Thinking about it a little bit more, you better watch the grease in the hub. Water is going to be able to get in there so once you get the hub repaired, make sure to repack those bearings.
Have FF and disks, check your bearings.
- Thread starter euclid
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If you want, I can go out to my truck later today to measure the pitch.
ntsqd
technerd
I must have missed it, where do the ARP studs come from? Are they an existing stud that ARP makes for something else, or are they something that some vendor has an exclusive on?
euclid
SILVER Star
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- #65
No need. I measured mine, and it matches info on mud an marlin crawler. I'm going to get the tap and go with it.
I got mine from front range. Very good service.
Cool! Seems like a worthwhile, cheap upgrade. I'm assuming you used new cone washers with the supplied studs and locknut?
ntsqd
technerd
Thanks!! I think I'll be upgrading those studs once I get the vee-ate installed.
euclid
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- Thread starter
- #68
No problem. Wanna return the favor?
Check me on this tap:
McMaster-Carr
I guessed on a couple of the things Mcmaster asked, specificaly, Is D5 ok for the pitch diameter?
Talked to the machinist today. He's going to try to get the broken oem studs out of the hub. If successful he will chase the threads. He didn't have the correct tap though.
The remains of broken studs are not hard to remove. Go to the hardware store and get an easy out, the square kind not the spiral ones. Irwin brand is what I bought run a drill into the remaining stud, tap in the easy out and remove the remains.
I think broken studs are mostly from letting them loosen up. Which seems more common on our rear full floats. Check if they are tight, I went to tighten mine and found three mostly broken studs that I finished off trying to tighten them.
When I bought my full float I replaced everything but the studs now all the studs have been replaced. By the way there was no difference in the studs for the rear verse the studs for the front axle. Two part numbers but they were the same part. I didn't see any reason to go to different studs as Toyota built them this way for more than 20 years and the front hubs were built for even longer and I have never broken a front hub stud.
Tony
I think broken studs are mostly from letting them loosen up. Which seems more common on our rear full floats. Check if they are tight, I went to tighten mine and found three mostly broken studs that I finished off trying to tighten them.
When I bought my full float I replaced everything but the studs now all the studs have been replaced. By the way there was no difference in the studs for the rear verse the studs for the front axle. Two part numbers but they were the same part. I didn't see any reason to go to different studs as Toyota built them this way for more than 20 years and the front hubs were built for even longer and I have never broken a front hub stud.
Tony
Forget using a tap. If you want to clean threads use a rethreading set (also called thread chasers). That's all I use if I'm not cutting new threads. Works great and won't take away material.
Tony, I also make sure I use red threadlocker when I reinstall studs. You've gotta really work to get them out if you do, but if you're using Toyota or ARP studs (I really wonder if Toyota's studs use rolled threads like the ARP ones), you shouldn't have any problem with them breaking (assuming the cone washers are installed properly).
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or rear disks
or a 55 gal tank
or a.....
Mind to link me to the thread chaser you are talking about on mcmaster?
I'm not sure if McMaster carries a set. I know Snap-on does (under "rethreading set"). I got a complete one from a local mom & pop hardware store that buys used or surplus tools.
ntsqd
technerd
I had to refresh my memory of the D3/D5 nomenclature as it is not something that I normally deal with. Thread class, yes, but not Pitch Dia. Limits. I wouldn't worry about the difference in this case. The looser limit may actually work in your favor.
I use a tap to chase threaded holes, but I do not use a die to chase rolled threads. It is extremely unlikely that female threads were rolled, so running a tap into them should not be damaging to the root radius of the threads like running a die down rolled male threads will most certainly be. Then again, I only buy taps from machine tool vendors and almost never buy a "hand tap." I nearly exclusively use spiral point machine taps even though I rarely drive them under power. I even grind spiral points to be bottoming taps when necessary.
While I have bought taps from MMC, I prefer to buy them locally when I can. Finding a machine tool supplier can be a trick, but they are out there and worth finding. I would look under "tools" and "industrial supplies" before trying anything like "machine shop supplies".
X eleventeen on only using the square type E-Z Outs. The spiral type wedge the broken part tighter into the part that you're trying to save.
A trick that has worked well for me in centering the center punch mark prior to drilling is to use a transfer punch with whatever the bolt or stud was supposed to hold in place, in place. The hole on the upper part automagically centers the transfer punch on the end of the bolt or stud.
I use a tap to chase threaded holes, but I do not use a die to chase rolled threads. It is extremely unlikely that female threads were rolled, so running a tap into them should not be damaging to the root radius of the threads like running a die down rolled male threads will most certainly be. Then again, I only buy taps from machine tool vendors and almost never buy a "hand tap." I nearly exclusively use spiral point machine taps even though I rarely drive them under power. I even grind spiral points to be bottoming taps when necessary.
While I have bought taps from MMC, I prefer to buy them locally when I can. Finding a machine tool supplier can be a trick, but they are out there and worth finding. I would look under "tools" and "industrial supplies" before trying anything like "machine shop supplies".
X eleventeen on only using the square type E-Z Outs. The spiral type wedge the broken part tighter into the part that you're trying to save.
A trick that has worked well for me in centering the center punch mark prior to drilling is to use a transfer punch with whatever the bolt or stud was supposed to hold in place, in place. The hole on the upper part automagically centers the transfer punch on the end of the bolt or stud.
