Builds Halo's New Ride

[Aalien]

Halo, in the pics of the front of your frame a couple of post up, there's and ammo can sitting there. Where the heck did you find it? I've only ever seen one other that size and it was shot (literaly). Anyway, I've been trying to find one to make a console out of.

 

[71-CRUISER]

im assuming...the top of the knuckle needs to be set back 4 degrees from level? right now they are forward of level, tierod facing the ground, i need to grind off the welds, roll them back, past level, and point the tie rod towards the sky right?

NO NO NO...... the caster should be about 4-8* positive. the front should be lower than the back. If you do it the other way the truck will be un-driveable. (think shoping cart) you want the front wheels to try and go strait not the other way (death wobble galore)

WTF do i do with all the drum s***? throw it away? sell it on ebay?

I think I threw all mine away. you might hold onto the birfs but they will be about the only thing you will be able to sell.

 

[66fj40x2]

Halo - Damn fine work!

I'm a slow reader, but where it you get the turn signals, and where did you finally mount them? I know that's like 3 pages ago.....I said I'm sslllooooooooooooooooowwww.

 

[Halogrinder]

the ammo can is from a friend in the marines.


to clarify my caster.


the truck is facing this way ====>
looking from the passenger side



the front axle has been turned so now the knuckles are facing downward like this "/"


i need to cut the knuckles and turn them so that they go past level centerline "|" and put them at about 4degrees back, like this "\" right?



:edit: ill post up a pic of the turn signals where i put them. basicly i put them above the bezel, like my previous pics, and put it in the front clip, above the headlamps.

they are off of a 2004 BMW convertible side marker lamps

 

[71-CRUISER]

to clarify my caster.

the truck is facing this way ====>
looking from the passenger side

the front axle has been turned so now the knuckles are facing downward like this "/"

i need to cut the knuckles and turn them so that they go past level centerline "|" and put them at about 4degrees back, like this "\" right?

NO.... with the truck facing ====>
the caster should be "/" which is positive and should be 4-8* so with yours at 7* you should be fine with out doing a cut and turn.

Most people do a cut and turn with a SOA because they point the pinion at the t-case which gives the front axle to much positive caster (around 20*+) so they have to "cut and turn" to bring the caster back into range.

 

[74fj40]

Halo, in the pics of the front of your frame a couple of post up, there's and ammo can sitting there. Where the heck did you find it? I've only ever seen one other that size and it was shot (literaly). Anyway, I've been trying to find one to make a console out of.

I picked one up at a military surplus store, its like a foot and a half by 2 feet, it was 9 bucks!!

 

[Halogrinder]

NO.... with the truck facing ====>
the caster should be "/" which is positive and should be 4-8* so with yours at 7* you should be fine with out doing a cut and turn.

Most people do a cut and turn with a SOA because they point the pinion at the t-case which gives the front axle to much positive caster (around 20*+) so they have to "cut and turn" to bring the caster back into range.

ok so thats what i did, i pointed my pinion at the tcase.....so i guess ill just put a dial protractor on top of the knuckles to see how many degrees im at then....

 

[cruiser ken]

NO.... with the truck facing ====>
the caster should be "/" which is positive and should be 4-8* so with yours at 7* you should be fine with out doing a cut and turn.

Most people do a cut and turn with a SOA because they point the pinion at the t-case which gives the front axle to much positive caster (around 20*+) so they have to "cut and turn" to bring the caster back into range.

What you described is negative caster assuming you are drawing a line between the upper and lower bearings (steering axis).

When you rotate the pinion toward the tcase your knuckles rotate the WRONG way for caster. You end up with negative caster and it drives like absolute s***.

http://www.aligncraft.com/terms/terms.html#FrontCaster

 

[TonkaC]

I thought halo was right... haven't done it yet, but had the plan in my head a long time

 

[Halogrinder]

thats what i thought!!! i knew i was right!


i was getting all fawkered up by all the ===>'s and whatnot. i still need to cut and turn my junk

 

[71-CRUISER]

Well call me an idiot. I just had it backwards.

