Harsh Upshifts (esp. in low gears) / P2716 code (shift solenoid 'D') / Recent OEM Pan Replacement... Thoughts? (2 Viewers)

[Matt Hunoval]

Searched the forums, so apologize if this has been covered elsewhere.

BACKGROUND:

First, I have a relatively-new-to-me 2013 LX 570, purchased in fall of 2024 w/ 136k miles. 3rd owner; has always lived in South & 1st owner had it exclusively serviced at Lexus dealership until selling at approx. 100k miles.

I'm a bit OCD on maintenance, so whenever I buy a used vehicle, I almost always replace every fluid / filter / wear part I can think of (depending on mileage and service history maintenance) to get a good 'baseline' on all routine maintenance items. Part of that process on my 570 included two (2) drops and drains of the transmission pan / fluid, spaced approx. 5k miles apart. Material to this post is on the 2nd drain & drop-- approx. 500 miles ago-- I replaced the OEM pan with a B&M aftermarket pan for 2 reasons: used their pan on my 2022 Ram Rebel & it is running 30 degrees cooler than the OEM pan, mainly because it has a 4-5qt greater capacity vs. OEM, combined with the fin design = a) cooler running trans temps under any/all conditions and b) it is made of cast aluminum-- much beefier & tougher than the OEM pan & provides better protection when going off the beaten path.

Rough math says that with the two (2) drop & drains & the now-extra 4-5qt capacity, the fluid now running in my rig is 90%+ new fluid with maybe 10% or less the original fluid.

Within a short time of installing the B&M pan (with the extra capacity), I've experienced harsher / jerky upshifting (especially pronounced going from 1st to 2nd), with diminishing (perceived) upshift harshness / jerkiness moving into upper gears. Not horrendous, but one can definitely feel it when upshifting in lower gears.

To head off the inevitable initial Qs: 1) Yes, the fluid levels are fine: after installing the B&M pan, gasket & new filter, I checked every 50-75 miles for any signs of fluid leaks. Dry as a bone. And 2) it isn't over or under-filled.

Otherwise, transmission is running smooth as butter-- holds gears, no slippage, none of the harshness / jerkiness downshifting-- at any/all speeds.

Short term workaround for the 1st-to-2nd upshift issue has been to toggle the ECT button to 2nd, so that it starts in 2nd gear. I'm in the middle of a move, so have all my tools & scan tool in storage in some box someplace buried under 194 other boxes.

A few days ago, took it to a national chain auto store (they have scan tools you can use for free) and it detected a P2716 code (transmission shift solenoid D, the SLT solenoid, open). As the transmission overall operates smoothly, holds gears, isn't slipping, etc... the transmission itself is just fine. Since I don't yet have a relationship with a local shop, took it to both a Toyota & Lexus dealership and (of course) both said I needed a new transmission.

INPUT / THOUGHTS / SUGGESTIONS SOUGHT!

And as the 'D' solenoid controls amount of transmission fluid going into the valve body & gears, my hypothesis is that when doing my 2nd drain & drop and installing the B&M pan & the extra 4-5qts of fluid... some legacy dirty fluid or 'gunk' that had built up prior to my ownership found its way into solenoid D, thus causing the issue.

Of course, when you throw most any transmission code, all kinds of downstream dash warning lights light up like a Christmas Tree (check engine light, many / most of the drivetrain / 4WD dash warning lights are triggered-- 4 Low, check ACH-- etc.). That said, all of those systems are fine (no error codes detected for anything other than the p2716 D solenoid)... but (again), once that P2716 code was triggered all kinds of downstream dash error lights are triggered.

Sorry for the dissertation, but wanted to be as thorough as possible. Any thoughts / feedback / input?

TIA!


I'm a bit OCD on maintenance and do most of my own wrenching.

 

[gaijin]

Searched the forums, so apologize if this has been covered elsewhere.

BACKGROUND:

First, I have a relatively-new-to-me 2013 LX 570, purchased in fall of 2024 w/ 136k miles. 3rd owner; has always lived in South & 1st owner had it exclusively serviced at Lexus dealership until selling at approx. 100k miles.

