Hardwire Dashcam

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I was going off a dashcam/radar installer instructions for the 10-30amp fuse

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You are missing an important part of the context in that text: "We always recommend selecting fuse slots that are rated between 10A-30A". This suggests finding an existing fuse that's at least 10amp, and using a fuse tap/piggyback (such as the one in your kit) in it, while using a properly-sized (2-5amp) fuse for your actual dash cam. That's an important distinction from simply "using a 10-30amp fuse".

Yes, that sounds like an alright setup for a dash cam.
 
Assuming I need to add a fuse on pax side for a dashcam, any consensus on what fuse locations are ideal for acc/constant on power? 2021 model year. TIA.
 
Assuming I need to add a fuse on pax side for a dashcam, any consensus on what fuse locations are ideal for acc/constant on power? 2021 model year. TIA.
I used the 9 and 12 location on that fuse box.
Both were unused in my LC and I think the 9 is always powered and the 12 is only powered when the engine is on. Though I may have these swapped - it would be easy to test this when you are installing. Just don’t plug one in at first and see if you are getting power.

Mine is also a 2021.
 
@MCtree thanks. I'll get after it on installation. Any tips/tricks for running the wire along the a-pillar/up from the fuse box? I haven't done it on this car, but those airbags make me nervous.
 
@MCtree thanks. I'll get after it on installation. Any tips/tricks for running the wire along the a-pillar/up from the fuse box? I haven't done it on this car, but those airbags make me nervous.
Yup. I was nervous about the airbags too.
In watching YouTube I saw some people saying you don’t need to unplug your battery but to be safe I unplugged mine and let it sit for 15 min before I started working.

But you basically need to remove two covers from the passenger side footwell. The smaller one on the fuse box you won’t be able to put back on once you install the wiretap (but it’s good to store since it has info on the inside of it.)
Then you remove the side cover that’s up against the door. (Just clips)
Then the A pillar cover. (Two bolts in the handle and then clips)

Once the covers are all off you will see a bundle of wires running behind the air bag in the A pillar. I zip tied my camera wire to that bundle of wire.

Then you can push the wire into the gap between your windshield and roof lining. No need to remove the lining.

I did mine about 20k miles ago and haven’t had any issues since.
 
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is there a way to modify the fuse door to make it fit? Or is the driver's door a bit more generous with room?
 
As an aside:
One recurring issue I am continuously annoyed with is due to my Garmin camera.

Anything below freezing inside the vehicle (overnight) tends to mess it up.
And it’s sneaky. You get into the truck and it all seems to be working. But it’s not actually recording anything. And won’t take pictures if you ask it to.

Admittedly the temp ranges in the garmin clearly state it won’t work below freezing, but “below freezing” is seen commonly enough that it catches me too often.

It’s easy enough to unplug the camera and let it sit for a min before plugging it back in, but I often forget to do this.
 
is there a way to modify the fuse door to make it fit? Or is the driver's door a bit more generous with room?
I suppose you could cut the fuse door to make it fit.
But I don’t think there is a need for this since there are two panels; An outer and inner one. The outer one still fits fine.

But this is why I am a proponent for using the passenger side fuse box over the driver side one. The driver side only has the one cover - that also won’t fit back on with fuse taps. So the driver side is left open to be accidentally kicked if you use it while the passenger side still has a cover if you use that side.
 
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As an aside:
One recurring issue I am continuously annoyed with is due to my Garmin camera.

Anything below freezing inside the vehicle (overnight) tends to mess it up.
And it’s sneaky. You get into the truck and it all seems to be working. But it’s not actually recording anything. And won’t take pictures if you ask it to.

Admittedly the temp ranges in the garmin clearly state it won’t work below freezing, but “below freezing” is seen commonly enough that it catches me too often.

It’s easy enough to unplug the camera and let it sit for a min before plugging it back in, but I often forget to do this.
Now that you mention it, I remember you dropping this gem on another thread about dashcams.

That's ridiculous and would frustrate me to no end. I want to do it right the first time and not have technical oversights from some product hamstring the final result. You're taking this in stride better than I would for sure.

I have no doubt the company would try to minimize the issue "oh, just power cycle the unit...." EVERY. TIME. you get into the car when it's below 32*. Sounds "reasonable."


I suppose you could cut the fuse door to make it fit.
But I don’t think there is a need for this since there are two panels; An outer and inner one. The outer one still fits fine.

But this is why I am a proponent for using the passenger side fuse box over the driver side one. The driver side only has the one cover - that also won’t fit back on with fuse taps. So the driver side is left open if you use it wheel the passenger side still has a cover if you use it.
GREAT insight. This is what I was hoping to avoid and it looks like the pax box is the winner for sourcing this power. Thanks again.
 
Stupid question here: "Switched" just means a circuit that is only on with ignition on, right?
Not to complicate things, but just FYI...

There are 2 types of switched circuits. Some that are energized in the ACC position (radio, clock, etc), and others that are only energized when the ignition is in the RUN position (engine ignition, ecus, blower fan, etc).

You can check which type a circuit is by keeping your foot off the brake pedal, one push of the Start button is the ACC position, second push is the RUN position.
 
Has anyone identified a way to keep the accessory on after the vehicle is put in ACC mode? On a 2011 only the head unit comes on when doing that.
I think somebody figured out that if you put the trans in any other gear besides Park, the ACC will stay on indefinitely. Something like that.
 
@MCtree thanks. I'll get after it on installation. Any tips/tricks for running the wire along the a-pillar/up from the fuse box? I haven't done it on this car, but those airbags make me nervous.
Don't just tuck the wires - unplug the battery, wait 15 min, remove the grab handle (two bolts) and pull the interior trim panel off. Run any wires behind the airbag.
 
Assuming I need to add a fuse on pax side for a dashcam, any consensus on what fuse locations are ideal for acc/constant on power? 2021 model year. TIA.
I ended up having an installer do the job for about $100. My body does not contort that way to get under the dash and play with fuses. I used a hard wire kit from Miofive who makes the dash cam. It's basically a tap a fuse. I believe they went into the empty slots of 9 & 12 and did a meticulous job of running the wire. I wish now I would've had them run the rear cam wire.
 
Don't just tuck the wires - unplug the battery, wait 15 min, remove the grab handle (two bolts) and pull the interior trim panel off. Run any wires behind the airbag.
Is there an existing wire loom behind the air bag that I could run the wires along side? I for sure want to make sure this wire doesn't impede or alter the path of the side airbag.
 
Is there an existing wire loom behind the air bag that I could run the wires along side? I for sure want to make sure this wire doesn't impede or alter the path of the side airbag.
Yes. It’s pretty easy to take off the A pillar cover. Two bolts in the handle and then just gently tug off the clips.
Do this and you can see the loom and airbag.
 
Yes. It’s pretty easy to take off the A pillar cover. Two bolts in the handle and then just gently tug off the clips.
Do this and you can see the loom and airbag.
I might do this for the cable running to the rear camera. Right now its wedged between window and a pillar and then somewhat tucked in along top of dash. So If I disconnect battery for 15 min and take a pillar off for sure the bag won't blow? Thanks
 
Disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 15 min has always worked for me.

From the Factory Service Manual:

Before starting work, wait at least 90 seconds after the engine switch is turned off and after the cable is disconnected from the negative (-) battery terminal. (SRS parts are equipped with a backup power source. If work is started within 90 seconds of turning the engine switch off and disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal, SRS parts may deploy).​
 
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How did you route cable to the rear window camera?

Specifically, did anyone do any high speed routing through the black rubber conduit with the third brake light power, etc?
 
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