GX470 Trans Fluid Drain & Fill Tips/Write-up (1 Viewer)

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I just did a drain and fill on my trans in my 2009 GX470 (120K miles). I could not find a complete write up and found myself hopping around between multiple different sources.

First of all, It is really not that bad and I recommend anyone that is thinking about it to do it!

Tools/Shopping list:
5mm allen (remove the check plug)
14mm Socket (drain plug)
24mm Socket (WS Fill plug, needs to be standard/shallow, not a deep well)
3 foot of drain tube to plug into the cooler (I used a pretty soft 3/8" ID hose a stiff 1/2 should work as well)
5 Liter Plastic beaker with graduation marking (~$18 on amazon) (It would be nice to have two of these. one clean one dirty)
Fluid transfer pump (Highly suggest this: Performance Tool W1156 Transfer Pump ~$12 at autozone or amazon)
14-16 qts of Toyota ATF WS fluid (#00289ATFWS ~$10/qt)
2X Overflow check & Drain plug crush washer (#3517830010)
A cheap tarp to lay down under everything
level


Steps:
Draining the pan:

1. Begin with the car completely cold and check that frame rail is level. Level as necessary, lay tarp down.
2. Remove the fill plug with 24mm socket. It is located at the rear of the trans on the passenger side about halfway up. 2004+ should have a "WS" on the head of the plug (see PDF)
3. Position Plastic beaker under the check plug
4. Remove the check plug with a 5mm allen. Fluid should come out since it is cold. (you want to remove the fill and check to make sure you can get them loose before you drain the pan)
5. Reinstall the check plug finger tight
6. Remove the drain plug with 14mm socket (2-3 qts should come out of the pan)
7. Reinstall the drain plug with 14mm (with new crush washer) torque to 21 ft-lbs.
8. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
9. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out. (2.8 QTS came out dirty, put in 2.8 QTS clean) I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
10. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
11. Have a beer

Draining the rest:
1. Remove the upper line on the transmission cooler (circled in picture attached) and zip tie line up and out of the way. (very little fluid should come out ~ a drop or so)
2. Add your 3 ft drain line to the upper cooler fitting and route it into the empty dirty fluid beaker in front of the car.
3. Get in the car and set the e-brake tight
4. Start a stopwatch on your phone and start the car.
5. Slowly row through all of the gears P to L waiting about 1.5s in each. Turn the car off at 27 seconds. (ideally go P-L-P-L-P in 27s)
6. Go look at the dirty fluid in your plastic beaker. (~1.5Q - 2Q should have been pumped out)
7. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
8. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out ~1.6Q and I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
9. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
10. Repeat this process (steps 2-9) a few times until the fluid coming out is pretty clean. (6+ times).
** you are basically running the car and pumping old fluid out, then refilling to proper level with new fluid**
11. Remove the drain tube on the trans cooler and re-connect the oil cooler line.
12. Have a beer. This is tedious.

Checking the level:
1. At this point your transmission should be overfilled by roughly a half quart.
2. I used my OBD Fusion app on my iphone to measure trans fluid temperature in the pan.
3. Crank the car and the row N-D-N-D-N-D a few times and then leave it in drive while the fluid warms up
4. Per the manual the fluid should be between 97* and 115*
5. While the engine is running (and in proper temp range) shift to park, leave the engine running.
6. Get under the car and remove the check plug with 5mm allen
7. Fluid should run out, go to step 8. If fluid does not run out, go to step 9.
8. When fluid slows to a dribble, reinstall the check plug with a new crush washer. tighten to 15 ft-lbs.

9. Turn off the engine & reinstall the check plug finger tight.
11. Using the fluid pump, pump .5 quart into the fill hole.
12. Repeat steps 1-8 as needed

Final:
1. Clean the o-ring on the fill plug
2. Reinstall the fill plug with 24mm. tighten to 29 ft-lbs.
3. Wipe any fluid drips from pan, check plug, and fill-hole areas
4. Have a beer. Finish clean up.
5. Go drive and appreciate the renewed smoothness. (when sober)

Notes:
I used 13.5 Qts total. It looks like I was actually about a quart low before I started.
If I had pre-planned more, I would have parked it on ramps in the front and then leveled it in the rear with a jack in order to have more room under it. However it needs to be cold to start so I couldn't do this. It is easiest for the initial drain if everything is cold and has been for 6+hours.