I'm a bit OCD on maintenance, so whenever I buy a used vehicle, I almost always replace every fluid / filter / wear part I can think of (depending on mileage and service history maintenance) to get a good 'baseline' on all routine maintenance items. Part of that process on my 570 included two (2) drops and drains of the transmission pan / fluid, spaced approx. 5k miles apart. Material to this post is on the 2nd drain & drop-- approx. 500 miles ago-- I replaced the OEM pan with a B&M aftermarket pan for 2 reasons: used their pan on my 2022 Ram Rebel & it is running 30 degrees cooler than the OEM pan, mainly because it has a 4-5qt greater capacity vs. OEM, combined with the fin design = a) cooler running trans temps under any/all conditions and b) it has both a drain & fill plug on the pan itself (unlike the OEM pan), so any / all future drain & fills will no longer require dropping the pan.

Rough math says that with the two (2) drop & drains & the now-extra 4-5qt capacity, the fluid now running in my rig is 90%+ new fluid with maybe 10% or less the original fluid.

Within a short time of installing the B&M pan (with the extra capacity), I've experienced harsher / jerky upshifting (especially pronounced going from 1st to 2nd), with diminishing (perceived) upshift harshness / jerkiness moving into upper gears. Not horrendous, but one can definitely feel it when upshifting in lower gears.

To head off the inevitable initial Qs: 1) Yes, the fluid levels are fine: after installing the B&M pan, gasket & new filter, I checked every 50-75 miles for any signs of fluid leaks. Dry as a bone. And 2) it isn't over or under-filled.

Otherwise, transmission is running smooth as butter-- holds gears, no slippage, none of the harshness / jerkiness downshifting-- at any/all speeds.

Short term workaround for the 1st-to-2nd upshift issue has been to toggle the ECT button to 2nd, so that it starts in 2nd gear. I'm in the middle of a move, so have all my tools & scan tool in storage in some box someplace buried under 194 other boxes.

A few days ago, took it to a national chain auto store (they have scan tools you can use for free) and it detected a P2716 code (transmission shift solenoid D, the SLT solenoid, open). As the transmission overall operates smoothly, holds gears, isn't slipping, etc... the transmission itself is just fine. Since I don't yet have a relationship with a local shop, took it to both a Toyota & Lexus dealership and (of course) both said I needed a new transmission.

INPUT / THOUGHTS / SUGGESTIONS SOUGHT!

And as the 'D' solenoid controls amount of transmission fluid going into the valve body & gears, my hypothesis is that when doing my 2nd drain & drop and installing the B&M pan & the extra 4-5qts of fluid... some legacy dirty fluid or 'gunk' that had built up prior to my ownership found its way into solenoid D, thus causing the issue.

Of course, when you throw most any transmission code, all kinds of downstream dash warning lights light up like a Christmas Tree (check engine light, many / most of the drivetrain / 4WD dash warning lights are triggered-- 4 Low, check ACH-- etc.). That said, all of those systems are fine (no error codes detected for anything other than the p2716 D solenoid)... but (again), once that P2716 code was triggered all kinds of downstream dash error lights are triggered.

Sorry for the dissertation, but wanted to be as thorough as possible. Any thoughts / feedback / input?

TIA!


I'm a bit OCD on maintenance and do most of my own wrenching.

There's a lot to unpack there, so I'll start with the obvious first question:

Did you use Toyota brand ATF-WS? Or another brand fluid?

 

[Matt Hunoval]

Searched the forums, so apologize if this has been covered elsewhere.

BACKGROUND:

First, I have a relatively-new-to-me 2013 LX 570, purchased in fall of 2024 w/ 136k miles. 3rd owner; has always lived in South & 1st owner had it exclusively serviced at Lexus dealership until selling at approx. 100k miles.

I'm a bit OCD on maintenance, so whenever I buy a used vehicle, I almost always replace every fluid / filter / wear part I can think of (depending on mileage and service history maintenance) to get a good 'baseline' on all routine maintenance items. Part of that process on my 570 included two (2) drops and drains of the transmission pan / fluid, spaced approx. 5k miles apart. Material to this post is on the 2nd drain & drop-- approx. 500 miles ago-- I replaced the OEM pan with a B&M aftermarket pan for 2 reasons: used their pan on my 2022 Ram Rebel & it is running 30 degrees cooler than the OEM pan, mainly because it has a 4-5qt greater capacity vs. OEM, combined with the fin design = a) cooler running trans temps under any/all conditions and b) it is made of cast aluminum, much beefier than the OEM pan & thus provides better protection when off the beaten path.

Rough math says that with the two (2) drop & drains & the now-extra 4-5qt capacity, the fluid now running in my rig is 90%+ new fluid with maybe 10% or less the original fluid.

