H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`

[Vae Victus]

7-B Continued: Counter Shaft Bearings Removal

Well I had a brainstorm today and tried it. Had a puller from AutoZone tool loaner program. The claws were too big to fit but if I ground them down and inserted them sideways, they fit. I could then rotate them into place and screw them back onto the body of the puller.


AZ Loaner no more


Ground off a bit

After grinding a pair I was able to pull the countershaft bearings right off. It made the claws weaker but to enough to be defeated by these bearings.


Puller ready. Input side bearing


Socket used to turn puller

At first it pushed the output bearing out while pulling from the input side, then the input pulled out.


Pushed the output out a bit first


Then Input started coming out


Free at last

Worked on the Output bearing next.

Output




Bearing in 2 parts


Counter Shaft Output side

Had to strap on the 3rd leg to get the input bearing all the way off the shaft once it left the case.

 

[Vae Victus]

Side Bar: Rebuild Kit Contents




Full contents




Koyo bearings



2 of these


Seal


Seal #2


seal #3



Gaskets



Gaskets



Part Number

I didn't detail the small parts but there is a captive nut, 2 crush washers, and 17 needle bearings.

 

[Vae Victus]

8. Input Shaft Removal


Now that the Counter shaft is out of the way, I can remove the input shaft. I just grabbed and pulled, and it came right off. The needle bearings fell out, and of course, one fell into the case. Along with every other small part possible. I'll get all those out later.




Input shaft coming out.


Needle bearings

Watch out for the synchro ring, it comes out too.


Synchro ring


Input Shaft and Synchro

 

[Vae Victus]

Does anyone have a better description of where to place the gap tool between the synchros and gears for measuring 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear thrust clearance?

The FSM I have is a scan in a PDF that is kind of dark. See below for a screen clip of it.


Measuring the Gaps

The Haynes manual talks about doing the gap measurement AFTER you take the gears off the output shaft. FSM says do it before you remove the Output shaft from the case but just isn't clear where to measure. If I could just see what to measure I could figure it out.

 

[broth9640]

Does this help

 

[Vae Victus]

Does this help

Oh yes, where'd that come from? Thanks - Mud Rules!

 

[broth9640]

Got it outta this manual

 

[Vae Victus]

Got it outta this manual

Yep, I went further on in the manual I was looking at (PDF version) and found that same image - the '80 manual has it much earlier in the process so I just missed it in the '75 manual. Thank you!

 

[Vae Victus]

Dang, stuck again.

I must remove the output rear bearing. Long output shaft is in the way of my short puller, and 1st gear won't allow me to drive it from the inside.

Should I just remove the gears from the shaft then drive the bearing out?


Nope cannot do that. No room at the shaft end. Case is in the way.




Gotta remove this bearing



I don't have a long puller.

Ok mudders - how?

 

[Pin_Head]

The rear output bearing is what convinced me not to fool with these transmissions any more. I tried using a 20 ton press at work with no success. What worked was I stuffed some styrofoam between the main shaft gears and counter shaft so that the teeth wouldn't get F'ed up, turned it over, put a piece of aluminum bar on the end of the main shaft and then hit it hard with a full two arm swing with a 10 pound sledge.

I think it I had to do it again, I would cut the inner race with a carbide or diamond burr in a pneumatic die grinder. It cuts bearing races pretty fast.

 

[Vae Victus]

The rear output bearing is what convinced me not to fool with these transmissions any more. I tried using a 20 ton press at work with no success. What worked was I stuffed some styrofoam between the main shaft gears and counter shaft so that the teeth wouldn't get F'ed up, turned it over, put a piece of aluminum bar on the end of the main shaft and then hit it hard with a full two arm swing with a 10 pound sledge.

I think it I had to do it again, I would cut the inner race with a carbide or diamond burr in a pneumatic die grinder. It cuts bearing races pretty fast.

Well crap PinHead, that's not what I wanted to hear.

Did you take the retaining clip off the input-facing end of the shaft first so that the gears could slide on the shaft?

I see where I could modify my puller by replacing the short straight pieces of metal with longer ones that will allow the puller to reach the end of the shaft.


Replace circled connector pieces with longer ones.




It would need to reach from the puller arm to the end of the shaft to connect to the puller body.

Or - cut it off like you said.

 

[Vae Victus]

10. Transmission Case Cover Disassembly

Drive the steel spring pin out of the shaft for the third-fourth shaft and fork. Drive it in whatever direction it comes out easiest. Use a drive pin that fits the pin pretty well. You don't want to expand the spring pin such that it won't come out so work carefully to get it started. I got one stuck and had to beat it hard with two different drive pins to get it out.



Remove this pin first on the short shaft

Then drive the shaft out thru the case, popping the expansion plug out.