1631743674787.png
 

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Last edited:
Great write up!
 
Nice job including the fsm pages, it's not a terrible job just very tedious and specific.

For the sake of time and mess... If you have a competent Lexus or Toyota dealer nearby this is one of the jobs that's nice to farm out to someone else. 😁
 
Good writeup! I used a very similar approach with mine, except that I also dropped the pan, cleaned the sediment and replaced the filter/strainer, and used Valvoline Max Life ATF (about half the cost of Toyota WS). Overall it's not a terrible job; total cost is around $120 using MaxLife ATF.
 
Good writeup! I used a very similar approach with mine, except that I also dropped the pan, cleaned the sediment and replaced the filter/strainer, and used Valvoline Max Life ATF (about half the cost of Toyota WS). Overall it's not a terrible job; total cost is around $120 using MaxLife ATF.

Thanks.

I considered dropping the pan and and replacing the strainer but decided not to. I will likely do that the next time I change the fluid in 50k miles ish. The fluid that came out really was not burnt (just dark and old) but I don't think it has ever been abused at al,l so that also factored into me waiting.
 
I just did a drain and fill on my trans in my 2009 GX470 (120K miles). I could not find a complete write up and found myself hopping around between multiple different sources.

First of all, It is really not that bad and I recommend anyone that is thinking about it to do it!

Tools/Shopping list:
5mm allen (remove the check plug)
14mm Socket (drain plug)
24mm Socket (WS Fill plug, needs to be standard/shallow, not a deep well)
3 foot of drain tube to plug into the cooler (I used a pretty soft 3/8" ID hose a stiff 1/2 should work as well)
5 Liter Plastic beaker with graduation marking (~$18 on amazon) (It would be nice to have two of these. one clean one dirty)
Fluid transfer pump (Highly suggest this: Performance Tool W1156 Transfer Pump ~$12 at autozone or amazon)
14-16 qts of Toyota ATF WS fluid (#00289ATFWS ~$10/qt)
2X Overflow check & Drain plug crush washer (#3517830010)
A cheap tarp to lay down under everything
level


Steps:
Draining the pan:

1. Begin with the car completely cold and check that frame rail is level. Level as necessary, lay tarp down.
2. Remove the fill plug with 24mm socket. It is located at the rear of the trans on the passenger side about halfway up. 2004+ should have a "WS" on the head of the plug (see PDF)
3. Position Plastic beaker under the check plug
4. Remove the check plug with a 5mm allen. Fluid should come out since it is cold. (you want to remove the fill and check to make sure you can get them loose before you drain the pan)
5. Reinstall the check plug finger tight
6. Remove the drain plug with 14mm socket (2-3 qts should come out of the pan)
7. Reinstall the drain plug with 14mm (with new crush washer) torque to 21 ft-lbs.
8. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
9. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out. (2.8 QTS came out dirty, put in 2.8 QTS clean) I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
10. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
11. Have a beer

Draining the rest:
1. Remove the upper line on the transmission cooler (circled in picture attached) and zip tie line up and out of the way. (very little fluid should come out ~ a drop or so)
2. Add your 3 ft drain line to the upper cooler fitting and route it into the empty dirty fluid beaker in front of the car.
3. Get in the car and set the e-brake tight
4. Start a stopwatch on your phone and start the car.
5. Slowly row through all of the gears P to L waiting about 1.5s in each. Turn the car off at 27 seconds. (ideally go P-L-P-L-P in 27s)
6. Go look at the dirty fluid in your plastic beaker. (~1.5Q - 2Q should have been pumped out)
7. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
8. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out ~1.6Q and I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
9. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
10. Repeat this process a few times until the fluid coming out is pretty clean. (6+ times).
** you are basically running the car and pumping old fluid out, then refilling to proper level with new fluid**
11. Remove the drain tube on the trans cooler and re-connect the oil cooler line.
12. Have a beer. This is tedious.

Checking the level:
1. At this point your transmission should be overfilled by roughly a half quart.
2. I used my OBD Fusion app on my iphone to measure trans fluid temperature in the pan.
3. Crank the car and the row N-D-N-D-N-D a few times and then leave it in drive while the fluid warms up
4. Per the manual the fluid should be between 97* and 115*
5. While the engine is running (and in proper temp range) shift to park, leave the engine running.
6. Get under the car and remove the check plug with 5mm allen
7. Fluid should run out, go to step 8. If fluid does not run out, go to step 9.
8. When fluid slows to a dribble, reinstall the check plug with a new crush washer. tighten to 15 ft-lbs.

