be easier to do now than later when the motor is in.
Did you ever get the A-pillar gauge mount? I really want to clean up the interior is much as possible. 2 or 3 gauges on the A-pillar for all the added gauges would be perfect.
The seats I have an issue with. The JDM controls are on the wrong side. I need to move them to the LHD. If I swap the seat brackets, I'm gonna have the controls facing towards the center console. This will be difficult to control. I don't want to hack it up. These seats are amazing. Factory cloth and full adjustment. Once that's figured out, I want to add seat covers in slate or khaki. How are your's holding up @boozewz ?
My motor is a 1HD-FT not 1HDT. Not sure if that makes a difference in the trans choices. The motor I found was backed with an Auto trans. So it really doesn't help to compare. I read somewhere that the gas models have the H151 and the 1HZ is backed by the 150. From what I read, the strength is the same, just different gearing (1st 2nd gears are taller).
I'll probably go pre-turbo. would be easier to do now than later when the motor is in.
Did you ever get the A-pillar gauge mount? I really want to clean up the interior is much as possible. 2 or 3 gauges on the A-pillar for all the added gauges would be perfect.
The seats I have an issue with. The JDM controls are on the wrong side. I need to move them to the LHD. If I swap the seat brackets, I'm gonna have the controls facing towards the center console. This will be difficult to control. I don't want to hack it up. These seats are amazing. Factory cloth and full adjustment. Once that's figured out, I want to add seat covers in slate or khaki. How are your's holding up @boozewz ?
I don't have a Toy diesel, but do have a Ford 7.3 super duty. I did research on where to install the EGT gauge and the consensis seems to be pre turbo. I suspect its the same for a Toy diesel.
Wish I was back in Abu Dhabi searching for diesel 80's again!
Ned
Wish I was back in Abu Dhabi searching for diesel 80's again!
Ned
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
why you did that ...?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
but that's another evaporator there in the back .. another blower = more cooled air ..
boozewz
SILVER Star
Didn't get the A Pillar pods for the gauges. Decided to put the EGT and boost just below the AC controls. I rarely check EGT unless I'm hitting the mountain passes. On the highway I'm pretty much used to knowing what the temps are at the speeds I'm running so I'll check it from time to time, hence don't want them on the A pillar. Hope that helps
- Thread starter
- #50
@Tapage The front/rear and fridge run on one compressor. In my experience, when I have all 3 on. The compressor has a hard time cooling all 3 at the same. I assumed it was a bad compressor, so I refreshed the system and got a new OEM compressor. Still gave me the same results. Given the application it will be used for. It only makes sense to delete it. No need to cool my gear lol.
@boozewz My only concern is when I add more boost. Trying to keep EGTs low in Saudi will be tough especially when driving in dunes. On my work truck, I don't really have the EGT page on. It's set for auto alarm. So it's a different setup. Maybe move it to the overhead console?
@boozewz My only concern is when I add more boost. Trying to keep EGTs low in Saudi will be tough especially when driving in dunes. On my work truck, I don't really have the EGT page on. It's set for auto alarm. So it's a different setup. Maybe move it to the overhead console?
- Thread starter
- #51
Update from the desert land.
We separatedthe tub and chassis for a quick clean up and inspection. Was also a great opportunity to replace the 16 year old body mounts.
The body is painted at this point. We also reinforced the bed. I'll have to get a picture of that. We used small square pipes across the bed to help distribute the load.
The motor has been refreshed and waiting on the EGT probe. Once we getit and install it we can then get the motor in.
Dynamat and dynaliners are waiting here to be installed. We are going after the hole shellsyarat. Including firewall inside the truck. There's a bridge for the steering rack. These are notorious rusting as they are shipped without any Paint from the factory. So we are going to spray it and call it good.
As you can see. The truck has been defendered. Have OEM glass and fresh oem seals going in as well.
The 16x6 wheels were also sent to get color matched to the truck. Purely aesthetics.
We are drilling a hole in the roof (rear). To run all wiring for the roof rack. I plan to have lights and radio wiring feeding through it. This should help with adding and removing accessories.
I'm still looking for an aux fuel filter setup.
We separatedthe tub and chassis for a quick clean up and inspection. Was also a great opportunity to replace the 16 year old body mounts.
The body is painted at this point. We also reinforced the bed. I'll have to get a picture of that. We used small square pipes across the bed to help distribute the load.
The motor has been refreshed and waiting on the EGT probe. Once we getit and install it we can then get the motor in.
Dynamat and dynaliners are waiting here to be installed. We are going after the hole shellsyarat. Including firewall inside the truck. There's a bridge for the steering rack. These are notorious rusting as they are shipped without any Paint from the factory. So we are going to spray it and call it good.
