Man, I can appreciate the "little things" taking forever. I did that on Friday....
Builds Hardcore ROTM - PROJECT RASCAL - July 2005 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rascal
- Start date
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Rascal
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #404
Question:
I'm finishing my brake plumbing. I've got a stock FJ40 MC and booster. If you are looking at the MC from the drivers side. Is the front output facing the DS fender and the rear output facing straight down?
Second question:
I have a dual throw cutting brake (push forward locks the front brakes and pull back and it locks the rear brakes. I also have a line lock to satisfy my parking brake requirement. My plan for the rear brakes is to go from the MC to the line lock then to the cutting brake then to the rear brakes. For the front - it's simple - MC to the cutting brake to the front brakes.
Question is on the rear - would you put the line lock before or after the cutting brake? ie: MC - LL - CB - Rear brakes or MC - CB - LL - rear brakes. Or does it really matter?
I'm finishing my brake plumbing. I've got a stock FJ40 MC and booster. If you are looking at the MC from the drivers side. Is the front output facing the DS fender and the rear output facing straight down?
Second question:
I have a dual throw cutting brake (push forward locks the front brakes and pull back and it locks the rear brakes. I also have a line lock to satisfy my parking brake requirement. My plan for the rear brakes is to go from the MC to the line lock then to the cutting brake then to the rear brakes. For the front - it's simple - MC to the cutting brake to the front brakes.
Question is on the rear - would you put the line lock before or after the cutting brake? ie: MC - LL - CB - Rear brakes or MC - CB - LL - rear brakes. Or does it really matter?
Bruce-
If you have a stock Toyota disc brake master cylinder, the ports for lines to connect will be on top of the master cylinder, in front of the front and rear reservoirs...
The ports on the bottom are for pressure switches...
Post up a pic of your master....that would help a lot.
I would put the line lock after the cutting brake...right close to it, so that it is out of the way.
Good luck!
-Steve
If you have a stock Toyota disc brake master cylinder, the ports for lines to connect will be on top of the master cylinder, in front of the front and rear reservoirs...
The ports on the bottom are for pressure switches...
Post up a pic of your master....that would help a lot.
I would put the line lock after the cutting brake...right close to it, so that it is out of the way.
Good luck!
-Steve
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I'd also put the line lock after the cutting brake, so you could either set the lock with the pedal or the handle, and also to keep continuous pressure off the cutting brake..
Rascal said:
Ed did an outstanding job building them up, well done! The links look grate as does the whole truck. I look forward to hearing how the setup walks over everything. Do shoot back some feed back on what the links are doing and any suggested upgrades or changes. I have the Beta group in bound with the updates I talked about done to them.
I know of one other Cascade Cruiser that is planning the long haul with me to TX for the round up. ($1300 is the working budget for travel per tow rig after all its 2200 miles EACH way! Gota hold a few bake sales.) Looking forward to wheeling with you again as well!
Mark
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Mark, you can have the truck delivered and fly for the same $. You always can hitch a ride.
G
G
Waggoner5 said:
Shipping is right around $1000 each way. This is $1300 both ways. Also need to look into a car hualer trailer and try to get 6+ trucks, then just fly in!
Mark
Bruce,
Sweet build job, looking forward to seeing it work.
An Atlas has a safety that won't let you shift it into front wheel drive, in high range if the rear wheel high is not engaged (I spent four hours, 5 calls to AA to get someone to splain that to me). This is a their safety feature to keep you from running down the road at high speed and spitting the front shaft out.
If the Atlas will shift into neutral and then rear high and front high and then shift back from front high to neutral and rear high into neutral, check to make sure your shifter and your cables are not binding. If the shifter and cables are not binding, I would disconnect the cable from the Atlas while the Atlas is in neutral and then make sure the shifter and cable have enough throw to put the Atlas into low range. If all that checks out, I would first think that it is just stiff.
I would try to roll the truck under power in rear wheel high... run it just fast enough that when you let off the gas that it will create some slack in the drive line. As you let off the gas, shift out of rear high into rear low, use one firm and steady motion. These are straight cut gears and you will need to get the gears to mesh.
To make the shifting into low gear range easier, could be the internal adjustment. Sunray adjusted the detents so that mine would shift easier. Atlas are not the easiest to shift but work well once you get used to the gyrations needed to get them to shift quick and smooth.
Let me know if I can be of any help.
Later, Jimbro
Sweet build job, looking forward to seeing it work.
An Atlas has a safety that won't let you shift it into front wheel drive, in high range if the rear wheel high is not engaged (I spent four hours, 5 calls to AA to get someone to splain that to me). This is a their safety feature to keep you from running down the road at high speed and spitting the front shaft out.
If the Atlas will shift into neutral and then rear high and front high and then shift back from front high to neutral and rear high into neutral, check to make sure your shifter and your cables are not binding. If the shifter and cables are not binding, I would disconnect the cable from the Atlas while the Atlas is in neutral and then make sure the shifter and cable have enough throw to put the Atlas into low range. If all that checks out, I would first think that it is just stiff.
I would try to roll the truck under power in rear wheel high... run it just fast enough that when you let off the gas that it will create some slack in the drive line. As you let off the gas, shift out of rear high into rear low, use one firm and steady motion. These are straight cut gears and you will need to get the gears to mesh.
To make the shifting into low gear range easier, could be the internal adjustment. Sunray adjusted the detents so that mine would shift easier. Atlas are not the easiest to shift but work well once you get used to the gyrations needed to get them to shift quick and smooth.
Let me know if I can be of any help.
Later, Jimbro
Also, the pattern is reversed with cable shifters. Back is low and forward is high. I bet that is the problem.
Rascal
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #417
Got a lot closer to finishing.
Got the driveshaft from Jesse last week and got it in. Angles are much better. Made a set up for a center limiting strap. I will get some tabs and a short strap and I should be good to go. This will also be a good set up for a cinch rope from my winch.
Got the driveshaft from Jesse last week and got it in. Angles are much better. Made a set up for a center limiting strap. I will get some tabs and a short strap and I should be good to go. This will also be a good set up for a cinch rope from my winch.
Rascal
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #418
Cut drilled and installed the skid plate. That is some hard aluminum. Metal bit on a jigsaw just scratched it. Plasma Cutter did a little but would not cut through. I ended up using 5 cut off wheels to make the two cuts... Drilled and tapped the frame and rear crossmember and bolted it up.
Man, looks fantastic!
Carbide blade in a Skil saw is the way I cut that aluminum.
Bad ass truck.
Want to do a mid-week run to Jacksboro the week of the 25th?
Carbide blade in a Skil saw is the way I cut that aluminum.
Bad ass truck.
Want to do a mid-week run to Jacksboro the week of the 25th?