Within a short time of installing the B&M pan (with the extra capacity), I've experienced harsher / jerky upshifting (especially pronounced going from 1st to 2nd), with diminishing (perceived) upshift harshness / jerkiness moving into upper gears. Not horrendous, but one can definitely feel it when upshifting in lower gears.

To head off the inevitable initial Qs: 1) Yes, the fluid levels are fine: after installing the B&M pan, gasket & new filter, I checked every 50-75 miles for any signs of fluid leaks. Dry as a bone. And 2) it isn't over or under-filled.

Otherwise, transmission is running smooth as butter-- holds gears, no slippage, none of the harshness / jerkiness downshifting-- at any/all speeds.

Short term workaround for the 1st-to-2nd upshift issue has been to toggle the ECT button to 2nd, so that it starts in 2nd gear. I'm in the middle of a move, so have all my tools & scan tool in storage in some box someplace buried under 194 other boxes.

A few days ago, took it to a national chain auto store (they have scan tools you can use for free) and it detected a P2716 code (transmission shift solenoid D, the SLT solenoid, open). As the transmission overall operates smoothly, holds gears, isn't slipping, etc... the transmission itself is just fine. Since I don't yet have a relationship with a local shop, took it to both a Toyota & Lexus dealership and (of course) both said I needed a new transmission.

INPUT / THOUGHTS / SUGGESTIONS SOUGHT!

And as the 'D' solenoid controls amount of transmission fluid going into the valve body & gears, my hypothesis is that when doing my 2nd drain & drop and installing the B&M pan & the extra 4-5qts of fluid... some legacy dirty fluid or 'gunk' that had built up prior to my ownership found its way into solenoid D, thus causing the issue.

Of course, when you throw most any transmission code, all kinds of downstream dash warning lights light up like a Christmas Tree (check engine light, many / most of the drivetrain / 4WD dash warning lights are triggered-- 4 Low, check ACH-- etc.). That said, all of those systems are fine (no error codes detected for anything other than the p2716 D solenoid)... but (again), once that P2716 code was triggered all kinds of downstream dash error lights are triggered.

Sorry for the dissertation, but wanted to be as thorough as possible. Any thoughts / feedback / input?

TIA!


I'm a bit OCD on maintenance and do most of my own wrenching.

No; used AMSOIL Signature Series 'Fuel-Efficient' 100% Synthetic, comparing the data spec sheets for both, this highest-end AMSOIL ATF meets or exceeds the Toyota WS specs in all ASTM categories (i.e., materially higher Kinematic Viscosity numbers at both 40C and 100C--23 for the WS at 40C vs. 30.8 for AMSOIL & 5.45 for the WS at 100C vs. 6.3 for the AMSOIL; flash point is 347F for the WS & 435F for the AMSOIL, etc. etc.).

A propos to the gist of the Q: I also used the same AMSOIL for my 1st drop & drain (ballpark 50% fluid replaced) 5k miles ago & experienced zero issues of any kind for those 5k miles for any / all aspects of the transmission, 4wd system, ACH, etc. Given the mileage, wasn't going to do a complete flush and so went with the best practice of 2-3 subsequent periodic drop & drains as I do not know whether or not the transmission fluid & filter has ever been changed. No real 'magic' to my 5k interval between the two drops & drains-- if I'm in the driveway changing the oil, it is a convenient interval for a drop & drain to knock both out at same time.

 

[Sandroad]

I doubt your hypotheses about “legacy” fluid causing the problem. Also, I don’t understand how installing the different pan can provide a fill plug at the correct level, but that’s just my ignorance. I suspect reinstalling the OEM pan and doing a complete fluid change with OEM WS would solve the problem. The OEM pan and WS are definitely up to the job and can handle anything you care to tackle. Given your scenario of problems occurring immediately after the mods/oil, you may want to seriously consider reversing course.

 

[gasman4u]

Change your pan for sure back to OEM. Your choice of ATF with amsoil should have been fine if that’s what amsoil says is equivalent for “WS” fluid. I’ve got amsoil atf in mine after I did a complete change of volume at 50k. Zero issues.

I’d bet your problems are related to incorrect equivalent volumes due to the pan level, etc. HTH

Edit: after you change it back, verify the correct level of fluid before buttoning it back up. If after changing the pan back and verifying correct fluid level, you may indeed have a serious problem if issues persist.

