Have FF and disks, check your bearings.
- Thread starter euclid
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Greg,
On the wheel bearings from somewhere besides OEM: If you look at the OEM Koyos you'll see the bearing # and HI CAP on them. The others from the parts houses are not the HI CAP versions - they will work but not as long as the OEM. Just my experience and I know you are in a pinch. Good luck and have a great time in TX!
On the wheel bearings from somewhere besides OEM: If you look at the OEM Koyos you'll see the bearing # and HI CAP on them. The others from the parts houses are not the HI CAP versions - they will work but not as long as the OEM. Just my experience and I know you are in a pinch. Good luck and have a great time in TX!
Bodean
Hot Damn
Glad you got it worked out. Good ole Man-a-Fre. Did they give you a tracking number? Keep up with it. We've got to get you rolling!
Later,
Later,
I rebuilt a FF rear and have had problems adjusting the wheel bearings. In order to drive the screw into the lock plate, the nut (the thing the SST goes in) seemed either too loose or too tight. Based on my fish scale I went with too loose but I could hear a tapping sound coming from the rear. After talking with Mark A. and reading your post I tightened the nut one hole. Now the hubs get uncomfortably warm but the tapping noise is gone.
I had a similar issue with my rear bearing preload. No tapping noise but very tight as to what I am used to in putting front ends together.
How long have you been running yours??
clint
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Just finished the passenger side of the axle. I experienced the same thing. Too loose or too tight. I chose too tight. I always go a little tight when I do front axles.
I also got frustrated with my crappy fish scale and threw it in the garbage.
Once again, props to Man-A-Fre. The hub had to be pulled from an intact axle. They shipped it today. 3 day shipping will mean I have it re-assembled by Friday night.
We have pushed the trip back, will be doing Big Bend after Katemcy. It was for other reasons, but I don't mind the extra 5 days that gives me to get the truck in tip top shape.
I also got frustrated with my crappy fish scale and threw it in the garbage.
Once again, props to Man-A-Fre. The hub had to be pulled from an intact axle. They shipped it today. 3 day shipping will mean I have it re-assembled by Friday night.
We have pushed the trip back, will be doing Big Bend after Katemcy. It was for other reasons, but I don't mind the extra 5 days that gives me to get the truck in tip top shape.
Might be the case with some, but NOT the case with the Koyo's I sell, they are the EXACT same part number as the ones that come in an OEM box, just a different color box
. They say "Hi-Cap" just the same...
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #28
All buttoned up. UPS stuck a delivery sticker to my door at 2:30. I found it at 3! I didn't know MAF was going to send it signature required. UPS saved the day though. I called the 800 #. They took my cell number, said they would call back inside an hour. 25 mins later they called with the drivers' cell number. He was 5 mins from the house, I met him to pick up the hub.
One note for future reference. The outermost edge of the hub had to be ground down about 1/8" to get it to fit inside the brake rotor. No big deal.
Sixty helped me with this by email. Here's what he sent:
I believe I had to take about 1/16” off (1/8” off the diameter). I mounted it on the spindle with the bearings greased & all the seals in place. Then I used an angle grinder to spin & grind it at the same time. At just the right angle it will spin the hub & grind it at the same time. You want the hub to spin at about 100 rpms to get a consistent finish.
One note for future reference. The outermost edge of the hub had to be ground down about 1/8" to get it to fit inside the brake rotor. No big deal.
Sixty helped me with this by email. Here's what he sent:
I believe I had to take about 1/16” off (1/8” off the diameter). I mounted it on the spindle with the bearings greased & all the seals in place. Then I used an angle grinder to spin & grind it at the same time. At just the right angle it will spin the hub & grind it at the same time. You want the hub to spin at about 100 rpms to get a consistent finish.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
I only just saw this thread, or I would have jumped on your case earlier.This thread is becoming more of a diary of my coming to understand my rear axle than anything else.
You know what the best part off all this is? You were the one who made fun of me for taking my FF all apart “just to see how it works”
Greg -
Sorry for chiming in with this so late: a good machine shop can clean up the damaged area, weld in new material, & turn it down to spec. You could do this on your old one & have a spare.
I decided to have my rotors turned rather than the hubs, figuring I didn't want to weaken the hubs & I wouldn't be changing rear rotors any time soon.
Sorry for chiming in with this so late: a good machine shop can clean up the damaged area, weld in new material, & turn it down to spec. You could do this on your old one & have a spare.
I decided to have my rotors turned rather than the hubs, figuring I didn't want to weaken the hubs & I wouldn't be changing rear rotors any time soon.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
A year later my outer oil seal is trashed already. Inner grease seal too. I think I had a piece of thin rope wraped around my inner hub from mud riding at the river, which helped the inner seal go sooner rather than later. But the outer oil seal was toast. I'm thinking that is because the inside of the inner bearing is spinning on the axle tube where I had to remove some material. I made some detents on there with a chisle when I re-installed it, but that's temporary at best.
Does anyone know of a source for a nicer oil seal for the full floater than the OEM one? Now that I have Marlins inner oil seal on the front I'm spoiled.
Does anyone know of a source for a nicer oil seal for the full floater than the OEM one? Now that I have Marlins inner oil seal on the front I'm spoiled.
I've never heard of such a thing, but let me know if you find one!
If your bearing is spinning around the spindle, it's gonna look like mine eventually and you'll have to get it welded.
Since I have a FF rear, too, I've been wondering if the Marlin front seal will work in the rear... I believe the axles are the same diameter, as the bearings are the same too ... But when I had mine apart, I didn't think to check it.
The front won't work in the rear. The rear seal is really small and it's right at the end of the spindle.
Also, the front and rear bearing numbers are the same because the spindles are *almost* identical. The axle shafts may be the same size but the bearings ride on the spindles.
ntsqd
technerd
What would happen if you just left out that inner seal and let the wheel bearing run in diff lube rather than grease?
That is the way the Dana's and Corp GM 14 bolt floaters that I've had apart work.
That is the way the Dana's and Corp GM 14 bolt floaters that I've had apart work.
I don't know if the grease seal on the back of the hub would keep the oil in...... I wanna say that it would leak out and contaiminate the brakes.
what did the inner seal look like? was it chewed up or just worn? has anyone tried a speedy sleeve to the shaft to see if a bit extra diameter will help with the seal?
mine on the drivers was leaking but the passenger was fine.
Clint
mine on the drivers was leaking but the passenger was fine.
Clint