As you can see. The truck has been defendered. Have OEM glass and fresh oem seals going in as well.
The 16x6 wheels were also sent to get color matched to the truck. Purely aesthetics.
We are drilling a hole in the roof (rear). To run all wiring for the roof rack. I plan to have lights and radio wiring feeding through it. This should help with adding and removing accessories.
I'm still looking for an aux fuel filter setup.
- Thread starter
- #52
Two more
- Thread starter
- #53
@boozewz I ended up ordering this unit temporarily till I find a permanent solution.
Amazon.com: 3in1 Black Face Pyrometer, Digital Boost, and Temperature Gauge: Automotive
I got this unit to keep an eye on boost and EGTs.
Amazon.com: 3in1 Black Face Pyrometer, Digital Boost, and Temperature Gauge: Automotive
I got this unit to keep an eye on boost and EGTs.
boozewz
SILVER Star
Some very nice progress!
How's it coming along now? Sorted out the FIP calibration?
How's it coming along now? Sorted out the FIP calibration?
- Thread starter
- #55
The motor is in! most of the dash and wiring figured out. I wanted that factory boost light to work. So we wired it. It wasn't too bad.
The interior is fully sound and heat insulated. That includes the firewall. Inside and out.
I tried to use the JDM harness going into the dash. So that it's all plug and play. Man was I wrong! Almost everything was in the wrong place. That meant wiring had to be long in areas and short in areas. That's not the problem. The killer for that idea was accessories. Different plugs and accessories. We have center coolers. JDM doesn't. ABS was another issue all together.
So I scraped that idea and ended up repairing the original harness and adding to it.
Now we are scratching our heads with the starter system. These motors came with 24V starting system and voltage converter since the rest of the truck is 12V.
I have most of the parts for it. The relay and some other wires and plugs.
I'm not sure why toyota did the 24V start on these motors!?? I could reuse the 1HZ starter and harness. I know it will work. Not sure how it will handle starting this beast.
I was lucky to grab fuel lines. They are different! bigger than the 1HZ ones. So those are going in right now.
I'll post up some pics shortly.
- Thread starter
- #56
EGT sensor installed.
Unloading the truck in my shop
97 stripes
Dynamat
Dynaliner
The rear drum brake axle is replaced to a disc brake rear end.
Engine bay with the new jewel
Wiring behind the dash
Dash is back in
IC updated
I have an oil catch can going in and AUX fuel filter to be installed after initial testing and tuning.
FIP calibration is left stock at the moment. Going to start and see how it does and start adjusting from there. apparently, we can get a little more torque down below by adjusting the FIP settings. I'll play with it as soon as I have a few miles on the freshly rebuilt motor.
Unloading the truck in my shop
97 stripes
Dynamat
Dynaliner
The rear drum brake axle is replaced to a disc brake rear end.
Engine bay with the new jewel
Wiring behind the dash
Dash is back in
IC updated
I have an oil catch can going in and AUX fuel filter to be installed after initial testing and tuning.
FIP calibration is left stock at the moment. Going to start and see how it does and start adjusting from there. apparently, we can get a little more torque down below by adjusting the FIP settings. I'll play with it as soon as I have a few miles on the freshly rebuilt motor.
- Thread starter
- #58
Thank you!
You may want to look at @boozewz thread. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/783728-1990-hzj80-mini-refurb-saudi-arabia.html
His rebuild inspired mine to be honest. I was just going to slap the new motor in and call it good lol.
- Thread starter
- #59
Anyone know what is the torque spec for the body mount nuts? There are 12 and I can't find it in the manual or interwebs.
- Thread starter
- #60
Update:
We got most of the gauges to work. Also adapted the turbo light in the tach gauge to the factory IC. I moved the tach gauge out of the JDM to the truck but it didn't work. It's powered differently, so we took both gauges apart and integrated the LED with it's diod into the factory gauge. Then changed the tech covers and VOILA! it works. Still need to verify engine temp, haven't gotten it up to temp for testing.
Having issues with the oil pressure gauge. I can't get it to work. I'm not sure if wiring for the FT is different than 1HZ. anyone have any ideas on this?
We got most of the gauges to work. Also adapted the turbo light in the tach gauge to the factory IC. I moved the tach gauge out of the JDM to the truck but it didn't work. It's powered differently, so we took both gauges apart and integrated the LED with it's diod into the factory gauge. Then changed the tech covers and VOILA! it works. Still need to verify engine temp, haven't gotten it up to temp for testing.
Having issues with the oil pressure gauge. I can't get it to work. I'm not sure if wiring for the FT is different than 1HZ. anyone have any ideas on this?