9. Turn off the engine & reinstall the check plug finger tight.
11. Using the fluid pump, pump .5 quart into the fill hole.
12. Repeat steps 1-8 as needed

Final:
1. Clean the o-ring on the fill plug
2. Reinstall the fill plug with 24mm. tighten to 29 ft-lbs.
3. Wipe any fluid drips from pan, check plug, and fill-hole areas
4. Have a beer. Finish clean up.
5. Go drive and appreciate the renewed smoothness. (when sober)

Notes:
I used 13.5 Qts total. It looks like I was actually about a quart low before I started.
If I had pre-planned more, I would have parked it on ramps in the front and then leveled it in the rear with a jack in order to have more room under it. However it needs to be cold to start so I couldn't do this. It is easiest for the initial drain if everything is cold and has been for 6+hours.

View attachment 2787252
So easy to understand thanks I’ll do this. lexus dealer belllexus on ebay sells it for 8$ each quarts I’ll get 16 and clean it properly already did one refill. It’s so smooth now but it was just 4.5 quarts. U’ write up is better than any tutorial I’ve seen.
 
I just did a drain and fill on my trans in my 2009 GX470 (120K miles). I could not find a complete write up and found myself hopping around between multiple different sources.

First of all, It is really not that bad and I recommend anyone that is thinking about it to do it!

Tools/Shopping list:
5mm allen (remove the check plug)
14mm Socket (drain plug)
24mm Socket (WS Fill plug, needs to be standard/shallow, not a deep well)
3 foot of drain tube to plug into the cooler (I used a pretty soft 3/8" ID hose a stiff 1/2 should work as well)
5 Liter Plastic beaker with graduation marking (~$18 on amazon) (It would be nice to have two of these. one clean one dirty)
Fluid transfer pump (Highly suggest this: Performance Tool W1156 Transfer Pump ~$12 at autozone or amazon)
14-16 qts of Toyota ATF WS fluid (#00289ATFWS ~$10/qt)
2X Overflow check & Drain plug crush washer (#3517830010)
A cheap tarp to lay down under everything
level


Steps:
Draining the pan:

1. Begin with the car completely cold and check that frame rail is level. Level as necessary, lay tarp down.
2. Remove the fill plug with 24mm socket. It is located at the rear of the trans on the passenger side about halfway up. 2004+ should have a "WS" on the head of the plug (see PDF)
3. Position Plastic beaker under the check plug
4. Remove the check plug with a 5mm allen. Fluid should come out since it is cold. (you want to remove the fill and check to make sure you can get them loose before you drain the pan)
5. Reinstall the check plug finger tight
6. Remove the drain plug with 14mm socket (2-3 qts should come out of the pan)
7. Reinstall the drain plug with 14mm (with new crush washer) torque to 21 ft-lbs.
8. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
9. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out. (2.8 QTS came out dirty, put in 2.8 QTS clean) I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
10. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
11. Have a beer

Draining the rest:
1. Remove the upper line on the transmission cooler (circled in picture attached) and zip tie line up and out of the way. (very little fluid should come out ~ a drop or so)
2. Add your 3 ft drain line to the upper cooler fitting and route it into the empty dirty fluid beaker in front of the car.
3. Get in the car and set the e-brake tight
4. Start a stopwatch on your phone and start the car.
5. Slowly row through all of the gears P to L waiting about 1.5s in each. Turn the car off at 27 seconds. (ideally go P-L-P-L-P in 27s)
6. Go look at the dirty fluid in your plastic beaker. (~1.5Q - 2Q should have been pumped out)
7. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
8. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out ~1.6Q and I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
9. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
10. Repeat this process (steps 2-9) a few times until the fluid coming out is pretty clean. (6+ times).
** you are basically running the car and pumping old fluid out, then refilling to proper level with new fluid**
11. Remove the drain tube on the trans cooler and re-connect the oil cooler line.
12. Have a beer. This is tedious.

Checking the level:
1. At this point your transmission should be overfilled by roughly a half quart.
2. I used my OBD Fusion app on my iphone to measure trans fluid temperature in the pan.
3. Crank the car and the row N-D-N-D-N-D a few times and then leave it in drive while the fluid warms up
4. Per the manual the fluid should be between 97* and 115*
5. While the engine is running (and in proper temp range) shift to park, leave the engine running.
6. Get under the car and remove the check plug with 5mm allen
7. Fluid should run out, go to step 8. If fluid does not run out, go to step 9.
8. When fluid slows to a dribble, reinstall the check plug with a new crush washer. tighten to 15 ft-lbs.

