Just wondering how they hold up (warpage) compared to OEM Toyota rotors. Prices are comparable or slightly lower than OEM.
Has anyone used "Mountain" brand brake rotors?
- Thread starter donco
- Start date
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I think spressomon sourced out some good rotors. You might try a quick search to locate them I thought I had the link saved but can’t find it. Sorry. BTW, what part of town are you in?
DMX
DMX
Don't know about those but these are going on my LC when I need to replace the rotors and pads. I used them on a 2000 Audi A6 V8 which are notorious for heat damaged rotors...I could not keep OEM and others from heat warpage on that vehicle...these completely and 100% cured the problem while significantly increasing stopping power and modulation...and saved the expense of having to upsize rotors/calipers etc. on the Audi.
http://member.newsguy.com/~nutech/frames.html
http://member.newsguy.com/~nutech/frames.html
I’m thinking I’m going to redo my rotors and replace all the CV boots while I have everything undone. (It’s my understanding that the shaft needs to be undone at the rotor anyway).
DMX84 said:
Correct. FYI: If you are only looking for a OEM Toyota Boot Kit I have a set I will sell you. I bought them from CDan then decided since I was going to have the whole thing apart...and didn't want to risk doing it again anytime soon...I then bought the complete CV axles from him...
spressomon said:
That link didn’t show the LC’s info? Did you get a quote from them?
Yes I just might take you up on that, PM me the price. I’m thinking about searching the web for some silicone ones. Any suggestions?
DMX84 said:
Yes they make them for our 100's. I think the fronts with their recommended pads was about $275...but that is from memory so be warned! Certainly not the cheapest (may be actually cheaper in the long run) but based on my direct experience with these on the Audi it will be the best.
Dean...PM me your e-mail address and I will send you the FSM bumper page...
EL_3grab said:i think dba is better ..
Don't think so
- Thread starter
- #12
rotors
I'm just north of the University by "The Big-I"
DMX84 said:
I'm just north of the University by "The Big-I"
EL_3grab said:
Don't know...just messin' wichya.
donco said:
Are you having warpage problems with OEM rotors?
Who’s aren’t?
Since I have added a significant amount of additional weight with all the upgrades fading is more of an issue and although mine are not "warped" I can feel pulsating when trying to stop quickly...almost as if the pads are super-heated; then they return to 'normal' and this symptom does not reappear until the next 'panic' type of stop.
- Thread starter
- #18
warped rotors
The wife is out & about with it at moment, so can't slap a dial indictor on it to verify whether they're warped or have hot spots. I'm running the 2nd set of pads since we acquired it at 31k so assuming they're the original rotors. I didn't have them turned the 1st time but new pads wore in fine. Now with the next set, they pulsate but getting better with time. When this set wears down, I'll replace the pads with Bosch or Raybestos QS ceramics (dealer only had semi-metalics) and new rotors. I'm sure by then the old rotors will be beyond the wear limit for turning, prolly are already
Tinkerer said:
The wife is out & about with it at moment, so can't slap a dial indictor on it to verify whether they're warped or have hot spots. I'm running the 2nd set of pads since we acquired it at 31k so assuming they're the original rotors. I didn't have them turned the 1st time but new pads wore in fine. Now with the next set, they pulsate but getting better with time. When this set wears down, I'll replace the pads with Bosch or Raybestos QS ceramics (dealer only had semi-metalics) and new rotors. I'm sure by then the old rotors will be beyond the wear limit for turning, prolly are already
I'm using SP slotted and Hawk pads in front. They made a noticeable difference and are still working great (only 10,000 mi. on them so far)
Bought them from www.raceshopper.com
They recommended slotted rotors for heavy vehicles, not drilled.
Bought them from www.raceshopper.com
They recommended slotted rotors for heavy vehicles, not drilled.
DMX84 said:
My OEM rotors are fine. No pulsating pedal. Factory-smooth. (And BTW, I am VERY sensitive to pulsating brake pedal.)
Front: 91k+ miles, original rotors, original pads. Rotors never touched. Lots of pad left.
Rear: New OEM Toyota rotors & pads at 86k miles - but the OEM ones were 100% smooth up to replacement. (~5k miles on new rotors now.)
Notes:
1. One way to produce pulsating brake pedal is to have rotors turned.
2. Another way to obtain a pulsating pedal is to continue using worn (high-mileage) rotors with new pads.
************
Remember, OEM rotors from a good OEM like Toyota are highly engineered, with extensive metallurgical properties closely-controlled, including heat treating and hardening, with a ground (not machined) hardened braking surface.
Some of the heat treating and hardening may be specific to surface & small depth ("case"), in addition to through-hardness control.
All this means that when you turn (machine) a rotor, you destroy the engineered wear properties of the rotor. At the same time, the thermal mass and stability is degraded.
And that's under the best circumstances.
Under most real world circumstances, it's even worse than the above: You have a rotor machined by an untrained Technician, using a worn-out lathe with whatever speeds & feeds happen to be set up, and using worn-out tooling. Talk about ragging out a braking surface, screwing up the heat treating at the surface, etc.
I've had enough rotors that warped after turning "within min turn limits", that I no longer do it at all.
New pads always get new OEM rotors too, on my vehicles.
No problems at all with pulsating pedals here. Ever.
(Except the last piece of GM crap I owned...but that's a different story...)
