Has anyone installed a spark plug non-fouler in their 1FZ-FE?

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The cylinder head has a flat spot for the washer on the Toyota style sparkplug.

Cone seats are for GM type sparkplugs that don't use washers.

Using a cone seat sparkplug in the 1fz can damage the sparkplug seat and seal. Just like using the wrong lugnuts on a rim can cause problems (wheel fall off).

Hope that helps.

FWIW I have zero experience with nonfoulers. In fact, I had to google it to find out what they were.

This EXACTLY the kind of info I was looking for! Thanks so much.

Question...how did ya keep the crush washers in place with the non-fouler as you lowered it down into the spark plug tube?
 
Yours looks oil fouled.

Yup, that's the impression I had as well.

I believe the idea is that the antifouler keeps the plug electrode up out of the oil slop that would foul it. Just a temp patch up to keep the cylinder from immediately fouling until you can tear it apart or sell it.

Pretty much sums up the purpose of why I'm having to do this interim solution. Just the beginning of a long road I fear.

Serious piston/ring/cylinder problem.

That was also said recently as a potential root cause after a recent discussion at our local LC club meeting. Ugh!

I'm not necessarily afraid of a complicated rebuild, but I don't have a garage to tackle the project in, nor is my loaner vehicle an open-ended option. Might just have to find a donor engine from a wreck in the DC Metro area (or further out if necessary).
 
IdahoDoug,

I've replaced the wires & distributor cap before without any significant change.

I'm gonna give the anti-fouler a shot to see how it runs, but I'm pretty sure I'll be tearing off the intake manifold and pulling the injectors to be tested. I don't know of any local shops in Northern VA area that does the fuel injector service, but I also haven't done a serious search yet, to be honest. LC Engineering is one option I've heard and read about many folks using.

Any/all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks, fellas.
 
This EXACTLY the kind of info I was looking for! Thanks so much.

Question...how did ya keep the crush washers in place with the non-fouler as you lowered it down into the spark plug tube?

On a sparkplug they're stuck to the plug and don't fall off. On a non fouler if they're not attached you can use a long screwdriver or similar to feed it down to the plug hole and then install the plug n non fouler as a unit?
 
You can test your injector yourself per the FSM.
Here is what I did.

"I just pulled the injectors and did a redneck bench test.
Filled a hose with Seafoam and put it on the injector. Hooked the hose to a hand pump and put 12 volts to the injector and pumped. They all were not plugged and both holes of the injector sprayed out a stream like a squirt gun. Not sure how they should spray but they all sprayed the same so its good enough for me."

If you do it your self I would say have some gasoline on hand as I didn't and had to use Seafoam. Might be good or bad. I also didn't have any gas to lube the injector O rings so I used Seafoam again...

You can do a volume test if you have an old fuel pump and regulator. I didn't keep my old pump when I replaced mine (should of kept it). You could pull the pump/reg off vehicle if you were hard up.

I had no leaking and good spray so I see no reason to send my injectors out. If they were bad I would of had some sign of them being bad over the last 180,000 miles that I have owned the vehicle.

But if you have a second vehicle to drive and can have the vehicle down for several days, then send them out for testing/cleaning.
 
Update please

So, what was the outcome of the anti fouler? did it work? Does the fouler raise the plug up in the tube making the tube seal and wire not fit or function properly? Also, I had plugs that were oil fouled and it turned out the tube seals in the block were shot on 2 pistons and allowing oil to seep in and foul my plug. Had to buy a blind hole puller and new seats. fixed the problem. Still want to know if the anti fouler worked for you...
 

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