GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (7 Viewers)

[Hiluxforever]

Yep. Had the LT-E. I expect those are 2024 production.

They were an E load range 285 70r17 only weighed about 50 lbs and rode very well for any LT tire. Only every let me down in Wyoming winter conditions. Had to get rid of them due to a screw in the shoulder. They had previously had 3 repairs from trail debris.

I have had great luck with Bridgestones for trucks, especially with inclement on road performance. Used to run them on my 5 lug 2wd trucks as well.

 

[rav8]

I purchased two different sets of tires that were out of production last year. Out of Inventory is another matter. If the seller has them you may be able to negotiate a deal. I did well on my last order.

 

[Wildcat Walker]

Heavy.

 

[rav8]

Heavy.

View attachment 3923173

Weight Distribution would be recommended here. It transfers the weight to be shared by front and rear axles on a body on frame vehicle. I use an Andersen setup. you can swap it between trailers in about 20 minutes.

 

[snowGX460]

I tried to install my Magnaflow exhaust today and ran into a snag. This picture is of the flange that connects the over-axle pipe to the resonator (or mid body muffler). I think I was the one that rounded the nut, but as I took a closer look as it started to round more (even with a straight wrench and no breaker bar) I saw something weird where it looks like the nut is fused to the washer which is fused to the flange? Both nuts on this flange were like this (these are two pictures of the same nut). Has anyone seen this before?

 

[MeefZah]

Isn't that a bolt that has the head on the opposite side of the flange; so the "nut" is actually a welded on component of the flange?

 

[Rednexus]

That bolt probably isn't going to come out. The threads appear to be mostly rust so they are likely fused into the nut.

Time to break out the sawzall with a metal cutting blade on it. You can cut the pipe at/around that flange and have the exhaust out in a couple of minutes.

 

[snowGX460]

Isn't that a bolt that has the head on the opposite side of the flange; so the "nut" is actually a welded on component of the flange?

The spring bolt from the header y-pipe collector was like that, where the nut is welded on, but it looked more like a square nut than a hex. This one the head of the bolt is on the top side of the flange, so there isn't really a ton of space to get tools up there. Granted i might just not have the necessary tools. I couldn't find my breaker bar (first time i've tried to use it since I moved) but there isn't much room for one. The head is on the top side of the flange in this pic:

 

[fjc-man]

Need to cherry those nuts, oxygen acetylene time.

 

[snowGX460]

That bolt probably isn't going to come out. The threads appear to be mostly rust so they are likely fused into the nut.

Time to break out the sawzall with a metal cutting blade on it. You can cut the pipe at/around that flange and have the exhaust out in a couple of minutes.

I was hoping to keep the OEM exhaust intact, just in case. Odds are it will sit in a box for years, though.

Looking closer at the service manual, it does only call out "bolts" for the tailpipe assembly instructions where some other connections call out "nuts," but I think the nuts are related to installations on studs. There are no pictures for the tailpipe assembly section of the manual. The exhaust diagram on the parts website doesn't show the bolts in the diagram, either.

After looking closer at the center pipe / muffler on the parts website, it almost looks like the rear flange has the bolts in the picture...:

So, it's definitely possible that I should have only been going after the bolts from the top. I did try with a short straight wrench that I could fit in there but couldn't get it to budge. My impact was too big.

 

[Wildcat Walker]

Weight Distribution would be recommended here. It transfers the weight to be shared by front and rear axles on a body on frame vehicle. I use an Andersen setup. you can swap it between trailers in about 20 minutes.

Im not worried so much about the suspension as I am the transmission. The boat, trailer, fuel, and gear, myself and the fuel load in the truck puts me right at the rated tow capacity of 6500 lbs with surge brakes on the trailer. Only hauling this about 9 miles max, but did make a 123 mile trip to bring it home.

Also, the tongue on the trailer is very long, without some sort of spreader bar, there would be no way to install what you're describing.

 

[Banandalorian]

I was hoping to keep the OEM exhaust intact, just in case. Odds are it will sit in a box for years, though.

The bolts you are struggling with are on top of that flange and likely stuck on there pretty good due to heat cycling. I think if you chop the rear resonator under the bumper off, you can snake everything out once you unbolt the main muffler. That's my plan sometime this week when I finally get around to installing my magnaflow if ADHD allows for it.
That rear resonator doesn't do much of anything detectable by the human ear so if you are keeping the stock exhaust in case you don't like the Magnaflow, it will be fine. If you want to keep the stock exhaust fully intact in case you want to return to stock, be prepared to fight with those bolts for a while.

