Hard pull to right under acceleration

[00N8]

Great advice all. With the Heavy Slee 2.5" kit, my back end sits up at 22.5" from hub to fender and I instructed my shop to set the front at 21.5" to give a 1" rake then adjust the toe and camber to ensure it's good. I put the rack and pinion order on hold until I spend a little time driving around with this configuration and see how it performs. The driver side ball joints have a little play in them and I noticed the driver side lower ball joint is leaking a little grease and the OEM unit doesn't appear to have a zerk. So I'm wondering if the Supercharger with free flowing exhaust is causing enough power to create the right side pull and it not be the rack.

 

[petrotk40]

I'd say you could definitely be inducing some torque steer with the extra power.

 

[00N8]

Local shop set the alignment several times today and still the steering wheel is crooked when driving straight. It also wants to pull left now except under hard acceleration. They did at least get the rake set at 21.5" up front and 22.5" in back and so far no tire rub. I'm going to (gasp) take my truck into the dealer for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow and see if that helps any. Beginning to think the rack may need replacement. Visual and pry bar inspection of the rack shows no issues with the bushings but I don't really know what would dictate a rack or bushing issue.

 

[spressomon]

Well...if the rack doesn't show signs of play, and I assume its not leaking, then why do you think it needs to be replaced? Steering wheel alignment is a separate issue...

Regarding pull: It originally, in your first post, pulled right...and now it pulls left? How much experience does your alignment shop/guy have? I do know from experience about 90% of the "alignment techs" don't have a clue beyond basic non-lifted passenger car text book alignment processes. You might, for grins, ask around racing (any type of auto racing) circles to see who they recommend/trust with their alignments...

Have you tried rotating tires to see if the pull changes? I've got a buddy with an '06 4R and he's had a tough time finding tires that wouldn't pull...just more food for thought.


The other relatively simple/quick thing you can do is remove the front driveshaft...then lock your CDL. You'll quickly be able to eliminate drivetrain torque from your symptoms.

 

[bluecruiser]

I would definitely look for a good alignment shop...doesn't sound like a rack is your issue since the direction of the pull has now changed...I lowered my front to remedy my pulling..the awd makes this issue more pronounced...but it can be fixed.

 

[Griffin]

Or you can try something like this.

 

[krnnerdboy]

Caster basics:
When you lift the truck the caster diminishes and is unadjustable except through the uca posted above.
Caster plays a role to give a solid feeling on the highway, center your steering wheel after turning, and it can effect the side to side pull of the truck w/o wearing tires.

Add the diminished caster, extra power, and awd and you have torque steer. It's quite commonly experienced with the other 100's from across the pond with their tuned diesel variants.

You can alleviate some torque steer via alignment by adding a little toe in or adding caster by lowering. Either case I think you need a new alignment tech. With laser guided alignments, their is no excuse for a crooked steering wheel

 

[00N8]

Local dealer said they won't touch it

Still trying to find a decent alignment shop, the dealer did put the rig up on a lift and were speculating that since the johnny joints are all forward that maybe the back end is wiggling around. I'm trying to track down the Metal Tech installation instructions and can't find them to refer too.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Finding a shop that really understands the modified geometry on our lifted rigs is hard. Even though I have lifetime alignments at Firestone on my LC, They dont touch it. It was just too painful trying to get a decent alignment and with the TC UCA's posted above I ended up having to rebuild them after 9 months of having them because Firestone couldn't get it right. In the end I found a shop that builds trophy trucks and knows modified suspension geometry. I only have them do the work now.

Also, regarding Caster and TC UCA's or other brands. It is often touted that they will bring your caster back with in OEM spec. However, dont count on it. There are a few people that have reported it helping. But, most have not been able to get Caster back within spec running these. When talking with my shop (that was recommended by Total Chaos) they said it is thier experience that they are never fully able to get everything with in spec and that since Total Chaos does not publish what the new specs should be with these the go by the OEM specs and based on experience aligning modified trucks. My point is dont believe the hype regarding caster with these. It may or may not help.

I would seriously follow Spresso's recommendations. It is all based on personal experience and a ton of time working and modifying this platform. He has always been spot on in my experience.

 

[krnnerdboy]

Well...if the rack doesn't show signs of play, and I assume its not leaking, then why do you think it needs to be replaced? Steering wheel alignment is a separate issue...

