I am going to try to mount some 8" midbasses in my 2001 LX front doors. Before I reinvent the wheel, I wanted to see if anyone has done it and any tips?
Has anyone mounted 8" or larger midbasses in the front doors? (1 Viewer)
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dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Funny, last night I was reading your thread on DIYmobileaudio! I took interest when I saw you too had a 100.
I do not think this forum will have many that have ventured into this area, but be the groundbreaker! Take pics and show the rest how! That is what makes this forum so great.
i know I took an interest as I have a set of BLAM components bought over on DIY that have an 8” but figured they’d have to wait for the next car. They crossover in the 3000 range which is so atypical. Have not listened to them yet.
I only have a basic system, with Jbl components dsp and sub… and couldn’t find the help I needed here, so went to DIY. One cool thing I am working on now, wiring a switch in dash so I can still run the improved-but-still-limited 6” sub in stock location and run the 10” box I built… so if I need to haul anything, I… or next owner… can still have some bass.
I do not think this forum will have many that have ventured into this area, but be the groundbreaker! Take pics and show the rest how! That is what makes this forum so great.
i know I took an interest as I have a set of BLAM components bought over on DIY that have an 8” but figured they’d have to wait for the next car. They crossover in the 3000 range which is so atypical. Have not listened to them yet.
I only have a basic system, with Jbl components dsp and sub… and couldn’t find the help I needed here, so went to DIY. One cool thing I am working on now, wiring a switch in dash so I can still run the improved-but-still-limited 6” sub in stock location and run the 10” box I built… so if I need to haul anything, I… or next owner… can still have some bass.
Have not tried but have contemplated. I was thinking Illusion Audio 8" would be the way to go due to their shallow mounting depth.
I think someone would need to print bolt on mounts to the door metal and then a grill fix. I found my absolute depth mount/clearance of 2.95" minus 2mm.
silver flute has an 8" with a mount depth of 3.39" cutout diameter of 7.2" I would try something like that as first go round.
I'd guess right now that a .5" riser on the door metal 7.2 ID 8" OD and not altering the door metal would get you space for something at 3.4" mount depth.
I only say silver flute because I like them, and they're cheap to mess with.
silver flute has an 8" with a mount depth of 3.39" cutout diameter of 7.2" I would try something like that as first go round.
I'd guess right now that a .5" riser on the door metal 7.2 ID 8" OD and not altering the door metal would get you space for something at 3.4" mount depth.
I only say silver flute because I like them, and they're cheap to mess with.
Once I get the Nav delete completed on my 06, I’ll be attempting to squeeze HAT LSE 8’s in the front doors. LSE 4’s either in the A pillars, or in the top of the doors and some X1’s in the pillars. I’ll be running them active off a Helix P Six.
if there aren’t any answers about the 8’s by the time I get around to it, I’ll be sure to document and post.
if there aren’t any answers about the 8’s by the time I get around to it, I’ll be sure to document and post.
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I have an extra door panel so I took a couple of pictures of how it might fit.
I never have much free time to wrench so I am waiting on supplies to be delivered before I start. I bought a bunch of different size spacers, gaskets and etc. to see what fits the best.
I never have much free time to wrench so I am waiting on supplies to be delivered before I start. I bought a bunch of different size spacers, gaskets and etc. to see what fits the best.
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Bump just in case I find someone that has done it
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Passenger side is done but, I was frustrated & didn’t get many pictures. Hopefully I will have a chance to do the driver’s side tomorrow.
These are the birch spacer/adapters that I had made for my 07 Tacoma front doors. Mr. Marv on TacomaWorld made them for me and I’m hoping they can be modified to help install the HAT 8’s in the front door.
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I am almost finished with my driver’s door now. I am taking a break before I put the door card back on.
In my opinion, if they are much thicker than 3/4” you might run into clearance problems with the door card.
P.S. Before anyone says it, I was using 1” thick adapters with my 6.5” speakers but, the 8” might hit the door card quicker.
In my opinion, if they are much thicker than 3/4” you might run into clearance problems with the door card.
P.S. Before anyone says it, I was using 1” thick adapters with my 6.5” speakers but, the 8” might hit the door card quicker.
I’m not sweating it too much, I’ll make it work. I may even cut through the card, if needed, and fab something up.
The easy answer, for me, is to take the LC and equipment down to Mobile Toys in College Station. Let them deal with it and I’ll just sell a kidney, or two.
The biggest roadblock, for me anyways, is the A/C amp and doing the NAV delete. I just sent a message to my buddy overseas and asked if he could source an A88650-60B80 for me at a reasonable price.
The easy answer, for me, is to take the LC and equipment down to Mobile Toys in College Station. Let them deal with it and I’ll just sell a kidney, or two.