 

[Roody]

I tried to install my Magnaflow exhaust today and ran into a snag. This picture is of the flange that connects the over-axle pipe to the resonator (or mid body muffler). I think I was the one that rounded the nut, but as I took a closer look as it started to round more (even with a straight wrench and no breaker bar) I saw something weird where it looks like the nut is fused to the washer which is fused to the flange? Both nuts on this flange were like this (these are two pictures of the same nut). Has anyone seen this before?


View attachment 3924961

View attachment 3924963

That's the exact bolt that had me at my breaking point (pun unintended), ended up cutting the exhaust off right after that joint due to frustration

 

[snowGX460]

That's the exact bolt that had me at my breaking point (pun unintended), ended up cutting the exhaust off right after that joint due to frustration

heh I feel a little bit better knowing this, so thank you. i only looked at the instructions / setup online before attempting and of course my thought was "two flanges and a couple of hangers? this should be pretty quick, even for me" (I don't do a ton of my own wrenching). I even went and bought an exhaust hanger tool

I do have a sawzall, though I might need to get a proper blade, if I do go down that route. i drowned it in PB blaster but that nut/bolt combo looks like they are mating for life. i was really hoping to avoid the chop so I was thinking of taking it to a shop, but now i'm wondering if they'll even get it out without cutting.

 

[Rednexus]

The exhaust can always be welded back together by a muffler shop if you do really want to save it (it's not a big deal). The OEM exhaust has a pretty limited resale value anyway, so the only reason to keep it functional is if you don't end up liking the Magnaflow overland.

One other option would be to cut off the offending nuts with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder (or a grinding wheel Dremel). You might be able to save the flange and just replace the old bolts/nuts with new in the future (if the flange itself is not rust welded together). But, it will take much longer (and you'll have a much higher chance of cutting something important by accident) relative to just slicing the exhaust off with a sawzall.

 

[Roody]

heh I feel a little bit better knowing this, so thank you. i only looked at the instructions / setup online before attempting and of course my thought was "two flanges and a couple of hangers? this should be pretty quick, even for me" (I don't do a ton of my own wrenching). I even went and bought an exhaust hanger tool

I do have a sawzall, though I might need to get a proper blade, if I do go down that route. i drowned it in PB blaster but that nut/bolt combo looks like they are mating for life. i was really hoping to avoid the chop so I was thinking of taking it to a shop, but now i'm wondering if they'll even get it out without cutting.

The exhaust can always be welded back together by a muffler shop if you do really want to save it (it's not a big deal). The OEM exhaust has a pretty limited resale value anyway, so the only reason to keep it functional is if you don't end up liking the Magnaflow overland.

One other option would be to cut off the offending nuts with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder (or a grinding wheel Dremel). You might be able to save the flange and just replace the old bolts/nuts with new in the future (if the flange itself is not rust welded together). But, it will take much longer (and you'll have a much higher chance of cutting something important by accident) relative to just slicing the exhaust off with a sawzall.

I didn't have a Sawzall and just cut the exhaust with a Dremel cut-off wheel (ok, it was about 20 of them), it was awful and I'll never do something like that again haha

 

[Banandalorian]

I believe it took roughly the same amount of time to chop through the exhaust pipe with a Sawzall as it did to type this sentence...maybe less

 

[snowGX460]

The exhaust can always be welded back together by a muffler shop if you do really want to save it (it's not a big deal). The OEM exhaust has a pretty limited resale value anyway, so the only reason to keep it functional is if you don't end up liking the Magnaflow overland.

it's mainly if i ever decide to "return to stock" and want to trade it in. but, thinking about it, i doubt they would blink at or see the re-welded flange or see that it's now nuts and bolts instead of the welded nut and bolts.

would you cut before (muffler side) or after (axle pipe side) of the flange (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx460-gxor-b-s-thread.1315456/post-15966190 )? i think the easy answer is muffler side heh...

 

[MeefZah]

I believe it took roughly the same amount of time to chop through the exhaust pipe with a Sawzall as it did to type this sentence...maybe less

And this is why catalytic convertor thieves can wreak so much havoc. They can do a parking lot full in 5 minutes.

 

[Rednexus]

it's mainly if i ever decide to "return to stock" and want to trade it in. but, thinking about it, i doubt they would blink at or see the re-welded flange or see that it's now nuts and bolts instead of the welded nut and bolts.

would you cut before (muffler side) or after (axle pipe side) of the flange (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx460-gxor-b-s-thread.1315456/post-15966190 )? i think the easy answer is muffler side heh...

I chopped mine at the muffler side. Another option is a hordless Hackzall, which is much easier into tight places than a Sazwall. With a short blade you could probably chop it right near the flange, making it easy to patch in the future with a short coupler section (possibly being clamped without any welding at all).