HAMOM Parasitic Draw/Ground issue. (1 Viewer)

[Ghostrider I]

Right. The Diesel is draining when it sits for a period of time. Additionally, the volt meter bounces when the signals are on, auxiliary gauges do not work, and the tach bounces when the signals are on.
I'd like to get this done more sooner than later. Lunch/dinner on me for the assistance.

 

[lt1fire]

Sounds like its knackered..... I'll take it off your hands for tree fiddy

Some things to check would be grounds. Does the aux gauges only die when the turn signal is on? My buddy did have a similar issue on another car and it was a break in the printed circuit board behind the gauge but I'll say that is rare and the issue is more than likely a ground.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Um. Not selling but want to help fixing it? Unfortunately, my driveway has a 45 degree slope.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Sounds like its knackered..... I'll take it off your hands for tree fiddy

Some things to check would be grounds. Does the aux gauges only die when the turn signal is on? My buddy did have a similar issue on another car and it was a break in the printed circuit board behind the gauge but I'll say that is rare and the issue is more than likely a ground.

Aux gauges do not work at all, aside from the boost gauge.

 

[Roxx]

I am not good with electrical issues. Sorry.

 

[lumbee1]

Every electrical issue I've had on my Toyotas went away on their own except for the one on the VW GTI.

The battery drain on the GTI really had me confused. I had to jump the car before I drove it and didn't trust it to start no matter how many miles it had been running previously. Eventually I found out that the VW gas cap was causing the battery to drain. A broken seal on the gas cap caused the purge valve under the hood to activate in an attempt to remove excess fuel vapor from the evap system, even when the car was off. I never heard the purge valve running but found a forum post from a VW technician with all the details. I replaced the gas cap and all works well.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Every electrical issue I've had on my Toyotas went away on their own except for the one on the VW GTI.

The battery drain on the GTI really had me confused. I had to jump the car before I drove it and didn't trust it to start no matter how many miles it had been running previously. Eventually I found out that the VW gas cap was causing the battery to drain. A broken seal on the gas cap caused the purge valve under the hood to activate in an attempt to remove excess fuel vapor from the evap system, even when the car was off. I never heard the purge valve running but found a forum post from a VW technician with all the details. I replaced the gas cap and all works well.

Hmmm. But I don't think a 91 Turbo diesel Land Cruiser would that be high tech.
My money is riding on grounds, but where to start?

 

[lumbee1]

Hmmm. But I don't think a 91 Turbo diesel Land Cruiser would that be high tech.
My money is riding on grounds, but where to start?

There are 4 grounds. Try cleaning the mounting surface for each one.

• Starting battery to block ground cable
• Starting battery to fender ground cable
• Firewall to block ground cable
• Transfer case to body ground cable

 

[Ghostrider I]

There are 4 grounds. Try cleaning the mounting surface for each one.

• Starting battery to block ground cable
• Starting battery to fender ground cable
• Firewall to block ground cable
• Transfer case to body ground cable

Where on the Transfer case is the ground wire

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Here is my thoughts on battery cables. It's a 91. I would and do build all my own now. It takes that out of the equation. Just a thought. And yes these things need good grounds. I myself ground the engine, frame and body with large ground cables. I use welding wire.

 

[lt1fire]

Um. Not selling but want to help fixing it? Unfortunately, my driveway has a 45 degree slope.

Yeah I figured you weren't selling it for tree fiddy, thats a joke.

Kind of hard for me to go and help unless you want to send a round trip plane ticket and even then I really hate electrical issues. But my money is on grounds or bad battery cables. There should be 4 major grounds like most 80's. Check those out, check your FSM if you don't know where they are, if you don't have an FSM grab one. Best tool you can have.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Yeah I figured you weren't selling it for tree fiddy, thats a joke.

Kind of hard for me to go and help unless you want to send a round trip plane ticket and even then I really hate electrical issues. But my money is on grounds or bad battery cables. There should be 4 major grounds like most 80's. Check those out, check your FSM if you don't know where they are, if you don't have an FSM grab one. Best tool you can have.

I know it was a joke, now if you are to add say three zeroes at the end of the three fiddy, maybe.

 

[jfz80]

Lolz. Getting carried away on the zeros again.
35k is already a stretch but 350k? I’d probably buy one without electrical issues at that lower price point.

It’s a small case and easy to inspect. Crawl under the rig and you should be able to see tcase ground strap.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Lolz. Getting carried away on the zeros again.
35k is already a stretch but 350k? I’d probably buy one without electrical issues at that lower price point.

It’s a small case and easy to inspect. Crawl under the rig and you should be able to see tcase ground strap.

I'm jesting. Thanks for pointing out the t-case ground.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Lolz. Getting carried away on the zeros again.
35k is already a stretch but 350k? I’d probably buy one without electrical issues at that lower price point.

It’s a small case and easy to inspect. Crawl under the rig and you should be able to see tcase ground strap.

Actually, a LHD 5 speed is rare in North America.

 

[jfz80]

Actually, a LHD 5 speed is rare in North America.

Sure it is. Just not 35 or 350k rare

 

[Ghostrider I]

Sure it is. Just not 35 or 350k rare

Might want to peruse bringatrailer.com

 

[jfz80]

Pass but thanks. Maybe you should sell it once you get it reliable? I actually prefer non inflated market sources to ascertain a true value.

3 RHD listed on mud for under 30 currently.

But for 35 in LHD flavor I’d want a HD-T at this level of build and the ability to start after sitting 2 weeks.

SOLD - SPF AB, CAN: '92 HDJ80 Build

Build Highlights: Drivetrain: - 1HD-T swap using new factory dash harness - 110k kms since refresh (68,350 miles) - Safari Intercooler with Gturbo Grunter Extreme - Beaudesert Stainless Exhaust and 4” dump pipe - OEM Front & Rear E-Lockers with full floaters front and rear - OEM ‘94 + Big Brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Dont have the 80 so can’t look at ground locations :/

 

[NCFJ]

I am with Darin, replace all your primary ground cables for starters. I too use welding cables. Frame, block, body, radiator are the standards for me. Also a ground to the dash area, I install bus bars there. I also run a dedicated ground to the fuel pump and things like Amps and lighting. There are body grounds all over your truck. They are listed in the FSM. Always a good idea to remove the screw holding them and clean them up. External tooth lock washers of the proper size are great between the ring terminal and the body.

 

[lumbee1]

I purchased a ground wire kit off the forums but wish I would have made my own. Would have saved me a few bucks.