The biggest roadblock, for me anyways, is the A/C amp and doing the NAV delete. I just sent a message to my buddy overseas and asked if he could source an A88650-60B80 for me at a reasonable price.
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I wished I had a SQ shop close by because I wouldn’t be doing the work myself.
The stereo shops in my area just care about SPL
The stereo shops in my area just care about SPL
Give MT a call, maybe they can recommend a shop near by. If not, 500’ish miles and a few days in a college town isn’t the worst idea. Lol
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The speakers sound great to about 3/4 volume & then they rattle the door cards.
So now, I am trying to figure out what else I can do to keep them from vibrating. The sheet metal by itself is good.
So now, I am trying to figure out what else I can do to keep them from vibrating. The sheet metal by itself is good.
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Just to update this thread in case it helps someone in the future. I think I have solved my rattle problem by trimming the door card as much as possible but, still be able to get the 4 screws to fasten the factory OEM grill. By looking through the door card, you can see at least 90% of the speaker in the open grill area.
Then I used 10 pounds of Duct Seal per door card to add mass and to seal up any air leaks and cavities. Then I applied foam sheets that I purchased from ResoNix. It stays clear to louder than I can safely hear and I listen pretty loud!
Then I used 10 pounds of Duct Seal per door card to add mass and to seal up any air leaks and cavities. Then I applied foam sheets that I purchased from ResoNix. It stays clear to louder than I can safely hear and I listen pretty loud!
Nice. Any comment on how it compares to a well-tuned 6.5" and 10" woofer combo? More thud from the front?
What other front stage components are you running?
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In my opinion, most people should be happy with a high quality 6.5" but, I have loved and had many SQ stereo systems for 35+ years now & I still am passionate about them! My main goal is for the 4 main seating positions to have a great SQ experience, soundstage at concert volume levels.
In my opinion the hardest thing to achieve in a car system is the midbass from 70hz to about 250hz. This is because of the size & geometry of a vehicle. (In case you are wondering, the easiest thing is to achieve in a car system is subbass 30hz to 60hz).
To answer your question, my 1st system in my 2001 LX had Focal 165KRX3 (3 way components 6.5", 3" & 1") in the front doors & Focal ES100k as the center channel. Plenty loud but, no matter what I did, I couldn't tame the Focal's to make them sound musical.
I slowly upgraded in multiple steps to AudioFrog GB60, GB25, GB10 in the doors & GB40, GB10 as the center channel. This is a very good sound system that should satisfy most anyone.
I still wasn't getting the midbass that I desired. So then I also installed some 5.25" mini subs in both front footwells and a JBL Fuse to compliment the AudioFrog system above. I could get a very good sound curve but, I wasn't getting the concert volume levels because of having to do too much EQ work.
The reason for the 8" in the front doors is to help reinforce the dip that I had at around 65hz so that I wouldn't have to do so much EQ work and overload the other speakers.
The current system sounds great so far, gets decently loud and I am glad that I done it!
P.S. The rest of the system that I have no complaints about & have never felt the need to change:
Kenwood 9903s
Two AudioFrog GB10D2
Focal ES165k in the rear doors
Focal ES100k behind the 3rd row seats
JBL MS8 Logic7 processor/DSP
Three Arc Audio xDI 1200.6 amps
Two rear mounted batteries
250a Alternator
In my opinion the hardest thing to achieve in a car system is the midbass from 70hz to about 250hz. This is because of the size & geometry of a vehicle. (In case you are wondering, the easiest thing is to achieve in a car system is subbass 30hz to 60hz).
To answer your question, my 1st system in my 2001 LX had Focal 165KRX3 (3 way components 6.5", 3" & 1") in the front doors & Focal ES100k as the center channel. Plenty loud but, no matter what I did, I couldn't tame the Focal's to make them sound musical.
I slowly upgraded in multiple steps to AudioFrog GB60, GB25, GB10 in the doors & GB40, GB10 as the center channel. This is a very good sound system that should satisfy most anyone.
I still wasn't getting the midbass that I desired. So then I also installed some 5.25" mini subs in both front footwells and a JBL Fuse to compliment the AudioFrog system above. I could get a very good sound curve but, I wasn't getting the concert volume levels because of having to do too much EQ work.
The reason for the 8" in the front doors is to help reinforce the dip that I had at around 65hz so that I wouldn't have to do so much EQ work and overload the other speakers.
The current system sounds great so far, gets decently loud and I am glad that I done it!
P.S. The rest of the system that I have no complaints about & have never felt the need to change:
Kenwood 9903s
Two AudioFrog GB10D2
Focal ES165k in the rear doors
Focal ES100k behind the 3rd row seats
JBL MS8 Logic7 processor/DSP
Three Arc Audio xDI 1200.6 amps
Two rear mounted batteries
250a Alternator
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Mud demands pics! Politely.
