GX460 Transmission fluid cooler (1 Viewer)

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Just FYI, but a cooler bigger than a Hayden 678/698 or one that has a fan is probably overkill. The filter/thermostat piece is pretty cool, but appears to be around $310 online.

Here is what I came up with for a filter. The Magnefine filters are a bit more expensive at around $25 each but include a magnet and are designed specifically for trans/power steering fluid.
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I don't think you'd ever have to worry about transmission temps again with a setup like this.
I think you could say the same about a $50 Hayden : )

Seems like a cool setup but more complicated. Also, to remove the factory cooler all together you’d have to put a larger cooler in which could make a winch or bumper install more difficult.

I just want to add a little more capability to Toyota reliability for my use case, rather than try to completely replace it. Cool approach though. This would work well on a custom built rock crawler.
 
A better cooling system upgrade would be an aluminum radiator, IMO. That will benefit the engine and the trans more than just adding the trans cooler, since the engine is the main source of heat.
 
So I've read a bit into the trans fluid temp thing. As long as the transmission is locking the torque converter then it's likely warm enough. At 160F it's locking the torque converter during cruising so I'll keep the thermostat pinned.
On my 22 and 23, both will get TC lockup once the transmission hits 100deg. Monitoring using an OBD Link dashboard
 
Okay. Time to get a cooler.

I got both 678 and 698 to take a look. Which one do you guys think I should use? I live in AZ and rarely go into the snow. Occasionally driving in cold climates but not often. Do I really need the bypass? Isn’t that jsut to warm it up faster? If I have a bypass cooler is there any need to pin the thermostat open?

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I have the 698 with the temp bypass and my trans thermostat pinned. It does very well, even on cold days. Ambient can be in the 30's and within 15-20 min the transmission is up to and maintains 130ish degrees.
 
I'm in South Florida but I installed a 678 runs at 160s cruising down the highway 70F outside.

Thermostat line is bypass flow, its typically not even open until the thermostat opens. Pinning it just keeps fluid cycling. This can be beneficial especially if you have an external cooler or inline filter which I do in my GX.

Fresh fluid is best doesn't matter the mileage, what gets you into trouble is sending crap through the valve body.
I'm getting the same temps with the Hayden 698 bypass. 160-168 on the interstate with an ambient temp of around 85+. HUGE improvement over the OEM cooler that I had. Towing my utility trailer, I see a very steady 175deg pan temp in the city. It will spike to 185ish but quickly cools back down to the 170s.
 
When you guys talk about monitoring teams, are you talking about pan temps or TC? I'm wondering if I was overthinking my temps a bit. Now that I'm monitoring both, I see the TC temp fluctuates wildly and goes 10-20° above pan temps during acceleration. I realized I've been monitoring the torque converter, so the 240° I saw in towing on hills was probably closer to 220° pan temperature.

Which one is the one we should pay attention to?
 
Pan temp is the one. It's represents an "average" temp as you have fluid coming out of the transmission itself and then going back into the cooler.
 
I'm getting the same temps with the Hayden 698 bypass. 160-168 on the interstate with an ambient temp of around 85+. HUGE improvement over the OEM cooler that I had. Towing my utility trailer, I see a very steady 175deg pan temp in the city. It will spike to 185ish but quickly cools back down to the 170s.
Pan temp? The thermostat doesn't even open until 170° and the Hayden bypass opens at 180°. I'm wondering if that low is a good thing. Hayden makes their bypass 180 becuase that's the ideal temp for gas mileage and reduced wear according to their documentation.
 
Pan temp? The thermostat doesn't even open until 170° and the Hayden bypass opens at 180°. I'm wondering if that low is a good thing. Hayden makes their bypass 180 becuase that's the ideal temp for gas mileage and reduced wear according to their documentation.
In my humble opinion, 150-180 is optimal.
 
When you guys talk about monitoring teams, are you talking about pan temps or TC? I'm wondering if I was overthinking my temps a bit. Now that I'm monitoring both, I see the TC temp fluctuates wildly and goes 10-20° above pan temps during acceleration. I realized I've been monitoring the torque converter, so the 240° I saw in towing on hills was probably closer to 220° pan temperature.

