Hard to Reach Surface Rust - What to do? (1 Viewer)

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hey all,

I'm prepping some FJ62 knuckles to go on my 75 FJ40. Before I install them, I'd like to add a coat of paint. I've managed to clean up most of the pieces, on the hubs/knuckles specifically, there are areas I simply cannot reach with a 4 inch grinder/wire brush, or a cup brush on a drill. For example, the crevices around the rotor mounting points on the hub:

I'm wondering what the best course of action is here. I have tried Naval Jelly rust desolver - it left a white residue on everything, and didn't actually dissolve any of the rust. I've thought about using some of Eastwood's "Rust converter" to make the surface rust an inert, paintable surface, but my concern is that it won't adhere to the places I took down to bare metal, and cause problems with the primer I'll be putting over the bear metal (Eatwood Chassis black primer).

As usual, I'm a total amateur when it comes to paint - so I want to do the job right, once, if at all possible.

Thanks!

 

[kruisinkid]

electrolysis or soak in evaporust or POR15 metal prep if you wanted it gone. but if it were me i think just converting it with metal prep and painting over it with a self etching primer would work just fine.

edit: also, a dremel tool with MANY wire wheel heads would work too i would think.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

electrolysis or soak in evaporust or POR15 metal prep if you wanted it gone. but if it were me i think just converting it with metal prep and painting over it with a self etching primer would work just fine.

edit: also, a dremel tool with MANY wire wheel heads would work too i would think.

Electrolysis would definitely be the way to go. I would love to set up a tank. Unfortunately the battery chargers, etc. required are not in the budget right now (trying to pay for a wedding ). I didn't think of a dremel wire wheel. Might be an option - but I agree, I've removed quite a bit of it, I think hitting what is left of it with a converter would work.

I have some of that Eastwood "PRE" metal prep stuff, along with Eastwood Rust Converter. That said, it doesn't sound like "PRE" will convert/inert rust, it's just a cleaner. As I mentioned, Eastwood's rust converter that I have specifically mentions not spraying it on bare metal, as it won't adhere - which is why I have been hesitant to apply it in areas like this where I have both.

Would hitting the rust with Rust converter, then going over it again with "PRE" remove any residual, unreacted rust converter?

 

[kruisinkid]

ive never dealt with the products you are using, ive only used POR metal prep and evaporust. if you soak a part with rust with either of those 2 chemicals, the rust will pretty much disappear. evaporust is a little stronger/better, i would try that. its also reusable to a degree. i also just saw permatex has a rust DISSOLVING gel for about 7bux. im very anal so i would be dremel-ing anything i could off that way. the permatex is cheap enough to try certainly too. i would think you would need about 2 gals of evaporust which would run near 50$.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

ive never dealt with the products you are using, ive only used POR metal prep and evaporust. if you soak a part with rust with either of those 2 chemicals, the rust will pretty much disappear. evaporust is a little stronger/better, i would try that. its also reusable to a degree. i also just saw permatex has a rust DISSOLVING gel for about 7bux. im very anal so i would be dremel-ing anything i could off that way. the permatex is cheap enough to try certainly too. i would think you would need about 2 gals of evaporust which would run near 50$.

That permatex gel rust dissolver is naval jelly, or something similar. I tried that yesterday, it didn't dissolve anything and left a white residue on everything it touched that I had to wire wheel (once again) to get off. No amount of water would wash it away.

 

[kruisinkid]

ahh. good to know. metal prep will leave the same residue if you use too much of it when its used as a spray on stabilizer/neutralizer.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

ahh. good to know. metal prep will leave the same residue if you use too much of it when its used as a spray on stabilizer/neutralizer.

I'm assuming this residue is not OK to paint over?

 

[FJLandy]

Not sure if you get it in the US but I use Hi-Chem rust converter/primer. It chemically converts rust to a stable base, ok to use on bare metal and can paint directly over it. Great product.

 

[pavieSD]

You should be able to reach all that rust by using one of these:

Cheaper then spending a bunch of money on POR/liquid treatments.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/75..._sjU1O1nQ8_PLA__25122928624_c_S&026=-99&025=c

Mark

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you used naval jelly/rust converter, you can prime and paint it. It's not rust anymore, even though it still looks like rust. No reason not to hit it with the drill brush above first.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hey Eddy,

When I hit the rust with Naval Jelly (Rust Dissolver, not converter - is there a difference?) and let it sit for 10 minutes, it dried - there was a white residue left on everything it touched, clean metal, rust, etc. It wouldn't come off with water, acetone, baking soda/water, you name it. I wound up hitting it with an angle grinder. Underneath, the rust still looks like rust...(didn't turn black, as I've heard it's supposed to, and it certainly didn't "dissolve"). Looking around online, it appeared that the white residue had to be removed prior to paint or it would interfere with adhesion.

 

[nitro3421]

I'd personally go with a blasting cabinet or portable soda blaster. Just picked up one of each as I begin a 69' FJ40 restoration. I figure $250 on a blasting cabinet and $150 on a soda blaster will be cheaper and much more efficient than grinding wheels and chemicals in the long run. Harbor Freight makes some pretty good blasting cabinets.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Maybe you didn't leave it on long enough. (?)

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Maybe you didn't leave it on long enough. (?)

Followed the instructions, left it on for 10 minutes. It did mention that "if it dries out, add some more dissolver to reconstitute the dried out stuff. I did that, and still ended up with a residue when I tried to wash it off. I also have a hard time trusting anything you wash off with water after it kills rust - seems like a good way to reactivate the oxidation process you just stopped...Don't get me wrong, it very well might work, but I certainly can't figure it out!