I guess that makes two of us that get to do a cut and turn.

 

[poldo]

Halo, in the pics of the front of your frame a couple of post up, there's and ammo can sitting there. Where the heck did you find it? I've only ever seen one other that size and it was shot (literaly). Anyway, I've been trying to find one to make a console out of.

Do I get a medal ?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

 

[poldo]

spring doesn't line up

Hey Halo since you have been there already you might be able to help
I removed the old rotten shackles and fabricated some hangers longer than the original and are going to be mounted closer to the front than the original ones so I can lay back the shakles without flattening the springs too much
my dilemma as you can see from the picture is the position of the spring relative to the frame, It's totally off to the the inside on both sides.
I know the frame is straight as I measured it before taking the shackles off
so I am hoping this is just normal being that there is no shackles yet .
This is moore evident as the spring have a load than when they are free but still there even without any load..

?????? help
PS the front shackles and hanger are still mounted

 

[Halogrinder]

shoulda taken a pic of it before you started it then...the factory cross member and shackle hanger puts them inside the frame rail. look at what i did, i replaced the crossmember with 2x3 box steel, and made my own hangers. and yes, the measurements suck to do, cause the frame rails get skinner the farther u go back on the frame

 

[poldo]

shoulda taken a pic of it before you started it then...the factory cross member and shackle hanger puts them inside the frame rail. look at what i did, i replaced the crossmember with 2x3 box steel, and made my own hangers. and yes, the measurements suck to do, cause the frame rails get skinner the farther u go back on the frame

Thanks Halo my "before" picture didn't help because the hanger and part of the frame was rotten out, the spring where actually hanging by a sliver of steel but the eye of the spring was leaning on what was left of the frame .

I already made the hangers pretty much the same as yours but a tad longer
If this is how the spring are then I can easily modify the hanger and move them inward rather than parallel to the frame.
I was using
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/shackle.html

as a reference and it looks like the hangers are mounted straight on the frame which makes sense because they are in line with the front hanger look at my picture to get an idea on how bad it was
I am going to try and loosen the ubolts to see if I can center the springs

 

[poldo]

perhaps a guiness or two will help.... this thing must have been sitting in the water from the rear shocks to the bumper because the rest of the frame has hardly any rust if I can solve this problem I am 3/4 of the way done

 

[poldo]

Probelm solved loosening the plates and ubolts gave me enough play to reposition the spring and lined them up with the shackles
thanks

 

[Halogrinder]

GAWD DAMN!!!! i thought i had some rust issues!!!!!!



the reason i didnt use my stock rear hangers, was that someone welded pipe over them and it was too much trouble to try and save them...oh well

 

[poldo]

GAWD DAMN!!!! i thought i had some rust issues!!!!!!



the reason i didnt use my stock rear hangers, was that someone welded pip over them and it was too much trouble to try and save them...oh well

The PO was so lazy that instead of trying to repair the frame he got a cheap sway bar and bolt it near the frame crack
to keep it all togheter... the fxxxer..

anyway I think I got the frame fixed and I am waiting for those slow people over at JT cruiser for my shackles , the rear floor is done the middle and front sections will be done this week and the wheel well hopefully also this week.
I found some 1/8" diamond steel plate made in russia for the wheel well
at the local scrap yard .. nice it's going to be very heavy though.
Then put the wheels on and cross my fingers that everything is square.. I can see the end of the tunnel but I still have to tihnk about painting it.. any idea? I like the original mustard yellow I wish someone had a spray on bed liner of the same color

by the way that is where I put the tail lights I am not sure I like it but I already cut the corner one too many

 

[poldo]

The reason I didn't fabricate the shakles is that I got some carpal tunnel or tendinites from the grinding and cutting it really hurts so I wanted to cut down on my fabrication.