Which one is the one we should pay attention to?

Pan is the one as said. But keep watching them. The coolers are air cooled and when you are in stop and go traffic or sitting in road construction while pulling they will rise. Sometimes until sump reaches TC temps then it is not going down until you get moving again. Once they are equal at the high end it can take awhile for the sump temps to go down.

Has happened to me a couple of times (without external cooler) and can't help think a thermostatically controlled fan would go a long ways to helping with the temps.
 
Pan temp? The thermostat doesn't even open until 170° and the Hayden bypass opens at 180°. I'm wondering if that low is a good thing. Hayden makes their bypass 180 becuase that's the ideal temp for gas mileage and reduced wear according to their documentation.
Hayden claims 180 degrees, I believe it may be much lower.

The oem thermostst fully opens around 220 deg

A cool transmission is a happy transmission.
 
Hayden claims 180 degrees, I believe it may be much lower.
I actually checked this after install. Mine opens at just about exactly 180°. On start up all the lines going to the cooler are cold. When I 170, the input line of the cooler got warm immediately. Over the next few minutes output line warmed up as well. When I hit 180, the cooler itself got warm. Before that, only the lines in the top row of the cooler were warm. That tells me the factory thermostat opens at 170, pretty much fully. Then at 180 the bypass on the external cooler opens up. So I think the number is that the manufacturers give her pretty accurate. I was monitoring pan temps with OBD Fusion.
 
Happy to report that I got a transmission flush at 200 K and have driven 200 miles with no issues. I really think the whole drain fill thing is over blown. I plan on flushing it until it goes out. It’s a much more effective way to change the fluid since no mixing occurs with old fluid. A flush is 300 bucks at my mechanic which sounds a little pricey, until you add up the cost of 15 quarts of Toyota ATF. He’s charging me about 100 bucks labor which saves me having to open and refill the transmission and drive 10 miles three times in a row, but still have old crap floating around in there because each time you’re mixing old fluid with new fluid.
 
Happy to report that I got a transmission flush at 200 K and have driven 200 miles with no issues. I really think the whole drain fill thing is over blown. I plan on flushing it until it goes out. It’s a much more effective way to change the fluid since no mixing occurs with old fluid. A flush is 300 bucks at my mechanic which sounds a little pricey, until you add up the cost of 15 quarts of Toyota ATF. He’s charging me about 100 bucks labor which saves me having to open and refill the transmission and drive 10 miles three times in a row, but still have old crap floating around in there because each time you’re mixing old fluid with new fluid.
Agreed, full fluid exchange is the way to go due to being only nominally more labor. A drain-and-fill is like putting on a pair of dirty undies after getting out of the shower.

FYI - i use Valvoline MaxLife, which is only around $22 a gallon. IMO it's a better fluid than Toyota WS as it's a legit full-synthetic.
 
I actually checked this after install. Mine opens at just about exactly 180°. On start up all the lines going to the cooler are cold. When I 170, the input line of the cooler got warm immediately. Over the next few minutes output line warmed up as well. When I hit 180, the cooler itself got warm. Before that, only the lines in the top row of the cooler were warm. That tells me the factory thermostat opens at 170, pretty much fully. Then at 180 the bypass on the external cooler opens up. So I think the number is that the manufacturers give her pretty accurate. I was monitoring pan temps with OBD Fusion.
Interesting.

I have my thermostat pinned and the Hayden 698 installed. Ambient temperatures are mid 70's-80's and after a drive on the interstate, the transmission pan temperature was at a steady 150-158degrees. This same drive with the OEM cooler and thermostat pinned, the transmission pen temperature was consistently between 185-195.

I am using OBDLink to monitor.

 
How long of a drive? Mine takes a full 20-25m to go from cold (az cold, not actual cold) to 180. Are you sure you hot the 698 and not 678? Maybe your bypass is stuck open? The stated temp is 180 on the hayden so if yours never hits that, Im not sure what you’ve got going on.

Have you guys considered that too cold is bad too? 160 sounds great, but I have to think Toyota put a thermostat and warmer in for a reason. Cold fluid is higher friction and viscosity. I would think there is a very specific reason Toyota went through all the trouble of bypassing their own cooler at a decent engineering complexity cost.
 