Shaft being driven out

Next, remove the two pins on the middle shaft, called the First-Second shaft


Shift fork pin being removed.

Once both are removed, rotate the shaft until the notch in the middle is visible as shown in the photo by the brass drift pin. It won't be quite that visible at first. Tap the notch with a brass drift and tap it out the same direction as the 3rd-4th shaft (towards the front of the vehicle if it were mounted) and pop the expansion plug. Remove the shaft. Don't lose the small cylindrical interlock pin that seats in the shaft.


Notch for removal


Cylindrical pin for middle shaft

Next remove the remaining shaft - the Reverse shaft. Don't lose the oblong interlock pin.



Remove the Slotted Spring Pins

Pull the shaft out of the backup light switch hole



Backup Light Hole

 

[Pin_Head]

I removed all the gears that I could first. I also left the snap ring on the outer race of the bearing to give me something to push against. Making longer arms sounds like a good idea to try.

 

[John Smith]

Dang, stuck again.

I must remove the output rear bearing. Long output shaft is in the way of my short puller, and 1st gear won't allow me to drive it from the inside.

Should I just remove the gears from the shaft then drive the bearing out?

View attachment 796304
Nope cannot do that. No room at the shaft end. Case is in the way.



View attachment 796305
Gotta remove this bearing


View attachment 796300
I don't have a long puller.

Ok mudders - how?

I see you have progressed to the point you get to deal with the "PITA" bearing. I have had this bearing frozen to the output shaft on all three transmissions I have worked on. Cutting the bearing apart is best way I have found after breaking pullers and getting no where with my press. I do like Pin_Head's take a swing at it with a 10lb. sledge trick. If for no other reason then to vent after spending hours trying to remove that damn bearing. My old writeup may be of some help to you with your project. My transmission barely failed all the FSM clearance tests and still shifts fine to this day. http://mysite.verizon.net/gogokitty..._Install_/marlin_crawler_toybox_install_.html

 

[Vae Victus]

I see you have progressed to the point you get to deal with the "PITA" bearing. I have had this bearing frozen to the output shaft on all three transmissions I have worked on. Cutting the bearing apart is best way I have found after breaking pullers and getting no where with my press. I do like Pin_Head's take a swing at it with a 10lb. sledge trick. If for no other reason then to vent after spending hours trying to remove that damn bearing. My old writeup may be of some help to you with your project. My transmission barely failed all the FSM clearance tests and still shifts fine to this day. http://mysite.verizon.net/gogokitty..._Install_/marlin_crawler_toybox_install_.html

John - fantastic, thank you for the information, and for your writeup link. It will help me get this done, and help me finish what I started here. I'll be sure to reference your thread at the beginning of mine so that others can use it.

Really appreciate it!!!

I knew there were more folks than were letting on that had rebuilt these things.

Scott (VV)

 

[FJ40Jim]

That bearing is the hardest one to deal with.

Use a long-leg puller, and apply heat to the inner race so it will expand and loosen it's press fit on the shaft.

 

[bhmmapping]

Here is a good thread from the 60 section with several homemade sst's:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/469197-h55f-disassembly-home-made-sst.html

 

[Vae Victus]

Sigh, need to tackle that bearing tomorrow! May try the "weld something long to it and beat the crap out of it" method.

 

[Vae Victus]

Here is a good thread from the 60 section with several homemade sst's:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/469197-h55f-disassembly-home-made-sst.html

Yep, very helpful. Thanks!

 

[Vae Victus]

Finally had time to make this tool and get that dad-gum (cursing filter is on) output bearing off.

Bought some 7/16 threaded rod (2 x 12" is what I cut off), 4 nuts and 4 washers. Borrowed the Autozone OEM Puller pictured below.


Puller from Autozone Loan-a-Tool

Ground down the rods to fit in the holes and grab the edges. Also ground down one side on the nut end to fit into the puller head. Go ahead and run the grind down several inches in case you need that distance (I did).


Grind ends


Assemble the Tool


Ends




Requires the screwdrivers to keep the rods in place.

Others fashioned a band around the rods with a captured but and a bolt to keep tension on the rods - pushing inward. I skipped that. KISS.

Other threads show bracing a wrench between the INSIDE of the case and the input shaft so the bearing pulls out. I failed to do that and the shaft indeed pushed in.

At the point I realized I had goofed, I braced the gear on the input side to the case, re-adjusted the puller on the output side so it was tight, gave the input shaft side a single 3# hammer whack and got the bearing moving.


Had to whack this side with a heavy hammer.

Because I had pushed the shaft in, I had to grind the nut ends of the shafts further down so I could shorten the length of the puller.

I was then able to continue to pull the bearing.