fourtrax
SILVER Star
The Food and the wrenching was awesome. It was good to see everyone. Thanks for hosting.
HAMOM request March 4
- Thread starter Mtbcoach
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks for catching those shots, I'm hoping others took some to share. I went out to take a few pics of completed work...
Front axle installed, rebuilt with "real" Longfields, grooved for the rebuilt Aisin hubs, re-geared with 4.88's from ECGS, Marlin inner seals and UMMV wipers on the knuckles, all bushings replaced with new OEM and tie-rod-ends screwed into a set of Budbuilt links, fresh OME steering stabiler that I never installed with the kit 7 years ago.
For those with a better cruiser tech knowledge than I can see, we installed a HF1A transfer case with Marlin gears & spool. When I asked Eric to rebuild it, I thought I bought a used HF2A(V) that he was going to convert to part-time as well as installing the Marlin stuff. I could say that was planned, being the best option to convert to part-time but it wasn't. I clearly need to do my homework better when I buy things like this. However, it is the best option, eliminates the extended tail piece that houses the viscous coupler, good luck or is it dumb luck?
This means I need to lengthen the rear driveshaft which isn't a big deal in the grand scheme of things. The rear axles has been rebuilt with fresh seals and bearings (heavy work done by Garrett and Brian) waiting for me to finish by dropping the diff in and axle shafts, rebuilding the rear calipers before I finish with new rotors.
As I've read thru many threads, pushing the old bushing out sucks and consumed a crap load of time, as did the u-joints. Considering that I have 8 more to push out of the rear (10 if I decide to do the panhard), I've got to come up with a home made tool to get it done easier. Yet, pushing out the center and cutting relief cuts in the sleeve worked well, just a time consuming process. I may have the driveshaft shop install the new u-joints when they lengthen the rear just to save the stress and reduce any failures I may induce due to lack of experience.
Massive steps completed toward baselineing this rig from bottom up, something I couldn't accomplish without being part of ONSC...
Front axle installed, rebuilt with "real" Longfields, grooved for the rebuilt Aisin hubs, re-geared with 4.88's from ECGS, Marlin inner seals and UMMV wipers on the knuckles, all bushings replaced with new OEM and tie-rod-ends screwed into a set of Budbuilt links, fresh OME steering stabiler that I never installed with the kit 7 years ago.
For those with a better cruiser tech knowledge than I can see, we installed a HF1A transfer case with Marlin gears & spool. When I asked Eric to rebuild it, I thought I bought a used HF2A(V) that he was going to convert to part-time as well as installing the Marlin stuff. I could say that was planned, being the best option to convert to part-time but it wasn't. I clearly need to do my homework better when I buy things like this. However, it is the best option, eliminates the extended tail piece that houses the viscous coupler, good luck or is it dumb luck?
This means I need to lengthen the rear driveshaft which isn't a big deal in the grand scheme of things. The rear axles has been rebuilt with fresh seals and bearings (heavy work done by Garrett and Brian) waiting for me to finish by dropping the diff in and axle shafts, rebuilding the rear calipers before I finish with new rotors.
As I've read thru many threads, pushing the old bushing out sucks and consumed a crap load of time, as did the u-joints. Considering that I have 8 more to push out of the rear (10 if I decide to do the panhard), I've got to come up with a home made tool to get it done easier. Yet, pushing out the center and cutting relief cuts in the sleeve worked well, just a time consuming process. I may have the driveshaft shop install the new u-joints when they lengthen the rear just to save the stress and reduce any failures I may induce due to lack of experience.
Massive steps completed toward baselineing this rig from bottom up, something I couldn't accomplish without being part of ONSC...
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yes - leave u-joints to those with skill and patience. To those with neither it is at least a 
Job.
Job.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
X2 on the U joints, I have both driveshafts rebuilt on every swap, new U joints are part of it. They do them day in day out, let them do what they do best as you have the shaft there anyway.
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lumbee1
Native American
Who had my box of parts: grease gun, grease, hammers, u-joint tools?
fourtrax
SILVER Star
i have your parts box, not sure about a u-joint tool. there are some misc metal parts in the box (pipe, plate with a small pipe welded on, etc.)
lumbee1
Native American
Thanks Eric! Yeah, those are my U-joint tools that I used to swap U-joints.
- Thread starter
- #71
Is this the shop you guys mentioned?
Triangle driveshaft service
3424 Paulwood, Durham
Gave him a call, sounded right from our discussion, dropping off today...
Triangle driveshaft service
3424 Paulwood, Durham
Gave him a call, sounded right from our discussion, dropping off today...
Yup, that's the one.
Yup, he's out there but good. Don't forget to go ahead and ask to have him do it in DOM for extra strength.
- Thread starter
- #74
Life goal out there, nice and quiet and amazing shop...
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
For future reference would y'all recommend this guy for my 40 shafts when time? One will need to be a DC shaft. I had figured on sending to tom woods but prefer to support local folks when possible.
- Thread starter
- #76
I'll follow up after I pick up mine, looking at his shop, and after talking with him, I'm confident he has the expertise...
Yup. Go talk to him.
I used to use Oliver's in Winston Salem but for the last project I used Triangle. Much more convenient.
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Another vote for Triangle Driveshaft. I've had him do some work for me before and I've never been anything less that very pleased with the quality of his work.