9. Turn off the engine & reinstall the check plug finger tight.
11. Using the fluid pump, pump .5 quart into the fill hole.
12. Repeat steps 1-8 as needed

Final:
1. Clean the o-ring on the fill plug
2. Reinstall the fill plug with 24mm. tighten to 29 ft-lbs.
3. Wipe any fluid drips from pan, check plug, and fill-hole areas
4. Have a beer. Finish clean up.
5. Go drive and appreciate the renewed smoothness. (when sober)

Notes:
I used 13.5 Qts total. It looks like I was actually about a quart low before I started.
If I had pre-planned more, I would have parked it on ramps in the front and then leveled it in the rear with a jack in order to have more room under it. However it needs to be cold to start so I couldn't do this. It is easiest for the initial drain if everything is cold and has been for 6+hours.

View attachment 2787252
I just did a drain and fill on my trans in my 2009 GX470 (120K miles). I could not find a complete write up and found myself hopping around between multiple different sources.

First of all, It is really not that bad and I recommend anyone that is thinking about it to do it!

Tools/Shopping list:
5mm allen (remove the check plug)
14mm Socket (drain plug)
24mm Socket (WS Fill plug, needs to be standard/shallow, not a deep well)
3 foot of drain tube to plug into the cooler (I used a pretty soft 3/8" ID hose a stiff 1/2 should work as well)
5 Liter Plastic beaker with graduation marking (~$18 on amazon) (It would be nice to have two of these. one clean one dirty)
Fluid transfer pump (Highly suggest this: Performance Tool W1156 Transfer Pump ~$12 at autozone or amazon)
14-16 qts of Toyota ATF WS fluid (#00289ATFWS ~$10/qt)
2X Overflow check & Drain plug crush washer (#3517830010)
A cheap tarp to lay down under everything
level


Steps:
Draining the pan:

1. Begin with the car completely cold and check that frame rail is level. Level as necessary, lay tarp down.
2. Remove the fill plug with 24mm socket. It is located at the rear of the trans on the passenger side about halfway up. 2004+ should have a "WS" on the head of the plug (see PDF)
3. Position Plastic beaker under the check plug
4. Remove the check plug with a 5mm allen. Fluid should come out since it is cold. (you want to remove the fill and check to make sure you can get them loose before you drain the pan)
5. Reinstall the check plug finger tight
6. Remove the drain plug with 14mm socket (2-3 qts should come out of the pan)
7. Reinstall the drain plug with 14mm (with new crush washer) torque to 21 ft-lbs.
8. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
9. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out. (2.8 QTS came out dirty, put in 2.8 QTS clean) I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
10. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
11. Have a beer

Draining the rest:
1. Remove the upper line on the transmission cooler (circled in picture attached) and zip tie line up and out of the way. (very little fluid should come out ~ a drop or so)
2. Add your 3 ft drain line to the upper cooler fitting and route it into the empty dirty fluid beaker in front of the car.
3. Get in the car and set the e-brake tight
4. Start a stopwatch on your phone and start the car.
5. Slowly row through all of the gears P to L waiting about 1.5s in each. Turn the car off at 27 seconds. (ideally go P-L-P-L-P in 27s)
6. Go look at the dirty fluid in your plastic beaker. (~1.5Q - 2Q should have been pumped out)
7. Measure how much fluid came out of the transmission & empty your dirty plastic beaker.
8. Grab clean plastic beaker and fill it to the level that came out ~1.6Q and I usually added ~.1QT more than came out each time.
9. Using fluid pump, pump the clean fluid into the fill hole.
10. Repeat this process (steps 2-9) a few times until the fluid coming out is pretty clean. (6+ times).
** you are basically running the car and pumping old fluid out, then refilling to proper level with new fluid**
11. Remove the drain tube on the trans cooler and re-connect the oil cooler line.
12. Have a beer. This is tedious.

