LAMBCRUSHER
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- #41
here ya go...
Haff Hawged
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thats awesome !!!! now i cant wait to see what you end up doing.
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #44
there were times I almost gave into the unibody, but I like the way this road is lookin so far...gunna play with the rear door shells tomorrow. depending on the way things go, I may be able to bolt in the rear wall. well, before I weld it in of course...it only took 2 sawzall blades!
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #45
the b pillar is fairly sturdy by itself FYI.....may not have to get as structural as I had originally thought.
the b pillar is fairly sturdy by itself FYI.....may not have to get as structural as I had originally thought.
I've been wondering about the work I did myself. For the frame on the inside, I used 1 inch square tubing. I think I have a pick on my thread where it shows the frame. I fully welded it in at every joint, but I'm still not sure how strong it will be in a crash or rollover. I have a roll bar planned, but what I thought I should have done was fully integrate a rollcage into the design of the cab. Are you planning on doing anything for the cab?
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #47
if so, then it will be exso. there will be a full rack on the flat bed. Prolly not so much of an extreme 4X as much as a get to the jobsite in any road conditions
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #48
startin to think harder about a removable hart top.....and one shot of Shasta...
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
Back Panel Bracing
I messed around with your pic to give a basic
of what you could do to strengthen the rear panel area. I'd cap off the rear doors & box out around the top w/ 3/16" plate (red) & tie it in angular to the frame.
The inner braces (green) could be 1 3/4" .120 wall & the plate (pink) 3/16". You could panelize the rest w/ 16 ga. sheet metal. As far as a window, I'm sure you could cut a piece of plexiglass, or other, to follow the line of the tubular brace. Box out the top deep enough to attach an inner roll cage tube to follow the roofline & terminate thru the floor to the frame. Then, just add a crossbar(s) across the windshield & top of dash.
I ran some 2" .120 wall thru the boxed area & used 1/8" plate surround. I felt I needed to have the tube due to my rear is fully open. I was also able to hide my gas evap. tank in the left C pillar.
I messed around with your pic to give a basic
of what you could do to strengthen the rear panel area. I'd cap off the rear doors & box out around the top w/ 3/16" plate (red) & tie it in angular to the frame.The inner braces (green) could be 1 3/4" .120 wall & the plate (pink) 3/16". You could panelize the rest w/ 16 ga. sheet metal. As far as a window, I'm sure you could cut a piece of plexiglass, or other, to follow the line of the tubular brace. Box out the top deep enough to attach an inner roll cage tube to follow the roofline & terminate thru the floor to the frame. Then, just add a crossbar(s) across the windshield & top of dash.
I ran some 2" .120 wall thru the boxed area & used 1/8" plate surround. I felt I needed to have the tube due to my rear is fully open. I was also able to hide my gas evap. tank in the left C pillar.
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LAMBCRUSHER
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- #50
I think I ought to feel bad for not using your advise here, considering the source...
. I appreciate the thought, but I am not going to get that critical w/ the structure. Now there will be some bolstering, but I don't think I'm going to go any farther than toyota did in the first place
. The b pillars are fairly stout, and the spans have all shrunk....the rear open end of the doors will be plated w/ 1/8"x6", then there will be some filler between the body and the rear door sections and they will be welded all the way around. Will cap off the tops of the rear door bits w/ some smallish angle. There will be a header cross member and middle crossmember made from 1/8" 1x4, and a bottom crossmember made from whatever stock I deem suitable at that point in the game. I will use 12 gauge to skin the rear firewall. This leaves the rear open (at window elevations)from the back of the b pillar and back to wrap around where there should be a c pillar.... maybe a piece of plexi bent to shape...(like a C) and bolted in place as a rear window. this way i can remove it in summer time.... this thought got me thinkin about chopping the b pillars and then slicing above the windshield and makin some type of clip system to give me an RHT FJ50 something MWB cab chassis.....
. I appreciate the thought, but I am not going to get that critical w/ the structure. Now there will be some bolstering, but I don't think I'm going to go any farther than toyota did in the first place. The b pillars are fairly stout, and the spans have all shrunk....the rear open end of the doors will be plated w/ 1/8"x6", then there will be some filler between the body and the rear door sections and they will be welded all the way around. Will cap off the tops of the rear door bits w/ some smallish angle. There will be a header cross member and middle crossmember made from 1/8" 1x4, and a bottom crossmember made from whatever stock I deem suitable at that point in the game. I will use 12 gauge to skin the rear firewall. This leaves the rear open (at window elevations)from the back of the b pillar and back to wrap around where there should be a c pillar.... maybe a piece of plexi bent to shape...(like a C) and bolted in place as a rear window. this way i can remove it in summer time.... this thought got me thinkin about chopping the b pillars and then slicing above the windshield and makin some type of clip system to give me an RHT FJ50 something MWB cab chassis.....
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
The behind what I drew was to eliminate the tacky exo look :barf: & to give it a *more cleaner, finished look while still being a structural addition. I'll be interested to visualize what you come up with.
behind what I drew was to eliminate the tacky exo look :barf: & to give it a *more cleaner, finished look while still being a structural addition. I'll be interested to visualize what you come up with.
Yeah dog... go topless!
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #53
Gunna keep it a hard top for now...
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #54
completely cut out the rockers inners and outers. Welded in 1/8" X 4 plate from the inside upper lip of the door sill and tied them back into the minor body support channels...welded a 2 1/2" plate vertically to those and burned in the 2X4s
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #55
!/8" Z channel made the lower rear crossmember, and will be the basis of the rear body mounts...with some extra help, of course. Cut out the "rear" roof bow, and welded in the upper cross member: All 1/8" 2X. Stood up the rear uprights. Everything still "seems" to be sqar
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #56
I used thin scab plates at the top, and had to add a shim under the passenger side upright
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #57
thats all for now
hicruise55
IH8MUD VOYEUR
I had to do a similar chop to build my "rustfree" FJ55 and built a FJ55 trailer out of the the remaining parts... something to think about... Looking great! Can't wait to see your progress!
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #59
This will be going on the 77 frame...thinking about adding say 9" to it
it is a registered running chassis. then I'll think about dolling up the body on the 77 cab and planting it on a restoed 73 frame....
it is a registered running chassis. then I'll think about dolling up the body on the 77 cab and planting it on a restoed 73 frame....
LAMBCRUSHER
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- #60
found a nice piece of "junk" to use as the rear bulkhead skin...
