Pinch Seam Flattening

[Gunga Galunga]

I've got a 2006 LC with 2.5" lift with no body lift and currently run GY Wrangler Silent Armour 33" tires. I really like these tires, very little road noise, good all round/all year traction in So. Oregon and have ~25,000 miles (and a more than half the tread worn). However, I'm looking at going larger. Haven't decided on what, but have narrowed it down to Nitto Trail Grappler, Toyo Open Country MT, or GY Wrangler MT with Kevlar. All of them on an 18" rims are between ~34.6 - 35.2". My questions are: 1) Is it necessary to flatten the pinch seam to run any tire larger than 33"? 2) If so, do you need to cut the plastic wheel well liner or can you remove it, fatten the pinch seam/paint or seal the metal, and then replace the liner for better protection? 3) If flattening is neceassary, is it just a matter of smashing it down with a small mal hammer. Any particular technique advised?

 

[hoser]

Since you said you really like your current tires because they are quiet and good all around tires, I'd recommend the GY MT/R-K's... and I'd also recommend them in the 285/75R18 size. For this size, you do need to knock down the pinch weld.

To knock it down, remove the wheel, cut out the plastic and knocked down the metal 6lb mall (or whatever you have) towards the outside. I also trimmed the extreme lower metal portion for better drainage. This picture is of the initial cut but I have cut out the plastic higher since then. You can't just replace the plastic as it is bulbous in shape. You could probably get some flat plastic for some patchwork though and figure out how to secure it.

 

[pfran42]

I have 295/70/18 Trail Grapplers with a 2.75" lift and had to trim a corner off the wheel well liner and then use a Dremel with a grinding wheel to flatten out the pinch weld.

I would say that you have to cut the liner b/c even if you flatten the pinch weld, the tire still wants to peel it back when turning. It is a very small section that got cut and you won't see it unless I point it out.

Now it rubs a little off road at full lock, control arms show very slight rubbing and the frame has one 2 inch wide spot on each side that looks like it gets contact. Tires look fine though.

I would seriously suggest re-gearing to 4.88s if you decide on 35s as my truck was always hunting for gears when highway cruising and it was very annoying....and while they have everything torn apart you might as well save yourself from double labor down the road and install lockers...and while they are installing air lockers you might as well...(you see where this is going)...

 

[hoser]

Re: regearing... Gunga has an '06.... so, not as necessary.

 

[wildsmith]

Now it rubs a little off road at full lock, control arms show very slight rubbing and the frame has one 2 inch wide spot on each side that looks like it gets contact. Tires look fine though.

I run 20mm spacers when I have the 18's on and they're enough to stop the control arm and frame rubbing. The OEM 18's have enough recess between the stud holes to work with 20mm spacers.