Regarding pull: It originally, in your first post, pulled right...and now it pulls left? How much experience does your alignment shop/guy have? I do know from experience about 90% of the "alignment techs" don't have a clue beyond basic non-lifted passenger car text book alignment processes. You might, for grins, ask around racing (any type of auto racing) circles to see who they recommend/trust with their alignments...

Have you tried rotating tires to see if the pull changes? I've got a buddy with an '06 4R and he's had a tough time finding tires that wouldn't pull...just more food for thought.


The other relatively simple/quick thing you can do is remove the front driveshaft...then lock your CDL. You'll quickly be able to eliminate drivetrain torque from your symptoms.

Spot on, you'll find that you will knock out a lot of probable causes using this process of elimination which can be done at home.

Btw doing your own alignment on a solid rear axle vehicle is simple. I've been doing my own after having an experience such as yours. All of my vehicles car great tracking, tire wear and handling but most of all, I get to change my alignment according to the track I'm on.

 

[00N8]

Well...if the rack doesn't show signs of play, and I assume its not leaking, then why do you think it needs to be replaced? Steering wheel alignment is a separate issue...

Regarding pull: It originally, in your first post, pulled right...and now it pulls left? How much experience does your alignment shop/guy have? I do know from experience about 90% of the "alignment techs" don't have a clue beyond basic non-lifted passenger car text book alignment processes. You might, for grins, ask around racing (any type of auto racing) circles to see who they recommend/trust with their alignments...

Have you tried rotating tires to see if the pull changes? I've got a buddy with an '06 4R and he's had a tough time finding tires that wouldn't pull...just more food for thought.

The other relatively simple/quick thing you can do is remove the front driveshaft...then lock your CDL. You'll quickly be able to eliminate drivetrain torque from your symptoms.

I don't think its the rack, that was one shop's opinion. On shop three now and I think I found a place that understands 4x4 and modified rigs finally.








I counted 51 trophies for muddin and other off roadin awards.

My caster was "negative" this shop told me. And that it had not been adjusted in forever given the Virginia rust still on it. Caster started with a .85 and .90 and they adjusted it as much as they could and ended at 1.95 and 2.03. Oem spec should be 3.05 both sides give or take .8 but with the lift the best they could get was the 1.95 and 2.03.

Also noticed my tires had 50psi in them, ugh. Lowering them to 35 to see if that stops some of the bouncing.

 

[00N8]

You should also check/have them check the rear upper control arm bushings for wear. BTW: You need to fully remove the UCA to rightfully inspect. Severely worn bushings will give the exact same symptom...based upon my experience with all things suspension related on my 100.

Although I had play in my first rack and was convinced my adverse steering effect under lively acceleration/WOT was indeed the rack it turned out to be the worn out rear UCA bushings. I've once again got play in my 2nd rack but it just translates to highway wander not torque steer.

This assumes, of course, your front ride height (and related CV and steering component angles) is not adjusted too high and contributing a similar symptom...eliminate the easiest to fix first!

While you're there...be sure to check the rear lower control arm bushings too...

Dan

Sage advice. After having shop #1 (that did the lift install and rear upper and lower link install) adjust the front rake down slightly and a real alignment shop adjust the front with a 4 wheel laser alignment machine they noticed the rear metal tech links were installed and adjusted in such a way that had the passenger rear tire sticking out about an inch or two too far so the truck's back end was simulating a left turn constantly.

Unfortunately time tonight did not allow for rear link adjustment. I did notice on the 50 mile ride home that 80-90% of the "torque" steer right hand pull was gone and all of the wandering was gone. Hopefully adjusting the rear links finishes this troublesome little issue for good.

 

[spressomon]

^ glad to hear you are finally making progress!

 

[00N8]

I would not have guessed you would get fender liner interference with 275/70-18's! Unless maybe Toyo MT's

Also: Be sure to check the rear UCA and LCA mounting bolts...they may have worked loose (or not)...easier to thoroughly check them at little to no cost before you go the rack route.

Ok, I'm an idiot, the rub is on the front passenger side and. It's the damn plastic from the fender right on the pinch weld. Time to do some modding... I know I saw a post of someone detailing how to cut that part of the inner fender and bang out the pinch weld. Now where I saw that is another story.

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[spressomon]

^ there are quite a few found under "pinch weld"...here's one: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/515785-pinch-seam-flattening.html

 

[00N8]

Got my rear upper and lower links re adjusted and aligned and my crazy pull is 98% gone. I think any leftover pull is just normal torque steer.

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