 

[GrouchyTech]

If I were working on this vehicle, I would suggest you reinstall the original pan and use Toyota WS fluid and reassess things from there.

The vast majority of the time when I see some shift solenoid codes coming up it’s about time for a new transmission. Replacing the shift solenoid corresponding to your code isn’t going to help the matter.

You can try to perform a transmission memory reset (initialization) with GTS+ and drive it according to the repair manual for the TCM to relearn the compensation values. That may help. That may not help.

Typically, if it shifts pretty s***ty after you reset the TCM, you have quite a bit of wear and it’s probably time to price a new/remanufactured unit.

 

[TomEf]

I doubt your hypotheses about “legacy” fluid causing the problem. Also, I don’t understand how installing the different pan can provide a fill plug at the correct level, but that’s just my ignorance. I suspect reinstalling the OEM pan and doing a complete fluid change with OEM WS would solve the problem. The OEM pan and WS are definitely up to the job and can handle anything you care to tackle. Given your scenario of problems occurring immediately after the mods/oil, you may want to seriously consider reversing course.

The fill plug is on the transmission body, not the pan. I'm not sure what the fluid expansion vs temperature curve looks like, but I suspect a deeper pan wouldn't cause these problems.

You may consider dropping the pan and pulling the valvebody for inspection and seeing what you can clean out. The solenoids are difficult to test, as they often test good on the bench even when they're at trans fluid operating temperature. Not sure if anyone sells them individually, but I'd suspect a bad solenoid before a bad valvebody or transmission, especially if everything was operating normally very recently. Anyone who has owned a Subaru CVT probably knows this pain.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

I doubt your hypotheses about “legacy” fluid causing the problem. Also, I don’t understand how installing the different pan can provide a fill plug at the correct level, but that’s just my ignorance. I suspect reinstalling the OEM pan and doing a complete fluid change with OEM WS would solve the problem. The OEM pan and WS are definitely up to the job and can handle anything you care to tackle. Given your scenario of problems occurring immediately after the mods/oil, you may want to seriously consider reversing course.

Apologies for confusion; used the wrong term w/ 'legacy' fluid & wasn't precise. But reversing course and going back to the OEM pan & WS fluid isn't going to fix anything. I own several makes of vehicle and a lot of folks take the line that if you don't use OEM parts & fluids, your vehicle will surely blow up and/or disintegrate. I get it, but that position is divorced from any data points / facts to back it up. Indeed, many aftermarket parts / fluids exceed OEM standards.

Just for starters, the U.S. spec for the 200 series calls for 20 weight oil. The U.S. is literally the only country in the world in which the 200 series is sold where 20-weight oil is recommended & OEM. For every other country in which the 200-series is sold (50? 60?), you'll find 30 weight oil for the gas version & in the countries where there is a diesel version, you'll find either 30 and sometimes even 40 weight oil as the OEM recommended oil.

The sole and only reason 20-weight oil is recommended for the U.S.-sold 200s is so that Lexus / Toyota can meet the US Department of Transportation / EPA's CAFE or fleet standards, which mandate a certain MPG average across all vehicles a particular brand / make sells into the U.S. And lighter oil does, in fact, help increase MPGs at the margins. Like maybe 1%-2%. But running that light of an oil on a tank like a 200-series will-- with 100% certainty-- reduce the life of the engine, all else being equal.

And by that time, hey, the rig will be out of warranty & it won't be Toyota or Lexus' problem!

Rant about how retarded it is to run 20-weight oil in your 200 series aside, point is that OEM does not necessarily = best. OEM tires? Wheels?

If I don't know or have access to hard comparative data, of course, I'll use the OEM product. That's a good heuristic / rule of thumb.

But I looked at the comparative specs prior to considering what ATF to use and, in this case, the specs on the AMSOIL 'Signature Series' ATF are superior to the OEM W fluid in every category tested. One can compare the technical data sheets on each. I did prior to using the AMSOIL ATF-- had the OEM W fluid been better, I'd have used it. But it isn't. Flash point? Nope. Kinetic Viscosity (a measure of how stable the fluid remains over time at different temps)? Nope.

Certainly, if I read or interpreted them incorrectly, of course, I'd be grateful to anyone to let me know, with precision, the specs where the OEM W fluid is superior to the AMSOIL 'Signature Series' ATF.

