GX470 non-Mark Levinson sound specs (2 Viewers)

[Kwikvette]

Done quite a bit of searching on this subject, and I cannot find any specifics as far as the non-Mark Levinson system goes.

What I've gathered is that it uses 9 speakers total.

What I've also gathered is that the subwoofer enclosure is different than that of the other sound system, and is made by Pioneer.

Unfortunately, of the many videos (and diagrams even) they all point to the ML system.

Just looking for maybe a schematic (wiring) and specs not to mention speaker load (are they 4ohm or 8ohm).

Really, I looked everywhere and it seems I'm the only person with a non ML and non Nav setup

 

[Jlemmond]

Im also non nav and non ML and from what i understand everything is 4-ohm. Speaker replacements are on my short list

 

[Kwikvette]

Im also non nav and non ML and from what i understand everything is 4-ohm. Speaker replacements are on my short list

Every time I'd search, I'd find some info only to realize I was in another 100 series thread.

Then the few that pop up on clublexus deviate to talking about the ES series sedans.

Thanks for the headsup on the 4ohm thing throughout. I could just start taking stuff apart but with this heat I didn't want to do the job two or three times.

 

[tlin]

I can confirm the non-ML GX speakers are 4-ohm (all the drivers I pulled out had "4-ohm" stamped on the magnets). I've replaced the front and rear door speakers and the subwoofer but did NOT replace the front tweeters and small mid components as those seemed fine (to my ears).

Front door 6x9 "woofers" replaced w/ these and they're GREAT. I originally thought them being 2-way designs would produce too much high pitch overall given the original tweeter and mid components of the doors were still in use but the setup just sounds very balanced with a healthy amount of unexpected low-end. I had to do quite a lot of work to leverage the existing 6x9 plastic housings to get the new Alpines to work but got it done. This was NOT plug-n-play given how much work had to be done with the plastic adapters, FYI.

Rear door mid-woofers and subwoofer replaced with speakers from SKAR Audio. I don't recall the exact models I went with and didn't want to link the wrong product, FYI. In the end, I don't think I needed to replace my subwoofer but I'd ordered one so just went ahead and did it anyway. Same as with the front Alpines but I had to do a lot of trimming/dremmeling of the plastic subwoofer enclosure to get the SKAR subwoofer I bought to fit. Not easy/fun but got it to work.

My setup sounds fantastic (IMHO) - no rattles and a ton of great, clean, balanced sound that hasn't disappointed at all for any genre. Last, I went with this inexpensive bluetooth connector for my audio feeds from my phone and couldn't be happier. That thing syncs in 0.5 seconds and is 100X better than the bluetooth in my BMW.

Good luck!

 

[Kwikvette]

@tlin thank you so much for that information.

I was specifically looking into replacing the front door woofers as well as the subwoofer, and now that you've confirmed they're 4ohm I can go ahead and order ahead.

If you did it again, would you opt with 6 3/4" up front with adapters or 6" x 9" again?

Also did you use a DVC 2ohm 6 1/2" sub?

 

[tlin]

@tlin thank you so much for that information.

I was specifically looking into replacing the front door woofers as well as the subwoofer, and now that you've confirmed they're 4ohm I can go ahead and order ahead.

If you did it again, would you opt with 6 3/4" up front with adapters or 6" x 9" again?

Also did you use a DVC 2ohm 6 1/2" sub?

I forgot I ordered everything thru Amazon so it was easier to find the SKAR speakers I used than I thought. These are the exact speakers I went with (front 6x9's linked above):

• Rear Door Speakers
• Subwoofer

If I did it over again, I would have bought adapters that fit the 6x9's I bought for the fronts instead of modifying the OEM speaker housings. It wasn't terrible but it was a lot more work than I thought it was going to be. Turned out fine but I literally used my bandsaw to get it done.

Subwoofer - no other way than to dremel/cut the OEM sub-enclosure to accommodate the larger frame of the new SKAR subwoofer. It was also a pretty time-consuming, patience-testing job but again, got it done. The thing to pay attention to here is not to puncture that enclosure and create a bunch of air leaks diminishing the output of the system (Gorilla duct tape and some foam were also used for a sealed, finished product).

I DID originally try going with new foam for the mid-woofers (rear doors) from Simply Speakers. It was a shameful affair on my part - I did such a terrible job I just started ordering speakers and the rest is history. All said, I'm a happy camper and am glad it's done.