Checking the level:
1. At this point your transmission should be overfilled by roughly a half quart.
2. I used my OBD Fusion app on my iphone to measure trans fluid temperature in the pan.
3. Crank the car and the row N-D-N-D-N-D a few times and then leave it in drive while the fluid warms up
4. Per the manual the fluid should be between 97* and 115*
5. While the engine is running (and in proper temp range) shift to park, leave the engine running.
6. Get under the car and remove the check plug with 5mm allen
7. Fluid should run out, go to step 8. If fluid does not run out, go to step 9.
8. When fluid slows to a dribble, reinstall the check plug with a new crush washer. tighten to 15 ft-lbs.

9. Turn off the engine & reinstall the check plug finger tight.
11. Using the fluid pump, pump .5 quart into the fill hole.
12. Repeat steps 1-8 as needed

Final:
1. Clean the o-ring on the fill plug
2. Reinstall the fill plug with 24mm. tighten to 29 ft-lbs.
3. Wipe any fluid drips from pan, check plug, and fill-hole areas
4. Have a beer. Finish clean up.
5. Go drive and appreciate the renewed smoothness. (when sober)

Notes:
I used 13.5 Qts total. It looks like I was actually about a quart low before I started.
If I had pre-planned more, I would have parked it on ramps in the front and then leveled it in the rear with a jack in order to have more room under it. However it needs to be cold to start so I couldn't do this. It is easiest for the initial drain if everything is cold and has been for 6+hours.

View attachment 2787252
Super helpful all around. Thank you.
 
Thanks to Krazykevin and Binaryaudax for the helpful How-tos. I'm trying to find part numbers for the fill, check, and drain bolts and gaskets. But or the life of me I can't find the fill bolt and fill bolt gasket part numbers... can anyone help?

The P/N's I have so far are:
Transmission - strainer/filter (inside pan) 35330-60050
Transmission - strain/filter o-ring 90301-31014
Transmission - pan gasket 35168-60010
Transmission - check plug 90341-10021
Transmission - check gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - refill plug ???
Transmission - refill gasket ???
Transmission - drain plug 90341-10011
Transmission - drain gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - Oil 00289-ATFWS
 
You shouldn't really need to replace any of the plugs or washers, perhaps outside of the 2 crush washers on the overflow tube and drain plug on the pan (and frankly, those are metal so you can likely re-use them multiple times). I've removed my refill plug three times (fluid replacement, fluid top-off after installing a bigger cooler, and fluid top-off after installing a Nomad valve body) and have not replaced the gasket on it (I think it has an O-ring), and have not noticed any leaks either. I used basic Amazon crusher washers for the drain plug and overflow tube on my GX - those were also replaced once at the fluid replacement and have been re-used for the other two times I've opened them.

FYI you can get a kit at your local auto parts store that includes the strainer/filter, O-ring, and an aftermarket gasket for around $30.
 
Thanks to Krazykevin and Binaryaudax for the helpful How-tos. I'm trying to find part numbers for the fill, check, and drain bolts and gaskets. But or the life of me I can't find the fill bolt and fill bolt gasket part numbers... can anyone help?

The P/N's I have so far are:
Transmission - strainer/filter (inside pan) 35330-60050
Transmission - strain/filter o-ring 90301-31014
Transmission - pan gasket 35168-60010
Transmission - check plug 90341-10021
Transmission - check gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - refill plug ???
Transmission - refill gasket ???
Transmission - drain plug 90341-10011
Transmission - drain gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - Oil 00289-ATFWS

I found the missing P/Ns:
Transmission - strainer/filter (inside pan) 35330-60050
Transmission - strain/filter o-ring 90301-31014
Transmission - pan gasket 35168-60010
Transmission - check plug 90341-10021
Transmission - check gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - refill plug 90341-18059
Transmission - refill gasket 90301-15004
Transmission - drain plug 90341-10011
Transmission - drain gasket 35178-30010
Transmission - Oil 00289-ATFWS
 
As most here already know, Aisin is the manufacturer of the GX470 transmission. Rock Auto currently carries Aisin WS ATF for $7.37 per quart plus shipping. As I recall from a few months ago, this added another $10-12 for an order of 14 quarts. Thanks for this write up 👍👍
 
Would it make sense when checking the fluid level to remove the check plug before it gets to the correct temp. Then when it does, just go under and tighten it up? Seems more efficient and precise.
 
You certainly could do that. My preference is to over-fill these by about 1Q so it pours our of the check plug upon first opening. The last couple times I've somehow managed to under-fill and have had to pump trans fluid in through the fill plug at the back of the transmission (with the vehicle running), which is a royal pain.
 

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