How long of a drive? Mine takes a full 20-25m to go from cold (az cold, not actual cold) to 180. Are you sure you hot the 698 and not 678? Maybe your bypass is stuck open? The stated temp is 180 on the hayden so if yours never hits that, Im not sure what you’ve got going on.

Have you guys considered that too cold is bad too? 160 sounds great, but I have to think Toyota put a thermostat and warmer in for a reason. Cold fluid is higher friction and viscosity. I would think there is a very specific reason Toyota went through all the trouble of bypassing their own cooler at a decent engineering complexity cost.

AZ is probably cooler than South Florida......especially the winter months.

That drive was approximately 15 minutes city and roughly 45 minutes on the interstate.

My RockAuto receipt and the box the unit came in states "Hayden 698" It was sealed so I can only assume it is indeed a 698.

As far as temperatures go, I am very comfortable with a 150-175ish temperature. Heat is a killer with transmissions. After I installed my lift and just the standard cooler through the radiator and the transmission NOT pinned, I was getting cruising temperatures at 220 degrees during the peak of the summer - 95+ degrees and 80%-95% humidity.

The addition of the OEM cooler dropped the temperature to 190-195 with the transmission thermostat pinned. With the transmission thermostat unpinned I was back at 195-210.

There are a LOT of GX transmissions that are or have been failing due to the lack of fluid changes and/or high temperatures. Check out the Facebook Groups, it seems at least once per week there is another failure. Does that mean it is going to happen to all of them? Who knows.

I'm more comfortable with a lower temperature. Especially since WS fluid is not synthetic.
 
How long of a drive? Mine takes a full 20-25m to go from cold (az cold, not actual cold) to 180. Are you sure you hot the 698 and not 678? Maybe your bypass is stuck open? The stated temp is 180 on the hayden so if yours never hits that, Im not sure what you’ve got going on.

Have you guys considered that too cold is bad too? 160 sounds great, but I have to think Toyota put a thermostat and warmer in for a reason. Cold fluid is higher friction and viscosity. I would think there is a very specific reason Toyota went through all the trouble of bypassing their own cooler at a decent engineering complexity cost.

20 years as a Naval Propulsion Engineer including Nuclear Power. We didn't even unlock the main engine throttles until the lubricating oil in the reduction gears hit 120°. So yes I have considered that too cold is bad too. Last week it was twenty below zero here, yes Fahrenheit, and today it is supposed to hit 40° above. I am taking off work this afternoon to take advantage of the heat wave and shoot 5 stand down in Wi. with some retired friends.

When it is below zero I use the remote start to warm the vehicle up first including the ATF. It will only run for 10 minutes before it shuts off but will run another 10 minutes after another restart but will not do it again, 20 minutes is the max runtime. And is usually enough. Many cities have laws against idling even in the cold unless it is below a certain temperature and even then have time limits. Which is why Toyota has the timer on the runtimes for remote start. It was SOP to idle a vehicle in the cold before tree huggers started writing laws, just saying.

But the real reason for the transmission warmer is CAFE (Corporate average fuel economy) which is US government vehicle mileage standards that are meant to punish car manufactures that don't increase fuel economy. They have been around since the 70's and every year get more punishing and cost the auto makers more money. They pay millions of dollars a year in fines and the projected fines are going up. Right now it works out to $15 for each .1 mpg below the government standard set by politicians, not engineers. Multiply that by the difference in total mpg missed then multiply that by every vehicle they make. It is a lot of money, millions of dollars in fines every year. And one of the reasons new vehicles are going up in price so much.

The ASE has shown that heating ATF can increase mpg by up to 1%. That is a lot of money that they don't have to pay in fines. And that is why there is a transmission heater in the GX.

Once it warms up for the start of 6 weeks of piss poor sledding here I will pin the Tstat open on the heater. Trick is to time the unpin before the cold comes back. And why I went with a 698 instead of a 678. Remote start warm up with idling increases sump temps and is the only time pan temp will be higher than converter temp. 10 minute idle at 15° above zero.

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It will still take it ~15 minutes driving to get up to 160° and I am happy with 160°-175° and wish it lived there all year personally.
 

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