LX570 “shift solenoid D” issues (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 26, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Ok so a little back story. I purchased my wife’s LX a couple months back, dealer maintained its whole life with 31 pages of maintenance records. 166k on it and runs smooth as silk. Within the first couple weeks of bringing it home she calls me and says her water bottle fell over while leaving for work and all the lights on the dash came on. I go out to inspect and see she has somehow activated 4 Lo when the bottle fell and hit the switch, impressive. End up putting it back in 4 Hi and clearing all codes and away she goes, no issues. Drives fine for a couple weeks then the lights come back on. This time only P2714 “Solenoid D stuck/off”. Do some reading and think it may just be old/dirty trans fluid as maintenance records show no service since it’s a “lifetime” fluid… right. Order some Toyota WS and do a full fluid exchange and check fluid at proper temp, put it all back together and clear the codes again. She drives it for another few weeks and still running smooth as silk, no shifting issues, slipping or anything. At this point I’m thinking ok it was probably just dirty fluid, problem solved. Well now again today she leaves and calls 5 minutes later and the code is back, this time with a shift solenoid C pending along with the original P2714. Seems that every time it throws the code it’s within the first mile of driving but drives completely fine otherwise. Looking for any advice or to see if someone has encountered anything similar in their 200.
 
This is a reoccurring issue that I personally have been dealing with for the last few years. It used to happen more often in the cold, but has gotten progressively worse and now happens to me even on warm days.

Typically is triggered when my frisk hunts for gears shofting from 3rd to 4th on a slight incline is usually the trigger.

I haven’t seen consensus yet on what it is but am noticing more people posting about it.

Because I have a hard time believing these indestructible and super reliable vehicles are actually prone to transmission failure… my temporary (1.5 yrs) has been just putting it into manual shift mode (ECT maybe?) and manually shift up until it’s well warmed up.

Possible issues I’ve read:
- low trans fluid (WS)
- faulty solenoid
- warped valve body
- bad transmission

From the threads itself seems that people try things and the dealerships seem to end up replacing the transmission…. Or the threads don’t conclude with an update.

Apparently swapping solenoids at $300ish a pop, given the number of them, makes the $3.5k for a transmission seem less painful.

Love to hear thoughts.

I used ObDFusion to clear codes for this when they pop up
 
I had a very similiar issue. Probably should’ve just let it ride and continued to deal with some inconveniences from time to time, but I chased everything down and spent way more money than I should have. Ended up with new transmission at 350,000 miles.
 
I just threw a p2716 solenoid D / SLT-- which I believe means it remains open vs. the 2714 code, which means it is shut. I'm getting rough / jerky upshifts, especially in the low gear range (1st to 2nd especially). Otherwise, transmission is fine-- holds gears, no slippage, and smooth as butter downshifting thru all 6 gears. It is only on the upshifts & especially lower gears that are a bit jerky / harsh. Of course, when this happens the 'check engine' light and pretty much every other drivetrain / 4wd warning lights come on like a damn Christmas tree. But none of those systems are compromised / in need of repair. Once you throw an upstream transmission code, a lot of downstream warning lights will light up. Posted a thread to see if anyone had experience with the p2716 solenoid but so far I've only been flamed for using Amsoil's 'Signature Series' ATF for my recent drop & drain vs. the OEM Toyota WS fluid (I checked the technical data sheets on each before using the Amsoil & it is better in every measured category than the OEM WS... but hey, OEM = good. Always.). Anyhow, will be dropping the pan and checking the solenoids as very few seem to have much substantive input on this admittedly in-the-weeds topic! Best of luck!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom