H55 with Split Case E-Brake Options- Anything New?? (1 Viewer)

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gwalt584

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I have secured an H55 and an 1987 FJ60 split case. The split case will get a rebuild. I have poured over all the threads about the conversion, read the rebuilds on the split case, explored the options on the e-brake solution.
My red 40 has a full float rear diff with a disc brake conversion using Monte Carlo calipers and GM truck rotors.
Options:
1- replace the rear axle with a 79-83 Fj40 axle with e-brake built in. Not my first choice because of my current full float setup.
2- find the conversion kit of the rear output shaft, rear bearing housing, brake drum and shoes.- Like finding a needle in a hay stake.
3- rear brake calipers with built in parking brake, El Dorado option. Might be my first choice, will require, park brake floor lever ($100), cable ($150), and El Dorado Calipers ($160 to $200 pair).

My question is, Is there anything new for the solution for e-brake in an FJ40 H55 conversion?
Gary

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Why not just get a $50 lever actuated line lock? I run one in my 1st gen pickup because of a rear disc conversion and it works great.
 
That would be an option if I wanted just a parking brake. I think I would like the option of having mechanical brakes in the event of hydraulic line failure.
Thanks for that input.
Gary
 
You could also try the TSM Parking Brake Kit for the Split Case:

http://www.tsmmfg.com/transfercasepark.html

I am using that on my BJ40 (but haven't put any miles on it to report how well/bad it works).

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A few more photos of this can be found on the thread for my BJ40.

Hope this helps!

-Alberto
 
I like the TSM Parking Brake Kit. I assume the nuts and washers come off the flange and the drive shaft goes over those bolts in the last picture.
Other questions:
Have you figured out any clearance issues in the 40?
are you going to use a floor mounted lever or under dash lever?
Based on which lever, what cable will you use?

Cool!
Thanks
Gary
 
Correct, the nuts and washers come off and the drive shaft will bolt right up.

Regarding your other questions, I bought the 60 series style park brake and the arm that will hold the park brake cable does interfere with the cross member that is right behind the transmission. However, the 40 series style seems to mount the caliper and arm on the lower portion of the transfer case and will/should eliminate this interference. The disc and caliper itself didn't hit the cross member, but the arm that holds the cable does. In my case (with a 4-cylinder 3B diesel engine), I opted to move the whole drivetrain forward a bit since my truck is still in the mock-up stages and delete this interference (plus, I am using a 70-series H55 and the top plate shifter didn't line-up with the hole in the floor for the shifter. Moving the drivetrain forward seemed to be the logical approach in my case).

I am going with a floor mounted lever (1979 truck) and haven't figured out if the stock cable will work or if I need to order the park brake cable that TSM offers to deal with this. Not sure yet.
 
Thanks for that info. I will contact TSM and look at the 40 option.
I read your thread on the BJ40 project. Nice work.
I am going from a V8 with Mark's Adapter with a stock Toyota BH to a AA BH. Therefore, I am replacing 12.75" wide Mark's adapter and Toyota BH with a AA 6.925" BH. Meaning the bellhousing set up is 5.825" shorter. The H55 and split case is approximately 2.5" longer than the H42 and TC. Therefore, the back of the transfer case should be approximately 3.325" forward of the stock 77 FJ40 TC. That is assuming I do not move the engine rearward. Because the shifter top plate is different on the H55 the shifter would be approximately 2.3" forward of the stock shifter position now.
I said all of that to say that I may have room for the 60 series brake.
so how much did you move the engine forward to clear?
Thanks
Gary
 
I think it was around 2-2.5". I didn't really measured how far forward to be honest. The fan shroud on the B/2B/3B engines is rather long (to compensate for the lack of 2-cylinders when compared to an F/2F/3F engines) and we were not concerned about how far forward we could go before running into radiator/fan interference. What we ended up doing was to locate the drivetrain (engine + H55 + Split Case bolted together) between frame rails and body tub until the H55 shifter was correctly centered on the floor opening for the transmission.

Hope this makes sense.

-Alberto
 
Options:
1- replace the rear axle with a 79-83 Fj40 axle with e-brake built in. Not my first choice because of my current full float setup.

Time frame was 8/80 and later. 79 and 80 models still had the one piece transfer with the hand brake. the 79 and later had the hand brake handle on the transmission hump but only had a short cable that ran to the transfer case for 79 and 80 models. There is a 8/80 and later 4X series full floater rear axle with the hand brake. Not imported to the US but they are around, I have one.
 
Assuming the BJ40 shifter hole location is the same as an FJ40, and you had clearance for the 60 series TMS kit, I should have room with my TC being 3.3" forward of the stock TC position.

Time frame was 8/80 and later. 79 and 80 models still had the one piece transfer with the hand brake. the 79 and later had the hand brake handle on the transmission hump but only had a short cable that ran to the transfer case for 79 and 80 models. There is a 8/80 and later 4X series full floater rear axle with the hand brake. Not imported to the US but they are around, I have one.

That is good info, Thanks
Gary
 
80 and later with e brake was only drum brakes correct? I heard the eldarado calipers were for crap. I wish there was an aftermarket caliper with e brake that would work well, like what Wilwood offers for the hotrod market.

I'm also using a later full float axle with drums and built in e brake but would love a disc option.
 
Just remember when you install the engine/gearbox with a disc rotor hand brake the cross member behind rotor can get in the way, which means you either move the cross member or alter the disc hand brake assembly which I did.

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Yes, cut and modified the disc bracket as I did not want to touch the chassis cross member. This is a beach vehicle build so the hand brake is not a real concern, once you stop on the beach vehicle's don't tend to roll away on there own.

With this weekend coming up being a long weekend with Monday being a public holiday I am hopeful that Monday will be test drive day?
 

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