Just an opinion - but I would not replace a capture ring with an E-clip , the ring will hold better and withstand vibration/heat compared to E-clips ....Sarge
...I agree with Weber Sarge regarding the E clip....
Thanks guys..
I was very wary when fitting that E-clip too.
Trouble is, there is so little substance to the original Toyota clip that the big washer beneath was almost able to lift right out over the top!
I did try pushing that E-clip back off with my fingers and I couldn't easily do it.
And I tried putting an extra washer (a thin one) beneath the E-clip but even with the thinnest I had, I couldn't get the E-clip back on.
And I tried using a bigger E-clip (so that it came around the pin a bit further) ... but that didn't work out because I couldn't get it to grip the pin solidly enough once it was on there.
Worst thing that can happen is that it simply falls off anyway.. (The springs will still keep the washer there. And I can't see it doing much in the way of damage if it does fall off to be honest.)
Which brings me back to thinking why that other clip broke and caused my handbrake failure in the first place... I really don't know.. The pin (on which that clip sits) is not one an owner should ever need to touch ... So I think it is doubtful that I caused the failure by poor fitment of the clip. (Oh And BTW
@JohnnyC ..what do you think of the absence of any washer there beneath that clip .... on my new lever-mechanism as supplied by Toyota?)
The worst mistake I appear to have made was putting the lower spring in front of the shoes when it should have been behind.. (And that would have tended to make the shoes want to pull away from the backing plate instead of sliding against it at those spots one is supposed to lube.) And that doesn't appear to be any major error to me. (I bet people do it all the time.)
And now that I've been in there again ... I retract the opinion I gave at the start that this handbrake design lacks robustness.... It now seems very SOLIDLY engineered to me (with another failure seeming highly unlikely .... even if that Eclip were to come off..)
Maybe I'll search back in my lengthy maintenance records to see if I have a record of ever doing anything to that lever-setup inside the drum. (I'll put the maintenance book in amongst the stuff I take to work today so I can go through it in a spare moment.)
So basically .....I've already staked the nut (and I might go back today and do a better job of that "staking" too) and can't think of a way to improve what I've done with that E-clip so I think I'll leave it be....
...I here you have a drought in the main land of NZ. ....
Yep. The farmers are bleating JB. And immediately the Government is handing out the dole to them and giving them tax relief etc (completely unlike they way they behave with any other business .. such as an engineering company ... faced with similar financial hardship.) And how does this not amount to "the Governmemt subsidising the farming industry" (and thereby giving it an unfair advantage on the world-trade scene)? .................(I've always wondered this.)
No doubt I've instantly gained enemies from all those with close farming connections now LOL...
...If the oil in my TC looked like your i would be having it analyzed by an oil tester. Your bus line probably has someone who does it for them.
The transfer case does have some bushings in the high and low gears on the output shaft. They are a steel backed bronze material. The oil could have an effect on the bronze. If turns out that the contamination is rust I would pull the PTO box for look inside of it and the TC to see what the gears look like. Never liked Castrol oils always stuck with Shell products. It could be the oil is at fault?
I suppose the rust could migrate in the TC from the speedo cable, but that would be a pretty easy check, the inner cable can be pulled out of the sheath from the bottom. I would think you would have a jumpy speedo and some noise if the cable was that bad.
If the oil has too much water in it usually goes like cream because of the whipping action of the gears....
I've not found any problem with Castrol products.... But then I do just as happily use brands like "Valvoline".
Shell doesn't often have discount prices.
And I try to avoid going down the path of "selecting certain more-expensive lubricants based on a perception of "better quality" because perceptions are so often based on misconceptions or even cunning salesmanship. (Brands work tirelessly to pamper their image.)
To me, buying one oil that's twice as expensive as another seems unwise when logic tells me that it is just as cheap to change the cheap oil twice as often and that doing so would probably reduce wear more effectively.. (But having said that, I'd never go for rock-bottom-price oils or those sold under obscure brands.)
I see you're skeptical of my speedo-cable theory....
I'm adamant that there's never been any water in that transfer case..
And I think that contamination is far too heavy for it to have come from any oil-additive-reaction problem. (Besides...The same oil is in use everywhere else in my transmission line with no discolouration effect.)
And I did apply heaps of grease to that speedo cable.
And I do know that that grease turned into a "yucky mess" because I remember it oozing out at the combination meter end when I last took the cable off there.
And those cables are indeed subject to a lot of wear from my experience (when dry and unlubricated)...
.....My son has a gas Nissan Xterra beater and complains its not a diesel. He only wants to drive diesels.
Thanks jb
He's a wise man...
What do you think of the GL5 debate JB?
I'm going to stick with using my existing supplies of GL5 and make a decision on whether to swap to GL4 when that runs out..
And does anyone have any photographic evidence of GL5 attack on 40-series gearbox components?
(But as you know, I like to keep mine basically stock so such a mod would be far too radical for me.)