 

[Kwikvette]

I forgot I ordered everything thru Amazon so it was easier to find the SKAR speakers I used than I thought. These are the exact speakers I went with (front 6x9's linked above):

• Rear Door Speakers
• Subwoofer

If I did it over again, I would have bought adapters that fit the 6x9's I bought for the fronts instead of modifying the OEM speaker housings. It wasn't terrible but it was a lot more work than I thought it was going to be. Turned out fine but I literally used my bandsaw to get it done.

Subwoofer - no other way than to dremel/cut the OEM sub-enclosure to accommodate the larger frame of the new SKAR subwoofer. It was also a pretty time-consuming, patience-testing job but again, got it done. The thing to pay attention to here is not to puncture that enclosure and create a bunch of air leaks diminishing the output of the system (Gorilla duct tape and some foam were also used for a sealed, finished product).

I DID originally try going with new foam for the mid-woofers (rear doors) from Simply Speakers. It was a shameful affair on my part - I did such a terrible job I just started ordering speakers and the rest is history. All said, I'm a happy camper and am glad it's done.

No worries, got tons of tools at home to modify the enclosures as needed.

Just ask all these questions because if there's anything I hate doing, it's removing interior panels over and over and over again.

Pulling things once, fine you might break a clip...you might not. Doing it again, something else gets loose and doing so again something else fails.

My speakers are fine, every single one of them, but I figured I'd ask about the fronts for when I tackle mine at some later point (as a small upgrade).

Only real question is on that subwoofer, you wired up to 8ohm or down to 2ohm? A dual 4ohm would need to be bridged.

I may opt to buying the dual 2ohm to wire it up for 4ohm to the factory amp.

And thanks for the headsup on the enclosure!

 

[tlin]

No worries, got tons of tools at home to modify the enclosures as needed.

Just ask all these questions because if there's anything I hate doing, it's removing interior panels over and over and over again.

Pulling things once, fine you might break a clip...you might not. Doing it again, something else gets loose and doing so again something else fails.

My speakers are fine, every single one of them, but I figured I'd ask about the fronts for when I tackle mine at some later point (as a small upgrade).

Only real question is on that subwoofer, you wired up to 8ohm or down to 2ohm? A dual 4ohm would need to be bridged.

I may opt to buying the dual 2ohm to wire it up for 4ohm to the factory amp.

And thanks for the headsup on the enclosure!

I hear ya....I need to replace the LED reverse lights I put in a while back because they aren't the right throw-type and I'm dreading taking that panel off again. I already broke the door handle clips...

The factory sub is bi-wired so I just ran the existing dual leads over to the dual terminals on the new sub linked above. Easy-Peesy....

The leads aren't very long and I didn't have larger spades to accommodate the new sub's terminals so I soldered the wiring, FYI.

Edit - there's also some structural plastic ribs inside the sub's enclosure. The new SKAR subwoofer is deeper than the factory one so those ribs had to be removed with pliers in order to get a flush fit (just nipped it all out and that went really well). My initial re-install of the subwoofer revealed quite a bit of rattling - took the entire sub enclosure apart and had to meticulously vacuum/clean the interior of that enclosure out to get ALL of the loose plastic pieces removed.

No exaggerating here, this entire project took me hours to complete and I did it in piecemeal fashion (doors first on a solo trip to my cabin last year, subwoofer a few weeks later). It's not hard, it's just a ton of tiny steps to get the job done (rear doors were plug-n-play-ish aside from also soldering those, all others were definitely NOT plug-n-play). Not trying to dissuade you from doing this but to your earlier question.......if I had to do it all over again, I would NOT have replaced my subwoofer. The front 6x9's and the rear door mid-woofers were all blown (foam surrounds completely shot) but by the time I got to the subwoofer, that driver was 100% intact and I can't honestly say I notice any difference with the sub replacement. The front 6x9's produce a great amount of balanced output including low-end bass so I don't think the subwoofer netted me anything other than being able to share that tale with you here.

Enough chit-chat - go buy some speakers and report back once you're done... . Good luck!

 

[tlin]

Stumbled across these - pure happenstance but.....looks like I took pics when I did my subwoofer retrofit so here they are:

 

[tlin]

Sorry for the giant pics....last one is the finished product.

You can see in the previous post that the sub driver was in perfect shape. Again, looking back, I would NOT recommend replacing the subwoofer unless you know yours is shot and even then, it's probably worth being patient and just replacing the foam from with a kit from Simply Speakers for this particular piece. I honestly can't tell you this new one sounds any better than the old one did and this was a lot of work.