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So basically just like Mud?? Kidding!! I like it a lot here, people are nice and always willing to help.....unless you post beach and/or beach attire pics, then it just gets weird and ultra conservative.
If you are saying you are looking for an outlet to post less conservative beach attire pics - then you have my permission to PM me!
job.
If you are saying you are looking for an outlet to post less conservative beach attire pics - then you have my permission to PM me!
Sorry - did that just get weird...?
I'm just joking - I think we all appreciate the fact that you happen to be an attractive female who is in to Land Cruisers! And who doesn't love a good, well composed photograph of a beautiful woman on a cool rig taken in a beautiful location??
Speaking of bodgie work, @Ryan v replace yer belts too. Stating the obvi, but you've got miss-match belts too...one old, one newish, and that ain't right, does your rig squeal? Also, those ain't OEM belts either, find a set of those. (OEM belts don't have the notches) You'll have them off to do this job anyway.
PRO-TIP #3
RE-texaz know how video.
Having gone through the fun I had with my crank bolt, and having to pull out the radiator out late in the game...Honestly, were I to do it again, I'd start by pulling the rad right from the start. it's 30 mins extra to pull it out and about 15% more messy, and a 1
It is the one part of that video that makes me cringe, and face palm, I don't know why he didn't pull the rad when he broke the tip off in the cover screw....
Side benefits of doing it: an extra six inches of work space which is HUGE and allows you better access to the pump cover screws and a lower chance of stripping them, zero chance of shearing that little nipple on the top of the radiator with a breaker bar or contorting yourself in there to get to the other bits, and zero chance of damaging the fins and ruining your rad.
other pro tip: don't use a standard #3 phillips bit on the pump cover screws...Either find a JIS #3 driver or I've found the Makita Impact Gold #3 bits are a really good approximation of the JIS bits (they might even be JIS). Standard US #3 phillips bits will strip those pump cover screws faster than you can imagine. Then replace OEMs screw with Hex head screws...avail around here somewhere.
And ... ha...i'm not a pro, so shouldn't be implying those are pro-tips...I'm def learning the rig though.
If you are saying you are looking for an outlet to post less conservative beach attire pics - then you have my permission to PM me!
Sorry - did that just get weird...?
I'm just joking - I think we all appreciate the fact that you happen to be an attractive female who is in to Land Cruisers! And who doesn't love a good, well composed photograph of a beautiful woman on a cool rig taken in a beautiful location??
About the belts, no i didnt know they werent matching and no they do not make any noise really.Speaking of bodgie work, @Ryan v replace yer belts too. Stating the obvi, but you've got miss-match belts too...one old, one newish, and that ain't right, does your rig squeal? Also, those ain't OEM belts either, find a set of those. (OEM belts don't have the notches) You'll have them off to do this job anyway.
PRO-TIP #3
RE-texaz know how video.
Having gone through the fun I had with my crank bolt, and having to pull out the radiator out late in the game...Honestly, were I to do it again, I'd start by pulling the rad right from the start. it's 30 mins extra to pull it out and about 15% more messy, and a 1
It is the one part of that video that makes me cringe, and face palm, I don't know why he didn't pull the rad when he broke the tip off in the cover screw....
Side benefits of doing it: an extra six inches of work space which is HUGE and allows you better access to the pump cover screws and a lower chance of stripping them, zero chance of shearing that little nipple on the top of the radiator with a breaker bar or contorting yourself in there to get to the other bits, and zero chance of damaging the fins and ruining your rad.
other pro tip: don't use a standard #3 phillips bit on the pump cover screws...Either find a JIS #3 driver or I've found the Makita Impact Gold #3 bits are a really good approximation of the JIS bits (they might even be JIS). Standard US #3 phillips bits will strip those pump cover screws faster than you can imagine. Then replace OEMs screw with Hex head screws...avail around here somewhere.
And ... ha...i'm not a pro, so shouldn't be implying those are pro-tips...I'm def learning the rig though.