After some # of miles (depending on variables such as how hard the rig has been driven), any/all transmissions for any/all makes-- there is no such thing as 'lifetime transmission fluid'-- the fluid gets dirty and deposits of 'gunk' form in the transmission. Up to maybe 40k-50k miles (again depending on a few variables) it is generally OK to do a full flush on a transmission, which uses a high pressure spray & detergents to clean and flush out 100% of ATF fluid and replace it with 100% new ATF fluid. Don't want to quibble or get sidetracked on the mileage threshold (it isn't a hard line # but a range) for a flush being OK but as the rig increases in miles and if the OEM fluid / filter has never been changed, the risk of a flush knocking some of that gunk and debris loose rises. And driving with large particulate matter floating around inside the transmission = invitation for disaster. Thus the drop & drain performed periodically every (say) 5k or 10k or 15k miles. No high pressure spray & detergents and, with each drop & drain, you're replacing maybe 40-50% of the fluid. There's a debate that over some # of miles (150k or 200k, etc. there are varying opinions on this), you're probably better off just not changing the fluid / filter at all, drop & drain or otherwise, as at some high mileage X, the same risk of new ATF fluid replacing / displacing the old fluid may knock loose some of that old build-up and gunk. Having done this with other vehicles, 136k for the 1st drop & drain was well within the low-risk parameter of that happening. I used the AMSOIL 'Signature Series' because the data / spec sheet shows it is better than the OEM WS fluid in all categories across the board. And it ran flawlessly for the 5k interval with the AMSOIL from the 1st drop & drain until the 2nd, when I installed the B&M larger-capacity pan. Whatever the reason-- and not until I drop the pan and check the valve body (and thus solenoids)-- solenoid D, the SLT solenoid, isn't functioning at 100%. It is only on upshifts, especially in lower gears, where the shift points are harsh/jerky. Not horrendous. And there is no slippage or trouble holding gears, and downshifting across all 6 gears remain smooth as silk. I may have inadvertently knocked some of the wiring harness to the solenoids loose when installing the B&M pan or that solenoid may have just gone bad as a wear part or is just dirty and can be cleaned and reinstalled. Who knows until I get in and actually check things out. I realize this is a pretty in-the-weeds thread, as the internals of a transmission are not generally DIY-friendly.

So was posting for the sole and only reason to see if anyone in the forum had experienced throwing the P2716 code for the SLT or 'D' Solenoid and accompanying harsh/jerky upshifts. I realized it was a bit of a long shot, but OEM = good & everything else, whether better comparative technical data sheet specs or otherwise, = bad a) just isn't true and b) doesn't address or relate any similar experience that may help shed light on my post, which is admittedly a pretty in-the-weeds technical subject.

re: 'legacy'

 

[gasman4u]

I’m a simple man from the country. Don’t take this the wrong way, but you may have some confirmation bias. I’m still running amsoil atf in mine as I said above. Zero issues.

To confirm: there were no issues before your fluid and pan change, correct? If not, disregard my posts.

If so, something is now not as it was via fluid level or as you said connection, etc being reinstalled incorrectly. Res ipsa loquitur

 

[Matt Hunoval]

I’m a simple man from the country. Don’t take this the wrong way, but you may have some confirmation bias. I’m still running amsoil atf in mine as I said above. Zero issues.

To confirm: there were no issues before your fluid and pan change, correct? If not, disregard my posts.

If so, something is now not as it was via fluid level or as you said connection, etc being reinstalled incorrectly. Res ipsa loquitur

apologies, my post wasn't a reply to yours. I've done two (2) drop & drains, the 1st was 5,500 miles ago. Used Amsoil the 1st time. Ran like a top, transmission smooth as butter for those 5k miles, upshifting, downshifting, holding gears, etc. As a drop and drain replaces 40%-50% of the ATF, I did it a 2nd time approx. 500 miles ago, again with Amsoil. With the 2nd drop and drain, however, I also installed an aftermarket B&M transmission pan, which is deeper & made of cast aluminum & has an extra 3.5qt capacity. With the 2nd drop and drain, I also changed the transmission filter. Used Amsoil also for the 2nd drop and drain 500 miles ago. By rough math, including the extra 3.5qts, I'm running 90%< of new Amsoil & 10%< OEM fluid. The 'jerkiness' of upshifting-- not horrendous but definitely noticeable, mainly in the lower gears-- corresponded with the 2nd drop & drain & install of the B&M pan. Yes, I checked the pan & gasket every 50-100 miles to ensure no leaks. Dry as a bone. And yes, the fluid levels are correct.

So it isn't credible that-- after working flawlessly in every way for 5k miles, that now all of a sudden in the last 500 miles & corresponding only to the install of the B&M pan, my transmission generally is about to implode. Literally the ONLY issue is a harshness / jerkiness in upshifting, especially in the lower gears. Not horrendous. But no longer smooth as butter.

As TomEf posted above, the fact that it is a deeper pan with greater fluid capacity wouldn't seem to have a bearing on anything. The reason I installed the B&M pan was primarily because a) I used their deep pan (4.5qts extra) in my 2022 Ram 1500 and my trans temps in my truck have dropped 15-30 degrees and b) they're made of heavy-duty cast aluminum & are much beefier than the OEM pan & thus offer far superior protection when doing any kind of offroading.

As TomEF posted, I'm just gonna have to drop the pan & check the valve body-- it may well be that I knocked the wiring harness or wires connected to Solenoid D / SLT by accident, or it may just be a wear part that got dirty & just needs to be replaced. But it ain't the transmission writ large-- I'd then be experiencing other transmission issues more generally.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

The fill plug is on the transmission body, not the pan. I'm not sure what the fluid expansion vs temperature curve looks like, but I suspect a deeper pan wouldn't cause these problems.

You may consider dropping the pan and pulling the valvebody for inspection and seeing what you can clean out. The solenoids are difficult to test, as they often test good on the bench even when they're at trans fluid operating temperature. Not sure if anyone sells them individually, but I'd suspect a bad solenoid before a bad valvebody or transmission, especially if everything was operating normally very recently. Anyone who has owned a Subaru CVT probably knows this pain.

Thank you kind sir! Nice to have a direct, reasonable response. I'm with you-- it doesn't make sense that just having a deeper pan with greater fluid capacity has anything to do with the price of tea in China. I'm just gonna have to drop the pan and check the valve body & test the solenoids. Given the very narrow scope of issues I'm experiencing, it ain't the transmission generally writ large. It started happening & perfectly coincided with my 2nd drop & drain & install of the B&M pan. Methinks either a) I accidentally knocked the wiring harness / wiring to the SLT or D solenoid, resulting in the p2716 code as not functioning properly (I think it means it is stuck in the 'open' position) or b) it is a wear item & I'll just need to replace it. It'll be a bit of a PITA, but that specific solenoid is around $200.

 

[GrouchyTech]

I have never had

As TomEF posted, I'm just gonna have to drop the pan & check the valve body-- it may well be that I knocked the wiring harness or wires connected to Solenoid D / SLT by accident, or it may just be a wear part that got dirty & just needs to be replaced. But it ain't the transmission writ large-- I'd then be experiencing other transmission issues more generally.

You can try, but I’ve never seen a shift solenoid replacement fix an SLT problem on the AB60F. It’s always a transmission replacement. Customers want to put a shift solenoid in and I suggest to them that’s not going to fix the problem, but they want it anyhow. And it doesn’t fix the problem. Every time.

Go back to square one. OEM pan, Toyota WS. Reset TCM memory and perform the road test outlined in the repair manual.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

EDIT to original post. I was typing faster than thinking in OP-- the fill port remains in the same location as OEM. So the procedure for proper filling to correct level remains the same. The big difference in the B&M pan is its 3.5qt extra capacity & its construction of cast aluminum-- much beefier than the OEM pan & thus offers far better undercarriage protection if going off the beaten path (and it has a 3rd port for an optional transmission temperature gauge, which I've not yet purchased / installed.

 

[GrouchyTech]

Methinks either a) I accidentally knocked the wiring harness / wiring to the SLT or D solenoid, resulting in the p2716 code as not functioning properly (I think it means it is stuck in the 'open' position) or b) it is a wear item & I'll just need to replace it. It'll be a bit of a PITA, but that specific solenoid is around $200.

Open/short in the circuit.

While you have the pan off:
-SLT Solenoid should have 5 to 5.6 ohms between the terminals.
If that tests good then you’ll need to move to testing the connector and harness for an open/short.

 

[GrouchyTech]

EDIT to original post. I was typing faster than thinking in OP-- the fill port remains in the same location as OEM. So the procedure for proper filling to correct level remains the same. The big difference in the B&M pan is its 3.5qt extra capacity & its construction of cast aluminum-- much beefier than the OEM pan & thus offers far better undercarriage protection if going off the beaten path (and it has a 3rd port for an optional transmission temperature gauge, which I've not yet purchased / installed.

The only thing about the pan that truly matters is that the standpipe is in the correct position so that you can adjust the transmission fluid to the proper level. Needs to be done while the transmission is at the correct temperature and the engine is running in park or neutral.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

I have never had


You can try, but I’ve never seen a shift solenoid replacement fix an SLT problem on the AB60F. It’s always a transmission replacement. Customers want to put a shift solenoid in and I suggest to them that’s not going to fix the problem, but they want it anyhow. And it doesn’t fix the problem. Every time.

Go back to square one. OEM pan, Toyota WS. Reset TCM memory and perform the road test outlined in the repair manual.

Honest Q: here's the technical data sheet on the ATF I used (it is the internal code 'ATL', so look at the 2nd column on page 2): https://www.amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

Here's the Toyota WS technical data sheet: https://cdn.website-editor.net/6622da50fd3744b3b1560a41005a6921/files/uploaded/00289-ATFWS.pdf

Which specs, precisely, would indicate the WS is superior? Kinematic Viscosity (stability of fluid over time at two benchmark temps)? Nope. Flash point? Nope. To be fair, however, if you're approaching flash point temps you've got much bigger problems! On every ASTM standard measured, the WS is inferior. No, not by much. At the margins, yes, AMSOIL is a superior ATF across the board.

Don't think you can go wrong either way, but the OEM-is-always-better-no-matter-what isn't really an argument. Tires? The 20-weight oil recommended for U.S. 200 series? Both are OEM.

In taking the OEM-is-always-better line, I'd love to hear a good case for 20-weight oil in the 200 series.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

The only thing about the pan that truly matters is that the standpipe is in the correct position so that you can adjust the transmission fluid to the proper level. Needs to be done while the transmission is at the correct temperature and the engine is running in park or neutral.

yes; I make sure to do that every time I do a drop & drain 100%.

 

[GrouchyTech]

Honest Q: here's the technical data sheet on the ATF I used (it is the internal code 'ATL', so look at the 2nd column on page 2): https://www.amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

Here's the Toyota WS technical data sheet: https://cdn.website-editor.net/6622da50fd3744b3b1560a41005a6921/files/uploaded/00289-ATFWS.pdf

Which specs, precisely, would indicate the WS is superior? Kinematic Viscosity (stability of fluid over time at two benchmark temps)? Nope. Flash point? Nope. To be fair, however, if you're approaching flash point temps you've got much bitter problems! On every ASTM standard measured, the WS is inferior. No, not by much. At the margins, yes, AMSOIL is a superior ATF across the board.

Don't think you can go wrong either way, but the OEM-is-always-better-no-matter-what isn't really an argument. Tires? The 20-weight oil recommended for U.S. 200 series? Both are OEM.

In taking the OEM-is-always-better line, I'd love to hear a good case for 20-weight oil in the 200 series.

I’m sure Amsoil is fine stuff. I think it’s a good idea to revert back to the condition where it was working originally.
I have seen the problems when other transmission fluid brands were used, and I don’t know if they were/weren’t WS compatible, but there were shifting issues. Those shifting issues were resolved when the fluid was replaced for Toyota WS.

 

[Matt Hunoval]

Open/short in the circuit.

While you have the pan off:
-SLT Solenoid should have 5 to 5.6 ohms between the terminals.
If that tests good then you’ll need to move to testing the connector and harness for an open/short.

yes; have a voltage meter & that'll be step 1. Step 2 will be to connect the positive and negative connectors to the solenoid body & pins, respectively, to ensure that the valve connector is opening & closing properly. Tho since the scan tool indicated it was the D / SLT, and I don't want to have much downtime, I might go ahead and order a new one if I'm going thru the trouble of opening up the valve body & replacing it either way for PM reasons.

 

[GrouchyTech]

yes; have a voltage meter & that'll be step 1. Step 2 will be to connect the positive and negative connectors to the solenoid body & pins, respectively, to ensure that the valve connector is opening & closing properly. Tho since the scan tool indicated it was the D / SLT, and I don't want to have much downtime, I might go ahead and order a new one if I'm going thru the trouble of opening up the valve body & replacing it either way for PM reasons.

If everything with the solenoid checks out you will need to check resistance on the terminals of the connector that connects to the shift solenoid, and then you will need to check resistance of that circuit with the ECM unplugged.